Hi eucyblues. THanks for the egr mod info. I have been waiting for my ultragauge to arrive before I started experimenting with determining the ohm value of the series resistor so I can check that the resistor value works ok. I have had a look at the EGR valve control circuit to the ECU and it's all very simple, so this is a very easy DIY project for less than $1. I will install the resistor value that you have recommended and make sure it works on my 2014 NW.
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Originally posted by Jeffwatkins View PostI had Tonys first creation, than I bought the 4.7KOHM resistors from Jaycar. Had to remove it. Rough as guts shut down from both of them, check engine light and weird codes. With the plug and play model no problems at all. Scan gauge shows EGR 100% closed at all times.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by Jeffwatkins View PostI had Tonys first creation, than I bought the 4.7KOHM resistors from Jaycar. Had to remove it. Rough as guts shut down from both of them, check engine light and weird codes. With the plug and play model no problems at all. Scan gauge shows EGR 100% closed at all times.
The 4K7 resistor you used was probably too high.
In one of the egr threads for the Challengers they recommend a 3K2 resistor to be wired in series with the sensor.
It may not be the same for the Pajero but it would be closer to the correct resistance than 4K7 ohm.
The New plug and play SPV mods bypass the Intake Air Temp sensor completely.
A 4K7 resistor would be better suited to be used like this.
I used a 4K7 resistor to bypass the Intake air temp sensor on my old Holden Rodeo.
The torque App read a constant 4 degrees C, and the egr never opened.
On the NW Pajeros an EGR blanking plate can be used without throwing a check engine light.
I dont know for sure but my best guess is that because of the issues with the Intake manifold clogging, on NS and NT Pajeros, that mitsubishi reduced the amount of egr flow on the NW model.
The difference between the the new reduced flow and having a blanking plate might not be enough to set a check engine light.
The NX model may be the same as the NW, I dont think anyone has tried the blanking plate out on an NX and Posted the results.
With just a blanking plate in, the throttle plate will still partially close when the egr valve is opened.
Enough Air gets past the throttle plate for combustion when the egr is working normally, so with the egr blanked off there wont be any problems with lack of air for combustion even with the throttle plate partially closing.
If you aren't confident enough to cut your wiring in your car and solder in a resistor to disable the EGR, than the next cheapest option, the egr blanking plate, is a viable option on the NW Pajero and hopefully the NX.
Matt05 NP Pajero Platinum 3.2DID Auto
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Originally posted by MatthewP View PostThe first SPV mod was just a variable resistor that got wired in series with the Intake temp sensor in the MAF.
With just a blanking plate in, the throttle plate will still partially close when the egr valve is opened.
Enough Air gets past the throttle plate for combustion when the egr is working normally, so with the egr blanked off there wont be any problems with lack of air for combustion even with the throttle plate partially closing.
Matt
I think there is a benefit in having the Throttle Plate 100% open. Only a resistor mod or SPVi Mod will do this. (Not a blanking plate)
Also fitting the SPVi Mod had eliminated my negative boost figures I was getting with a blanking plate only,(although have never seen an error code) so my thinking is with the throttle plate fully open you are actually getting more air in. This has to be a good thing.
This is on my NT maybe this has changed with the NW on.
Just my observations
Cheers PaulSOLD - 2010 NT Pajero DiD Activ Mica Black - Safari Snorkel,T/Dog - 50mm Lovells rear, f/stone airbags, 50mm bilst/lov front. Ctek D250S. L/force 170's, Teko P3, C/Barrier, B/stone D697LT, GME TX4400, UltraGuage. ARB Sahara Bar. Bushskinz i/c, sump guards. Provent 200 & SPVi Mod. & d/son secondary fuel filter.
Check out my Photo Bucket;
http://s268.beta.photobucket.com/use...60064201786735
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Originally posted by MatthewP View PostThe first SPV mod was just a variable resistor that got wired in series with the Intake temp sensor in the MAF.
The 4K7 resistor you used was probably too high.
In one of the egr threads for the Challengers they recommend a 3K2 resistor to be wired in series with the sensor.
It may not be the same for the Pajero but it would be closer to the correct resistance than 4K7 ohm.
The New plug and play SPV mods bypass the Intake Air Temp sensor completely.
A 4K7 resistor would be better suited to be used like this.
I used a 4K7 resistor to bypass the Intake air temp sensor on my old Holden Rodeo.
The torque App read a constant 4 degrees C, and the egr never opened.
On the NW Pajeros an EGR blanking plate can be used without throwing a check engine light.
I dont know for sure but my best guess is that because of the issues with the Intake manifold clogging, on NS and NT Pajeros, that mitsubishi reduced the amount of egr flow on the NW model.
The difference between the the new reduced flow and having a blanking plate might not be enough to set a check engine light.
The NX model may be the same as the NW, I dont think anyone has tried the blanking plate out on an NX and Posted the results.
With just a blanking plate in, the throttle plate will still partially close when the egr valve is opened.
Enough Air gets past the throttle plate for combustion when the egr is working normally, so with the egr blanked off there wont be any problems with lack of air for combustion even with the throttle plate partially closing.
