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Generation 3 Pajero NM - NP Models 2000 - 2006

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  #1  
Old 19-01-20
Richyd Richyd is online now
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Default Replacing shocks

Hey guys.
I know there is plenty of info on here about replacing the shocks-i have already found a 'how to' which has excellent info (https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ension+install ).

I recently had the tyres replaced and whilst there was told that a shock at the front was leaking oil. I'm not sure of the vehicle history, so thought replacing all shocks and springs is probably a good idea. The car is mostly driven on bitumen or some light off roading/beach driving-nothing too strenuous.

I found these on eBay -with a discount the price would be approx $560 for the set of 4, which seemed reasonable to me.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233234414218

I was just wondering if anyone had any experience with these? Or are there better ones that are reasonably priced?

These also come pre-assembled, so I assume I would not need a spring compressor as it's already done?

Finally, as far as I know the suspension on the car currently is standard- will the eBay ones above suit my car?

Again, thanks for your help!
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Old 20-01-20
Richyd Richyd is online now
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sorry guys, I thought that was cheap for name brand gear-i thought it was entire set but then read the listing and it's just the front.

Maybe these ones;
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F232962845455

Or these:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F252430456511

The first set is quite a lot more expensive. Although the springs come as pre-assembled-so I assume I wouldn't need a spring compressor.

The second set is cheaper (could bring it down to $490).
Although I would need spring compressors. I haven't heard of ultraking brand before where as the other brand is webco. Both sets have king springs which are meant to be good?

Any thoughts?
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  #3  
Old 20-01-20
dc80 dc80 is offline
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I'd recommend against Webco shocks, I have heard more bad things than good about these, bad being early failures (after months, not years). Never heard of Ultra Kings, I'd be very hesitant to purchase those. Stick with a name brand if you can afford it. I got a good deal for Lovells/Bilsteins through Superspare Ebay, I think I paid $1180 all up for the kit including pre assembled fronts.

If that's out of your budget maybe consider looking into Raw $787 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Raw-4x4-...wAAOSw2xZd6Sc1) or better yet KYBs $765 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MITSUBIS...EAAOxyaURTiB62).

I'm sure other members will weigh in with some good advice. Good luck!
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Old 20-01-20
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Hi Richyd,

20 year old Gen 3 with maybe 300,000+kms on the odometer, the factory suspension is sure to be sagged particularly if it has carried some load or towed.

Unfortunately it is just not the cost of replacement coils and shockers, chances are the following will also need replacement, lower and upper rear insulators, front strut top mounts, control arm bushes and wheel alignment adjusters.

Other potential problem you have is if you increase the ride height then the driveshaft joints will be running in a different position so this could result in noisy driveshafts and accelerated wear.

Sorry for the reality check but better to know in advance before starting to spend money.

OJ.
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Old 20-01-20
Richyd Richyd is online now
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Thanks dc80. The KYBs are affordable and a good brand, so that makes sense!

Old jack- thanks very much. I can find all of those things except the wheel alignment adjusters- where and what are these?

The lower and upper rear insulators, front strut top mounts all look like a fairly easy replace- especially if done at the same time as the shocks etc . Are the control arm bushes hard to change over?

Why would the height increase cause issues with the drive shaft? Is there a way to overcome it?
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Old 20-01-20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richyd View Post
Thanks dc80. The KYBs are affordable and a good brand, so that makes sense!

Old jack- thanks very much. I can find all of those things except the wheel alignment adjusters- where and what are these?

The lower and upper rear insulators, front strut top mounts all look like a fairly easy replace- especially if done at the same time as the shocks etc . Are the control arm bushes hard to change over?

Why would the height increase cause issues with the drive shaft? Is there a way to overcome it?
Link to online Workshop Manual for Gen 3.
http://www.pajero4x4.ru/piii/

Front wheel alignment adjusters for camber and castor are on the forward and rear attachment points of the lower control arms.

Rear wheel alignment camber adjusters are on the inboard pivots of the lower suspension arms just each side of the diff and toe adjusters are on the end of the toe control arms.

The eccentric wheel alignment adjuster bolts can seize in the bushes, if they cannot be removed then the adjuster bolts need to be cut through so the suspension arms can be removed and then the bushes pressed out and replaced.

