Long term plans

[TC.Barky]

Hey guys,
My plan for this car originally was to have this for my first knock-around 4WD and then upgrade to a near-new 4WD in probably around two years from now. I've been doing some thinking, and while that still has appeal for me I'm thinking that it would probably be a better long-term financial choice to hang on to this car for 5-10 years instead. Before I commit to this by adding mods that aren't necessities (better tires, front air locker, winch etc) I guess I need to know rough costs to upkeep the vehicle over that time to calculate which is the best choice. It's currently on 195,000kms, manual and the engine is still quite lively. I do around 10-20k kms per year. Only issues currently (that I am aware of) are I think a new clutch in the near future and quite likely new synchros within the next 5 years. Aside from that I'm absolutely in love with it. Is there anything that I can expect to shit itself within the next couple years? How well do you think it will age over the next decade? (probably closer to 5 years than 10 before I turf it) will be more than 20 years old and at about 340-400k kms by then. I still see some gen1s in great condition which gives me hope that the body/chassis will age well. Obviously anticipating a rebuild in there at some point.

[Downunder35m]

For proper off road driving I would stick to the oldie.
The newer models have too much electronics and other gadgets that might be nice but cause too much trouble when going bush.
And keep in mind the tougher restriction for newer cars in terms of modifications!
Spare parts are an issu too, a little dent on your current car gets a polish ad maybe some new paint, but for a new model you look a lot of money to replace the panels as they are not as strong.

[TC.Barky]

A mate of mine mentioned in passing something along the lines of a compression test to see how the engine was faring and how much life it has left in it. Does this exist? Never heard of it before then.

For proper off road driving I would stick to the oldie.
The newer models have too much electronics and other gadgets that might be nice but cause too much trouble when going bush.
And keep in mind the tougher restriction for newer cars in terms of modifications!
Spare parts are an issu too, a little dent on your current car gets a polish ad maybe some new paint, but for a new model you look a lot of money to replace the panels as they are not as strong.

Yeah very true. Can't argue the capability and practicality of the NL offroad. With a front locker I reckon it'd be fair unstoppable.

[Downunder35m]

Sometimes I miss the additional clearance that you get on the older Patrols, but with the new regulations I guess we are better off in the long run
And I never needed locker even in very rocky terrain the car performs well.
So far I was able to manage without it, but on the other side I try to avoid wrecking my rig too

[TC.Barky]

Sometimes I miss the additional clearance that you get on the older Patrols, but with the new regulations I guess we are better off in the long run
And I never needed locker even in very rocky terrain the car performs well.
So far I was able to manage without it, but on the other side I try to avoid wrecking my rig too

Yeah I've never had any need for a locker but had a trip last weekend where I could have used one a few times. and if I keep this car instead of getting a newer one I'll be able to afford one!

[ARGS]

Mate I've found the rear locker and plenty of flex is fine for me and I certainly don't shy away from the tough stuff (mates have Pootrols with 35s etc). It's kinda like as long as the rear wheels are on the ground pushing the fronts do their little bit and steer lol

[TC.Barky]

Mate I've found the rear locker and plenty of flex is fine for me and I certainly don't shy away from the tough stuff (mates have Pootrols with 35s etc). It's kinda like as long as the rear wheels are on the ground pushing the fronts do their little bit and steer lol

Yeah if I had a factory locker I'd prob be happy with just that but the lsd is great for most situations so not much point pulling that out for a locker and leaving the front open. Much prefer to get a locker on the front and keep the lsd on the back to fix the problem of no flex for situations like these that I found myself in on the weekend (see attached). Would've been able to power through with a front locker but died in the arse as soon as the front lifted (back was scrabbling).

Also ARGS, a long ranger tank is something I'd consider fitting in the future if I hang onto it, notice you have one fitted per your sig. Does the 140L fit fairly snug or does it protrude?

[Downunder35m]

Don't really know what type of diffs I got apart from being stock standard, but I never had problems with a lift off like yours.
Down to LLC and out of the hole.
But in terms of traction I often prefer the "snow gear".

One thing I miss in your pic is the winch, about time you put one on your rig

[Pauly Faulkner]

A mate of mine mentioned in passing something along the lines of a compression test to see how the engine was faring and how much life it has left in it. Does this exist? Never heard of it before then..