If you aren't confident enough to cut your wiring in your car and solder in a resistor to disable the EGR, than the next cheapest option, the egr blanking plate, is a viable option on the NW Pajero and hopefully the NX.
MattDicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Don't make assumptions on what people should or shouldn't be able to afford. Nor where or how they want to spend their $$$. I bought my car when the going was good but due to unforeseen circumstances can't afford $150 on a vehicle mod. We're not all cashed up DickoCheers, Hatto
2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.
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Originally posted by 0415discog View PostDon't make assumptions on what people should or shouldn't be able to afford. Nor where or how they want to spend their $$$. I bought my car when the going was good but due to unforeseen circumstances can't afford $150 on a vehicle mod. We're not all cashed up Dicko
Anyone who has just bought an NX would have paid out at least $50,000. I would assume that they are going to maintain their warranty. The SPV Mod at $150 (.3% of car price) is one of the cheapest and BEST mods you can do. I did say NX...
Cutting into the wiring of a brand new wire is not , to my way of thinking, a clever way of going about installing a long term mod that wont hurt your warranty. I am well aware of people not having much money and counting every dollar. That's why I only pointed out the NX. Be a great thing if you accidently cut the wrong wire or nicked another one while doing the mod.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by Dude View PostJust food for thought, when I bought the NW, I HAD 55k, now it's spent and I'm poor again. We tend to look at things as a sign of affluence but all they are is a relflection on what we had, not what have now
Todays society is all based on how much power and money you have. I find the biggest a/holes are normally the ones with plenty of money and the me, me , me attitude. AS YOU GET OLDER YOU START TO REALISE THAT MATERIAL THINGS LOSE THEIR IMPORTANCE.
At least you will get plenty of good years from the NW.
Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by PMK View PostIf enough air gets past the throttle plate partially closed why have I noticed an improvement in fuel economy since fitting the SPVi Mod ?
I think there is a benefit in having the Throttle Plate 100% open. Only a resistor mod or SPVi Mod will do this. (Not a blanking plate)
Also fitting the SPVi Mod had eliminated my negative boost figures I was getting with a blanking plate only,(although have never seen an error code) so my thinking is with the throttle plate fully open you are actually getting more air in. This has to be a good thing.
This is on my NT maybe this has changed with the NW on.
Just my observations
Cheers Paul
Any restrictions to air flow in and out of the engine have some effect on power.
I'm just saying that there will be more fresh air available for combustion with the blank plate in than with the egr functioning, even though the pressure in the intake manifold may be lower than with the EGR active, because the cylinder is sucking all its air past the partially closed throttle plate rather then easily breathing in egr gas and some fresh air.
There will be some increase in fuel economy because all the exhaust flow now goes through the turbo with the blanking plate.
I wonder If there is more of an increase in fuel economy with the resistor mod or SPV mod over just a blanking plate not just because the throttle plate is always open, but because of the tune that the ecu uses when the egr is disabled by the ecu, it may be a slightly different tune to when the egr is active.
I have nothing against the SPV plug in mod, it works just fine, It all comes down to what option you can afford to or are willing to do.
The SPV mod, doing the resistor mod yourself or using a blanking plate will all stop the egr gasses, which is the main goal, any fuel economy gains are a bonus.
Getting the ECU retuned for more power and the egr disabled is another option and is completely invisible, but it doesn't come cheap.
Matt05 NP Pajero Platinum 3.2DID Auto
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Originally posted by MatthewP View PostIm not saying that it isn't preferable to always have the throttle plate 100% open.
Any restrictions to air flow in and out of the engine have some effect on power.
I'm just saying that there will be more fresh air available for combustion with the blank plate in than with the egr functioning, even though the pressure in the intake manifold may be lower than with the EGR active, because the cylinder is sucking all its air past the partially closed throttle plate rather then easily breathing in egr gas and some fresh air.
There will be some increase in fuel economy because all the exhaust flow now goes through the turbo with the blanking plate.
I wonder If there is more of an increase in fuel economy with the resistor mod or SPV mod over just a blanking plate not just because the throttle plate is always open, but because of the tune that the ecu uses when the egr is disabled by the ecu, it may be a slightly different tune to when the egr is active.
I have nothing against the SPV plug in mod, it works just fine, It all comes down to what option you can afford to or are willing to do.
The SPV mod, doing the resistor mod yourself or using a blanking plate will all stop the egr gasses, which is the main goal, any fuel economy gains are a bonus.
Getting the ECU retuned for more power and the egr disabled is another option and is completely invisible, but it doesn't come cheap.
Matt
As I said - just my observations - I was just sharing my findings
Hey we're all on the same team here
Cheers. PaulLast edited by PMK; 12-05-15, 08:41 AM.SOLD - 2010 NT Pajero DiD Activ Mica Black - Safari Snorkel,T/Dog - 50mm Lovells rear, f/stone airbags, 50mm bilst/lov front. Ctek D250S. L/force 170's, Teko P3, C/Barrier, B/stone D697LT, GME TX4400, UltraGuage. ARB Sahara Bar. Bushskinz i/c, sump guards. Provent 200 & SPVi Mod. & d/son secondary fuel filter.
Check out my Photo Bucket;
http://s268.beta.photobucket.com/use...60064201786735
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