Bushes normally require a hydraulic press to change.

The driveshafts will be used to running at a certain angle so if you change the ride height you change the angle that the driveshafts operate at. This can cause noise and accelerated wear.

Front preassembled struts include new top mounts so these are the best option to use.
Rear suspension coil insulators are easy to change at the same time as the coils. Lowers wear quickly so Polytuff urethane are best, upper wear much slower so is best to use rubber as these are quiter.

King coils have the biggest selection for standard and raised heights as well as different axle loads. $180 to $240 a pair is price range. King make coils for many other aftermarket brands that sell for much higher prices.

Selecting the correct coils for the independant front and rear suspension is important, you need to know what ride heights and weight carrying capacity you want to achieve both unloaded and loaded. Personal preference for ride comfort vs handling vs suspension articulation also needs to be considered.
One persons perfect suspension is another's worst nightmare as there is no one size fits all perfect solution. Every suspension is a compromise.

Shockers and struts, Monroe TDT or KYB are reasonable for the price, Oztec Outback are a step up and are an excellent mid range product with good warranty. All the big name 4wd brands, you are paying a premium for the name, for average and in some cases below average products. Bilstein are a performance product at a premium price, these ride firm and have a short warranty. Koni are a good heavy duty expedition quality product but $$$.

OJ.
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Old 21-01-20
dc80 dc80 is offline
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Any suggestions on preventative maintenance on the adjuster bolts OJ? My NX has only done 52,000kms and bolts are still good. Iíve read some members recommend removing and greasing but Iím worried Iíll stuff up my alignment doing so. Can I just regularly give it a soaking of Lanox or something similar?
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Old 21-01-20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc80 View Post
Any suggestions on preventative maintenance on the adjuster bolts OJ? My NX has only done 52,000kms and bolts are still good. I’ve read some members recommend removing and greasing but I’m worried I’ll stuff up my alignment doing so. Can I just regularly give it a soaking of Lanox or something similar?
It is the adjuster bolt shaft that corrodes to the suspension bush metal sleeve so external spraying will have little effect on a seized adjuster as you are relying on capillary action to transfer the lubricant through to the area between the bolt shaft and the bush sleeve. Once an adjuster in seized, the clearance gap between the bolt shaft and the bush sleeve is taken up with rust. On adjuster that have not seized regular spraying with lubricant over time is much better than nothing, after all the water from wet roads finds its way between the bush sleeve and bolt shaft. Ideally the bolts should be removed and greased or coated with anti seize but you will lose the wheel alignment.

Note you cannot just remove the rear adjuster bolts without supporting the weight of the vehicle and restraining the suspension components that are under the load of the coils on the rear suspension. The front adjusters on the lower control arm can be done one at a time as long as the vehicle weight is not on the suspension and the wheel is removed.

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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  #9  
Old 21-01-20
dc80 dc80 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
It is the adjuster bolt shaft that corrodes to the suspension bush metal sleeve so external spraying will have little effect on a seized adjuster as you are relying on capillary action to transfer the lubricant through to the area between the bolt shaft and the bush sleeve. Once an adjuster in seized, the clearance gap between the bolt shaft and the bush sleeve is taken up with rust. On adjuster that have not seized regular spraying with lubricant over time is much better than nothing, after all the water from wet roads finds its way between the bush sleeve and bolt shaft. Ideally the bolts should be removed and greased or coated with anti seize but you will lose the wheel alignment.

Note you cannot just remove the rear adjuster bolts without supporting the weight of the vehicle and restraining the suspension components that are under the load of the coils on the rear suspension. The front adjusters on the lower control arm can be done one at a time as long as the vehicle weight is not on the suspension and the wheel is removed.

OJ.
Thanks OJ for the comprehensive reply as usual. Sounds like a job to do just before my next wheel alignment.
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  #10  
Old 21-01-20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dc80 View Post
Thanks OJ for the comprehensive reply as usual. Sounds like a job to do just before my next wheel alignment.
The ideal is to remove them and liberally coat with anti seize. As a minimum, I would loosen the nut, spray the bolt/adjuster with lubricant, and rotate the bolt/adjuster through it’s range of movement several times (before each wheel alignment)
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