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  • 1533rl
    Senior Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 274
    • armadale wa

    Carpet & glue

    Robbo, I used a marine carpet for my first one, and yes it was difficult to fold around the corners. For the next one, I bought "automotive carpet" from Bunnings, quite lightweight and flexible (no stiff backing) but appears to be wearing well after a lot of use. Cannot remember the price, but substantially cheaper than the stiffer/backed marine carpet.
    For both carpets I have used woodworking PVA glue. Just the same glue I used on the timber storage unit. It is water based, dries clear, and I just glued a side at a time with a weighted panel over the top overnight. Obviously I was not in a hurry !!! Just ran wiggly lines of glue on the wood surface, no need to coat entire piece of wood, extra emphasis at the edges though.
    Cheers
    Peter

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    • sharkcaver
      "2000"+ Valued Contributor
      • May 2009
      • 6270
      • Perth

      Originally posted by RobboPajero View Post
      Gday All

      Be interested to hear what you're using, where you get it from and approx. cost (also what adhesive you use).

      Many thanks

      Robbo

      I just used spray adhesive. I used 3M stuff, but I didn't pay for it. I suggest Any spray contact adhesive will be sufficient. FYI, I just used normal carpet. I don't think rubber backed stuff is any better, in fact it may be worse if trying to follow a contour.

      Shane.
      MY16 NX GLX5 with just a few bits added. MY14 D-max spacecab, also with a few bits added.

      My Journeys

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      • MTB
        Member
        • Jan 2010
        • 136
        • Brisbane North

        Automotive Carpet

        I just used automotive carpet that I got from an automotive trimmer. It was a little more expensive than the stuff from Bunnings but I had a better choice and could colour match easier. The carpet and glue cost about the $150 from memory, but I have tried my best to block that bit out.

        The fellow that I purchased from said that the main difference between Automotive and Marine was that Marine is made with the intention of it being wet a lot, Automotive is not. Makes sense I guess. I also sprayed mine with a scotchguard water repilant that I had left over, to assist with any spills.

        I found the carpet easy to bend around corners and trim to size. I used a contact adhesive gel and covered the whole drawer with it (worked in manageable sections) and laid the carpet on it whilst it was wet. Then I used an old 4 inch paint roller to push the carpet into the glue. This was recommended to me by the auto trimmer. Works a treat and has shown no sign of coming away from the ply board.

        Any bits that were missed with the contact, or needed extra sticking power, I used a liquid nails type glue. Especially handy for edges.

        You will find that the contact gel is overpowering in confined spaces, so make sure that you have good ventilation.

        cheers, Mark
        2003 NP GLX 3.8 V6 Auto (01/10), factory alloy bar, cargo barrier (03/10), sump & tranny guards (04/10), rock sliders, duel batts and SD Lovells/Billes combo with poly's and 40L Engel (08/10) - Cape York (09/11)

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        • apsilon
          Valued Member
          • Feb 2008
          • 2022
          • Hills District NSW

          IIRC I used the thinnest carpet Clark Rubber had. The thinner it is the easier it is to get it to conform to bends. You don't want to use anything that's backed with felt or rubber.

          Glue was a spray on from Bunnings. Fueller brand or something similar. I also used a staple gun around the edges underneath for extra strength and to help while the glue dried.
          MY09 NT Pajero X shortie diesel
          Mods - No longer fit in my sig so see here

          Comment

          • RobboPajero
            Member
            • Jan 2008
            • 108

            Rear Storage

            Great, many thanks for the replies fellas, much appreciated.

            I'll see how I go next weekend and try and get a few pics when I'm done.

            Cheers
            Robbo

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            • bajabus
              Member
              • Nov 2012
              • 51
              • ACT

              Originally posted by apsilon View Post
              Tie downs are done. Used mostly what I had on hand so it's a bit of a mish mash but it seems to work. I can't budge it once it's secured.



              Other side is similar but less turn buckles. As I said I was using what I had on hand and the screw on loops holding the top turn buckles I didn't have enough big ones but also had a few small ones so thought I may as well use two. Other side I had enough of the large ones so it's only a single turn buckle. Down to the stock tie down point. At the rear it's a bit hard to see but I have a short strap going from the frame of the storage unit down to the seat bracket. On the SWB if you pull the palstic cover off the bracket it conveniently has some holes in that I was able to hook into and then run a strap up.

              I'm happy with it at this point so we'll see how it goes offroad as I'm away for an overnighter Tues and Wed.
              How robust is the connect-it setup when lt is loaded up and your're on the trails. Did you have a fridge on it?
              Im considering a similar setup but the connectors dont seem up to the job of sustained offroad use.
              B
              -----------------------------------
              2014 NW GLXR

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              • apsilon
                Valued Member
                • Feb 2008
                • 2022
                • Hills District NSW

                They were stronger than I expected. Yes I had a fridge on one side however I did only do day trips and camping. Touring where you may encounter long stretches of corrugations who knows. Achieved what I needed at the time.
                MY09 NT Pajero X shortie diesel
                Mods - No longer fit in my sig so see here

                Comment

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