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  • disco stu
    Valued Member
    • Dec 2018
    • 3095
    • Wollongong

    Lift height-droop stops etc

    Hi all.

    I know this has been covered a lot, and I've read old threads etc, but I was just after some opinions on my car.

    The droop stops are looking like they are hard up on my car, so I was going to do the trim thing to them
    Link to photo https://photos.app.goo.gl/fxCQBocs6JtwwzwC8

    Front has winch bar but no winch installed currently. Putting all my weight on one side gives a couple of mm gap (at max) between the rubber and the stop (or whatever its called). Could it have heavier duty springs in it going by that?

    Seeing the fact they are hard up against the stops, I was wondering if this thing has been raised too high. I'm also guessing that I'll have to lower it a little to just get the stops out.

    Height from centre to the inner top of the flares
    Front: 580mm
    Rear: 560mm

    Should those heights be the same, or closer than they are? Based on putting my weight on the front of the car, winch isn't going to make much difference to the front static height.

    When lowering the front, do you have to take the weight off the suspension or just wind away on the bolt?

    The suspension is exactly how the car was when I bought it

    Would appreciate your thoughts on this

    Cheers, Stu
  • stumagoo
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2014
    • 2064
    • Perth WA S.O.R

    #2
    yes raised too high - in fact if its too much it preloads the torsion bar and makes the ride a lot firmer than it needs to be.... trim the stops and you want at least 5mm or gap once its settled Stock gap is 18mm but you are wanting it lifted so thats a number for reference only
    1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
    *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
    1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
    .

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    • nj swb
      Resident
      • Jun 2007
      • 7327
      • Adelaide

      #3
      Originally posted by stumagoo View Post
      yes raised too high - in fact if its too much it preloads the torsion bar and makes the ride a lot firmer than it needs to be.... trim the stops and you want at least 5mm or gap once its settled Stock gap is 18mm but you are wanting it lifted so thats a number for reference only
      To the best of my knowledge, vehicle modification laws in all states require at least 2 thirds of factory travel be retained, in both directions. So if the stock gap was 18mm, you should have at least 12mm gap to be technically compliant.

      When I had Shorty engineered, the engineer was quite happy for me to remove the droop stops altogether, as it's only the weight of control arms / hubs / wheels & tyres - the metal on metal noise would be harsh, but he wasn't worried if I didn't have any cushioning (I didn't do this). He suggested inserting some strips of hard rubber, which I prepared but never installed.

      He said that under no circumstances would he consider any modifications to the large bottom bump stop, as this needs to absorb the weight of the vehicle crashing down.
      NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

      Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

      Scorpro Explorer Box

      Comment

      • disco stu
        Valued Member
        • Dec 2018
        • 3095
        • Wollongong

        #4
        Thanks guys. I might get the front to the same height as the rear and check how much I need to trim then

        With winding the torsion bars, do you need to remove the weight off them/jack car first?

        Comment

        • disco stu
          Valued Member
          • Dec 2018
          • 3095
          • Wollongong

          #5
          Well, I had to wind the bolts out more than 7 full turns just get a small 0.5mm clearance between the rubber and the "stop". The explains why it was so darn stiff in the front. Hope this hasn't softened the springs being so loaded for who knows how long. Kind of fits with the other things I've seen on this car-over tightened bolts, snapped bolts etc

          Comment

          • stumagoo
            Valued Member
            • Jun 2014
            • 2064
            • Perth WA S.O.R

            #6
            Originally posted by disco stu View Post
            Well, I had to wind the bolts out more than 7 full turns just get a small 0.5mm clearance between the rubber and the "stop". The explains why it was so darn stiff in the front. Hope this hasn't softened the springs being so loaded for who knows how long. Kind of fits with the other things I've seen on this car-over tightened bolts, snapped bolts etc
            yes that would have made the ride very harsh--- it may settle and sag a little and if it does you can wind them up a little if you feel the need
            1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
            *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
            1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
            .

            Comment

            • disco stu
              Valued Member
              • Dec 2018
              • 3095
              • Wollongong

              #7
              Cheers Stu. I'm just not sure what they were trying to achieve with this-is not like it gave the car extra lift once that stop bottomed out, just made everything stiff

              Comment

              • stumagoo
                Valued Member
                • Jun 2014
                • 2064
                • Perth WA S.O.R

                #8
                Originally posted by disco stu View Post
                Cheers Stu. I'm just not sure what they were trying to achieve with this-is not like it gave the car extra lift once that stop bottomed out, just made everything stiff

                most likely they had no idea what was happening.... thinking they can get more lift by winding it up but without understanding there is a limiting factor
                -- also possible someone told them they would get x amount of lift by winding the bolt so many times so they did a factor of that expecting to get more --- I use 2 full turns to get about 1" lift so 7 would get me 3.5 or so from stock but without the other mods I have it would never work --- especially if it was already wound up to some degree
                1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
                .

                Comment

                • disco stu
                  Valued Member
                  • Dec 2018
                  • 3095
                  • Wollongong

                  #9
                  You must be right. Ham fisted not to check things

                  And now I've done the other side, it looks like both sides weren't even wound the same amount. Backed that out a lot less and it was lower. As it is now the drivers side bolt is backed out about 2 turns more than passenger for the same height
                  Last edited by disco stu; 23-02-20, 03:31 PM. Reason: Extra stuff

                  Comment

                  • stumagoo
                    Valued Member
                    • Jun 2014
                    • 2064
                    • Perth WA S.O.R

                    #10
                    as they get older one side can be softer than the other or it may have been indexed wrong --- pays to wind them off to the same point and restart then compare their heights
                    1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
                    *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
                    1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
                    .

                    Comment

                    • disco stu
                      Valued Member
                      • Dec 2018
                      • 3095
                      • Wollongong

                      #11
                      Cool, I'll check it it that way. Thanks

                      Comment

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