2UZFE swap NG pajero

[Imajin14]

The auto box I purchased is a750f from a 5 speed Prado which is the same gearbox used in the 100 series land cruiser with the 2uzfe, torque converter apparently is all the same aswell. I'll be using the torque converter out of the gearbox that's bolted upto to the 3uzfe. From what I can see, the 120 series Prado doesn't have tip Tronic, the newer 150 series Prado where they have P R N D then tiptronic + and -. The 120 Prado still the P R N D 4 3 2 L which is all controlled by cable as I'm aware.

I purchased the auto box today with 110,000kms from a 5 speed Prado with both front and rear tail shafts and got the shifter assembly and centre console trim with the face aswell and all the gear knobs just incase. Just need to source a auto cable that goes from shifter to the gearbox which is hard to find cause every wrecker chops the cable off. I'll stick to using all the Toyota stuff so it works all as one unit the a750 is almost the same as a a340 series just has an extra gear apparently they share the same torque converter. The sc430 uses a rwd a650e same torque converter aswell

Engine and gearbox will be controlled by a haltech unit in one.

I'll be installing manual locking hubs on the front hubs and the transfer lock will be wired upto a button when I want to switch it to 4wd. The selector is still there for H N L high and low which will either be modified to fit in the stock Pajero hole or just cut a new hole to slide the selector in through there. 4wd high and low will be wired up to the dash still so I know when I'm using 4wd. I'm going to do this properly like it came with it from factory haha try and use all the stock unit from the Pajero the Speedo cable is another story again, which I should have something sorted for that.

[Imajin14]

You can see the difference.

120 series still has selector for high and low and the old set up for selecting the gear

150 series is all electronic with high low and gear selection

I saw the Pajero tip Tronic set up on the shifter which is same set up as the 150 series prado.

The 120 series shifter assembly had no electronics inside was just controlled by cable that goes side up and down all through the gears

Forgot to mention I have the pedal assembly aswell for the electric throttle body

[Imajin14]

Anyone interested in the old engine and gearbox don't really want to part it out but if worse comes to worse I will part it just name a price if not then I don't know what else to do with it but throw it out

Another update i ordered a gss342 Walbro 255
With a new fuel filter I'll install it next week with photos.

Anyone here have a spare Ng cluster V6 Auto Mines noisey sounds like rice grains are being shaking up in there I've greased up the Speedo cable still no good I'm 99% sure it's coming from inside the cluster

[Imajin14]

Hey anyone know where I can purchase a upgraded Ng Pajero master cylinder with a 1inch bore I'm planning to upgrade the brakes to the 2nd gen

[Imajin14]

Quick update

Got 2nd hand NJ 2 pot calipers going to rebuild them
Have slotted rotors and performance brake pads ordered

I'll be installing a Camry/Avalon brake master cylinder for the added brake Performance to match the hatch

Have ordered new rear shoes and new wheel cylinders to go in

Haltech ecu has been purchased

Purchased manual locking hubs for the front since I'll be removing the vacuum assisted hubs.

The car will be running full time 4wd (in other terms the car will be AWD) due to the prados 5 speed gearbox controlled by a torsen centre diff, it will only lock the transfer when selecting high or low, it does have a diff lock button which will be wired to the dash of the Pajero so that will be all sorted

Only thing I'm waiting to start pulling everything out from the Pajero is the engine

Hoping to get somewhere around 200kw mark at the wheels and will be more fuel efficient than the old V6 3.0 and way more reliable and such a better 4wd to drive around. This car will be kept for a very long time and only 4wd it will see is the beach. If all goes well it will be a flat 14 second quarter mile forby haha

My only concern is the strength of the front and rear diff/axles I'm pretty sure it should be able to handle it, it's not like be launching the car or dumping clutches since it's auto. The diesel should be pushing similar torque figures through the diffs so I don't see why it would be a concern

[geopaj]

Why manual locking hubs if your going with a full time 4wd setup?

Are you able to use solid flanges like Gen 2s use? - which would be stronger.

[Imajin14]

Why manual locking hubs if your going with a full time 4wd setup?