A compression and leak down test can let you know what sort of condition the valves and rings are in but it won't tell you everything you need to know but is a good start.
I've seen them run upwards of 500k/km's, the last body lift i did was for a 520,000k NH and was in great condition apart from being a little sluggish, slight surface rusting in the foot well body bolt cavities from not drying the carpet properly after driving in the drink and in need of a new clutch.
I bought a CI 4Terrain clutch for mine and i'm most impressed with it so far, i bought it for $300 when CI had a manufactuers special going not long ago.

[TC.Barky]

A compression and leak down test can let you know what sort of condition the valves and rings are in but it won't tell you everything you need to know but is a good start.
I've seen them run upwards of 500k/km's, the last body lift i did was for a 520,000k NH and was in great condition apart from being a little sluggish, slight surface rusting in the foot well body bolt cavities from not drying the carpet properly after driving in the drink and in need of a new clutch.
I bought a CI 4Terrain clutch for mine and i'm most impressed with it so far, i bought it for $300 when CI had a manufactuers special going not long ago.

Any idea of the top of your head what that should cost? And yeah, don't even start me on taking on water. Put the door seals to the test last weekend, long story short the carpet is lifted all through my car with fans everywhere

[TC.Barky]

Don't really know what type of diffs I got apart from being stock standard, but I never had problems with a lift off like yours.
Down to LLC and out of the hole.
But in terms of traction I often prefer the "snow gear".

One thing I miss in your pic is the winch, about time you put one on your rig

Assuming stock unless you have a switch in the cabin for a rear diff lock you'll have an lsd on the rear and open on the front. Snow gear I imagine is just like hold on other cars so just locking out first gear - useful as you'll be less likely to spin the wheels in 2nd than in 1st. Yeah usually wouldn't be a problem but rear was scrabbling and no drive to the wheel on the ground in the front (open diff) so it couldn't pull itself up.

And if I keep it, a winch is definitely on the shopping list

[Pauly Faulkner]

pain in the ass isn't it, A good way to prevent lingering smell i've found is after you air dry for the day: sprinkle bi carb soda everywhere to absorb any smells then vacuum

Depends where you go, i wouldn't charge any more than $120 for 3.5ltr(spark plug position) and $80 for 3ltr but a friend of mine was charged over $200 on a magna.

[Downunder35m]

I might have a solution for your water problem:
Fix it !!! Jokes aside I want to improve my seaworthiness a bit more.
Water crossings up to the window line is no problem as long as I don't start floating.
But a few minutes "parked" in water higher than floor level and it comes in.
Financials permitting I would like to rip the carpet and all plastic out,
clean the floors,
put a layer of think poly paint over all,
cover all metal with bitumen backed sound proofing
and finally put it all back together.
One thing I already noticed as a trouble spot are the holes where cables go through the body, most of them have rubber grommets, but are not water tight.
Same for some unused screw holes that go into the body cavities, from there the water finds the way up.

Don't get me wrong, a piece of tarp over the bull bar and deep crossings are no problem in the world, but maybe I'm not the only one that got stuck in a deep mud hole just to notice after winching out that the carpet is soaked and stinky
Well, and why the hell would I avaiod a bit of mud if I drive a fully equipped Pajero??? ROFL

[TC.Barky]

pain in the ass isn't it, A good way to prevent lingering smell i've found is after you air dry for the day: sprinkle bi carb soda everywhere to absorb any smells then vacuum

Depends where you go, i wouldn't charge any more than $120 for 3.5ltr(spark plug position) and $80 for 3ltr but a friend of mine was charged over $200 on a magna.

Getting 200,000km major service done sometime soon, reckon it'd be easier to get it done at the same time?

Bi carb soda is a great idea. It's ALMOST dry now - been air drying it all day and night since we got back heh. Once it's dry I was just going to stick some nil-odor in there but bi carb sounds pretty clever. Getting it professionally cleaned and detailed in the next couple weeks (found a voucher for a 400 dollar full clean for 80 bucks) so hopefully that'll fix any remaining smells those poor bastards that have to clean my car - feel sorry for them!

[my.paj]

On the door seal thing I have found that the bottom of rear door seals are squashed and let water into mine, ( kids where saying we are sinking)
Rick