Hi. I was having a look at my transmission fluid today and think it needs changing. It appears a little off colour but not bad yet. The fluid has never been changed and has done 60 000 km. I see that there is a drain plug on the gearbox. Will all the fluid come out or will I have to flush it somehow. Also do I have to use the dealer oil as I see that other guys have been using Castrol TQ M-ST. Any info on doing an oil change on the gearbox will be appreciated.
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Last edited by RovingTech; 17-08-08, 10:19 PM.2005 NP Exceed DiD .TJM Alloy Bull Bar. Dual Battery
TX3440 UHF. Airtec Snorkel and false floor. Intercooler and sump guard.Tags: None
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Here ya go, hope this helps. Its simple and pretty straight forward I hope.
1. Disconnect the hose which
connects the transmission and the oil cooler (inside the
radiator). Place a container under the hose to collect the
discharge.
CAUTION
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is
started. If all the transmission fluid has drained out before
then, the engine should be stopped at that point.
2. Start the engine and let the transmission fluid drain out.
(Running conditions: "N" range with engine idling.)
Discharge volume: Approximately 4.0 dm3 (4.2 quarts)
3. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the transmission
case to drain the transmission fluid.
Discharge volume: Approximately 2.0 dm3 (2.1 quarts)
4. Install the drain plug with a new gasket, and tighten it to the
specified torque.
Tightening torque: 39 ? 5 N?m (29 ? 3 ft-lb)
5. Add new transmission fluid (DIAMOND ATF SP III or
equivalent) through the oil filter tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 6.0 dm3 (6.3 quarts)
6. Repeat the procedure in Step 2. (to pump out the rest of the
contaminated transmission fluid)
7. Add new transmission fluid (DIAMOND ATF SP III or
equivalent) through the oil filler tube.
Adding volume: Approximately 4.0 dm3 (4.2 quarts)
NOTE: Check for contamination or a burnt odor. If the
transmission fluid is still contaminated or burnt, repeat Steps 6
and 7 before proceeding to Step 8.
8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step 1
above, and firmly replace the dipstick.
9. Start the engine and run it at idle for one to two minutes.
10.Move the selector lever through all positions, and then move
it to the "N" position.
11.Check that the transmission fluid level is at the "COLD"
mark on the dipstick. If the level is less than this, add
transmission fluid.
12.Drive the vehicle until the transmission fluid temperature
rises to the normal operating temperature [70 - 80?C (158 -
176?F)], and then check the transmission fluid level again.
The transmission fluid level must be at the "HOT" mark.
NOTE: The "COLD" level is for reference only; the "HOT"
level should be regarded as the standard level.
NOTE: If it takes some amount of time until the transmission
fluid reaches its normal operating temperature [70 - 80 ?C
(158 - 176?F)]
13.When the transmission fluid is less than the specified level,
add transmission fluid.
When the transmission fluid is greater than the specified
level, drain the excess fluid through the drain plug to adjust
the transmission fluid to the specified level.
14.Firmly insert the dipstick into the oil filler tube.Last edited by icysyrup; 18-08-08, 12:12 AM.03 NP, 34" tires, Fully skiplated, Custom rocksliders, custom winch mount, OME HD springs/shocks, and Aeroflow exhaust, Locked Front and Rear.
Happiness is like peeing your pants, everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.
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You will need about 12-14L of oil to do a proper flush.
Castrol TQ M-ST or MM Auto fluid (you may find the MM stuff is about the same price or cheaper) . The 20L drum is more $$ than 4L bottles (go figure).
Search the forum - others have also used other brands of oil ok.
There is a ATF filter as well if you feel like replacing it (slight pain to get in and out).--
Marquis
SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3
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Marquis is right about the filter - it's a good idea to replace it, but from memory the bloke who did mine had to drop the crossmember that goes under the tranny in order to get the sump off. Wasn't a real problem for him because he had it on the hoist, but if you're on your back under the Paj it might be a bit unpleasant.
Gaz2010 MY 2011 VR-X V6. Stock standard.
Previously 02 NM auto V6 Exceed silver. Extra transmission cooler & transmission temp gauge, activated rear lights, Impco sequential LPG system, Redback (Wildcat) Headers, heavy duty radiator. Lovells shocks F & R, Polyair bags in rear.
My original Pajero experience - '90 NG Superwagon, 3.0 V6 manual bought new and kept until 1998. Great vehicle, no problems apart from the noisy valve lifters typical of that engine.
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I didnt have to drop the crossmember but it was a bit of a pain to get to the back bolts on the back of the tranny pan. It can be done without dropping it. The filter is pretty easy to change once you have it off, just make sure to get a good chemical resistant gasket sealer/silicone to put the pan back on.03 NP, 34" tires, Fully skiplated, Custom rocksliders, custom winch mount, OME HD springs/shocks, and Aeroflow exhaust, Locked Front and Rear.
Happiness is like peeing your pants, everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth.
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very handy post [ icysyrup ] i would also recommend the internal tranny filter to be replaced seeing its done a few k,s without service plus when the sump pan is off make sure its washed out well so all is spotlessNS 3.2 Diesel, Polor White , Black CSA Rims, HanKook Dynapro AT Tyres, 3 inch custom stainless steel exhaust with free flow Cat & Muffler, 50mm Lift, Old Man Emu Shocks and Springs, TJM Bullbar powder coated White, Custom 7mm Sump Guard & Transmission Guard, 8 inch LED Spotties plus 20 inch LED Light Bar, rear Reverse LED Light, ARB Roof Cage , Tiger11 Awning.
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Great post Icy
Its a job I have contemplated doing , but not been sure of the best way to go about it.
Cheers DaveNM V6,Exceed BFG MTs ,Injected Gas, Proficency course,GME TX3100 UHF , 2 inch lift, Pace Maker Headers ,Dobinsons.Navigation Course (still lost) Rola Roof Racks, Proficency Plus course.
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Originally posted by aldavnic View PostGreat post Icy
Its a job I have contemplated doing , but not been sure of the best way to go about it.
Cheers Dave
- Hand pump (0.25L to 0.5L per stoke) (about $50 at auto shop)
- 2 x 1m hose to fit the two pipes where you take of the "U" pipe (picture above)
- 2 x 10L 100degC buckets (thick plastic buckets)
- sockets/spanners
The hand pump makes it much easier to pump the fluid into the small ATF dip stick tube. Make sure you pump >0.1L of ATF thru the pump to clean it a bit. When finished use rubber bands or small hose clamp with a piece of plastic and/or material (oil resistant/no lint) to seal and keep the pump clean (for those who only use it once a year)--
Marquis
SOLD - NT MY10 DiD, ARB D/Bar, Airtec, LRA 81L, Bil/Lov 2", BCDC1220+AGM, P3
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