Are you able to use solid flanges like Gen 2s use? - which would be stronger.

Manual locking hubs So i can have the front wheels locked at all time and not free wheeling the front hubs.
The prados transfer case when selected in neutral range is controlled by a torsen diff which distributes torque accordingly which is similar to an AWD system but when you select high or low range the transfer locks via a centre diff lock button and become a true 4wd. locking the front hubs will make use of the AWD system when daily driving. If that makes sense. Correct me if I'm wrong

Which flanges sorry?

[pharb]

Drive flanges -
Flattish, circular plates. Transmit drive from driveshaft that projects through hub, to the hub face. Fitted to all Pajero and Triton pre NM or ML that weren't fitted with manual or auto FWH, mainly those with super select.

Removed when fitting manual FWH to Gen 2 Pajeros.

[Imajin14]

Drive flanges -
Flattish, circular plates. Transmit drive from driveshaft that projects through hub, to the hub face. Fitted to all Pajero and Triton pre NM or ML that weren't fitted with manual or auto FWH, mainly those with super select.

Removed when fitting manual FWH to Gen 2 Pajeros.

Yeah I searched it up now, I'll stick with the manual locking hubs and keep them locked at all the times I already purchased good quality locking hubs so I'll make use of them for now.

Does anyone have info on how reliable the front and rear diffs are when taken good care of? And what other cars they came out of?

[geopaj]

Yeah I searched it up now, I'll stick with the manual locking hubs and keep them locked at all the times I already purchased good quality locking hubs so I'll make use of them for now.

That was exactly my point... why pay for manual locking hubs (also known as free wheel hubs) when you will need to keep them locked permanently AND they will not be as strong as using solid flanges. It seems to be a loose/loose situation??

According to this thread, it would appear that Gen 1 & Gen 2 free wheel hubs can be fitted across both (and therefore solid flanges) https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=28160

What brand hubs did you buy? Back in the day, the genuine MM Aisin hubs of Tritons were the strongest (which is the same brand as used OEM by Toyota). We managed to break a few aftermarket ones with factory engines in standard tune!

Anyway, best wishes with the build, it sounds awesome and I look forward to reading further updates

[Imajin14]

If I knew I would've went the solid plate but I already have the hubs here and they cost abit. The brand is called ROK and they feel very solid and feel well built.

I heard the Camry/Avalon brake master cylinder is a direct bolt on and is 1" bore, does anyone have any info on this and which model precisely?

Once I've got all the brakes here I'll be doing a full replacement of the rear drums/shoes/cylinder. Rebuild Front brake calipers slotted rotors and performance pads from the nj pajero and repack of wheel bearings with the hubs installed. Once I do the brakes I'll bring the old master cylinder to wreckers and compare it to all the Camry models to see which one exactly lines up

I've got replacement parts for every bushing on the suspension. A 2 inch lift kit. New steering components which I'll be doing once the engine swap is complete and last but not least mate of mine will be doing a respray to get it looking show room condition Inc repainting the front bullbar. And the car is complete

im trying to upload photos of the car and everything else but its keeps saying failed.

[Imajin14]

Anyone know what I'll need to repack the wheel bearing. As in parts Ive done plenty of LandCruisers. Is there a inner oil seal then locking plate? Haven't done a 1st gen Pajero yet

[NJV6]

There is a seal on the inner size of the stub axle and that’s all other than the normal inner and outer wheel bearings and seal on the hub.

I’ve come into this conversation a bit late but seems a cool project, the 3uz is a nice motor. I know of a couple done using the 4 speed mitsi auto which is all bolt up stuff.

[Imajin14]

Is that using the 3uzfe or the 1uzfe?

Anyone know why I can't upload photos? Keeps saying upload failed

[nj swb]

Is that using the 3uzfe or the 1uzfe?

Anyone know why I can't upload photos? Keeps saying upload failed

Best guess is either file format or image size.

I recommend ensuring the picture is a jpeg, no larger than 1200 x 900 pixels. I suspect the forum software does weird things to png files.