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Hi and a BIG thankyou to everyone that was involved in helping me to fix my problem, with 'nj swb' and 'disco stu' supplying the clues, cheers to All,
Ok i have had an hot start issue with my 'nh 6g72 petrol' since i have purchased almost a year and a half ago, symptoms were
starts fine cold, go for a drive say to shops, do shopping, come back within 5-20 mins and it would be a 50/50 chance that it would start, just endless cranking, wait half hour/or more car would start sometimes fine/sometimes reluctantly, the problem for MY car ended up being, fuel vaporisation/ vapour lock (brought to my attention by nj swb) caused by throttle body getting Far to hot, in MY case it was caused by coolant lines running through throttle body,
( my thinking is that it was a blockage in coolant parts) i know how much crud came out when doing heater core flush 4times,
Solution: do a bypass on coolant hoses ( suggested by disco stu) it is a Very simple fix that cost me 0$,
up until that stage i have already spent 8-9 hundred dollars on parts, diagnostics and scumbag mechanics who would sell you a part you Dont need and still have the issue (lesson learned the hard way),
A very simple repair to do takes not even an hour, tools were screwdriver and socket for hose clamps and a ten mill socket for air intake ( flex hose) clamp,
First unclipped air box top, unplugged maf, undid hose clamp on flex hose to throttle body, removed out of way,
Next disconnected coolant hoses from throttle body, made a decision on which hose fit best for bypass, for me i chose the bottom or hose closest to me to stay as it made for a better curve,
Next i decided that it would be easier if the heater hoses were out of the way so i unclamped and moved them aside( left them still attached to fire wall)
Next i removed top hose( furthest from me) and started to connect bottom hose i decided that if i cut a small section of hose away it would fit even neater so i cut a maybe 1inch section away bonus was i had a nice new clean end to work with,
Next reconnected heater hoses Then checked for leakage, was small leak, removed heater hoses retried with bypass hose connection, reconnected heater hoses, again tested for leaks (start car give some revs from throttle body) perfect,
Reconnected air box, plugged in maf, "yea ha " success, and did not cost 1 cent, best type of repairs,
Now once i get car tuned( which i now need to do because of all the things i tried b4) it will be what it is supposed to be, again "yea ha"
So anybody who may have a hot start issue, this Could be a solution for you,
If you have a hot start issue my suggestion is this,
Go start car get it up to operating temp and go feel how hot the throttle body is, if it is hot like i'm not leaving my hand there for to long hot
and not mildly warm That is where I would start, do bypass and i believe your problem will be fixed, it was for me
Anyway again a BIG thankyou to All members and guests but a special mention to both nj swb and disco stu for providing the clues, cheers.
Ok i have had an hot start issue with my 'nh 6g72 petrol' since i have purchased almost a year and a half ago, symptoms were
starts fine cold, go for a drive say to shops, do shopping, come back within 5-20 mins and it would be a 50/50 chance that it would start, just endless cranking, wait half hour/or more car would start sometimes fine/sometimes reluctantly, the problem for MY car ended up being, fuel vaporisation/ vapour lock (brought to my attention by nj swb) caused by throttle body getting Far to hot, in MY case it was caused by coolant lines running through throttle body,
( my thinking is that it was a blockage in coolant parts) i know how much crud came out when doing heater core flush 4times,
Solution: do a bypass on coolant hoses ( suggested by disco stu) it is a Very simple fix that cost me 0$,
up until that stage i have already spent 8-9 hundred dollars on parts, diagnostics and scumbag mechanics who would sell you a part you Dont need and still have the issue (lesson learned the hard way),
A very simple repair to do takes not even an hour, tools were screwdriver and socket for hose clamps and a ten mill socket for air intake ( flex hose) clamp,
First unclipped air box top, unplugged maf, undid hose clamp on flex hose to throttle body, removed out of way,
Next disconnected coolant hoses from throttle body, made a decision on which hose fit best for bypass, for me i chose the bottom or hose closest to me to stay as it made for a better curve,
Next i decided that it would be easier if the heater hoses were out of the way so i unclamped and moved them aside( left them still attached to fire wall)
Next i removed top hose( furthest from me) and started to connect bottom hose i decided that if i cut a small section of hose away it would fit even neater so i cut a maybe 1inch section away bonus was i had a nice new clean end to work with,
Next reconnected heater hoses Then checked for leakage, was small leak, removed heater hoses retried with bypass hose connection, reconnected heater hoses, again tested for leaks (start car give some revs from throttle body) perfect,
Reconnected air box, plugged in maf, "yea ha " success, and did not cost 1 cent, best type of repairs,
Now once i get car tuned( which i now need to do because of all the things i tried b4) it will be what it is supposed to be, again "yea ha"
So anybody who may have a hot start issue, this Could be a solution for you,
If you have a hot start issue my suggestion is this,
Go start car get it up to operating temp and go feel how hot the throttle body is, if it is hot like i'm not leaving my hand there for to long hot
and not mildly warm That is where I would start, do bypass and i believe your problem will be fixed, it was for me Anyway again a BIG thankyou to All members and guests but a special mention to both nj swb and disco stu for providing the clues, cheers.
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