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Have you checked for cell to case voltage leakage?
OJ.
2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II. MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
Spoke too soon. This morning. Car was 12 volts. Should i burn the car?
Nothing is attached now. Its stock spec
Repeat the test tonight, but disconnect everything from the battery, ie, remove the negative cables, so nothing is on the neg terminal. This will prove if it is the battery or the car.
Once input the AH value—battery rated capacity, which is marked in the label of the battery. BA101 can test CCA100-2000, 30-220Ah, which is the highest CCA in the market. Use to test a wide range of 12V batteries (Starting [SLI], Deep Cycled and Marine) of Wet (Flooded), VRLA or Maintenance Free (MF), Sealed Maintenance Free (SMF), Absorption Glass Mat (AGM) and GEL cell.
I have another tester but this one is more accurate. Having 6 other batteries apart from the Paj battery means I want to stay on top of any battery issues. Multi meter( and the ability to use it correctly) is also vital. As suggested...
1. charge up battery to 100% state of charge,
2.then turn lights on for 1 minute to get rid of surface charge,
3.take note of voltage reading.
4.Leave overnight.
5.In morning check voltage.
If all is good then use the multi meter to check for parasitic draw.. The best way to find a parasitic draw is to remove 4-5 fuses at a time and carefully check to see if the draw stopped when fuses pulled. You can do 1 fuse at a time but running backwards and forwards will wear you out...unless you have a mate who can help. Most parasitic draws come from accessories that have been fitted after market...otherwise nearly all vehicles would behave the same.. Good luck.
I replaced the OEM battery in my NW after 2 years due to extremely slow cranking and didn't want to get caught with a flat battery.
The replacement is now 3.5 years old and if I leave the Paj for more than 5 days it is very slow to crank so I suspect I will be up for another battery before next winter.
I've got into the habit of plugging in the C-Tek if I know it won't get driven for a few days to get the last bit of life out of this battery.
Monitoring the "smart" alternator charging via ScanGauge shows less than desirable results at times.
I replaced the OEM battery in my NW after 2 years due to extremely slow cranking and didn't want to get caught with a flat battery.
The replacement is now 3.5 years old and if I leave the Paj for more than 5 days it is very slow to crank so I suspect I will be up for another battery before next winter.
I've got into the habit of plugging in the C-Tek if I know it won't get driven for a few days to get the last bit of life out of this battery.
Monitoring the "smart" alternator charging via ScanGauge shows less than desirable results at times.
My 3 year old N70ZZ battery was behaving in a similar way, so I had it tested by the supplier. They said the battery was fine but it needed a good charge.
I charged it with a Ctek, which includes a "desulphation" mode - this worked wonders & the battery was much better.
I give it a charge once per year before winter & it is now over 5 years old.
I wonder if the "smart alternators" as in the NW & NX may cause more sulphation due to their habit of not fully charging the battery?
I trick my "smart alternator" into charging the battery more before I park it up for a holiday by going for a decent drive with some electrical items on, eg, headlights, a/c, seat heaters, etc. - it makes a big difference - it starts OK, even after several weeks parked. I also lock it with the "handle out" method instead of the remote, to avoid activating the alarm (but unsure how much power the alarm actually uses).
I would believe the smart alternator not charging enough if i didn't see a good surface charge voltage or battery above 12.y volts when engine justt turn off from driving
Once input the AH value—battery rated capacity, which is marked in the label of the battery. BA101 can test CCA100-2000, 30-220Ah, which is the highest CCA in the market. Use to test a wide range of 12V batteries (Starting [SLI], Deep Cycled and Marine) of Wet (Flooded), VRLA or Maintenance Free (MF), Sealed Maintenance Free (SMF), Absorption Glass Mat (AGM) and GEL cell.
I have another tester but this one is more accurate. Having 6 other batteries apart from the Paj battery means I want to stay on top of any battery issues. Multi meter( and the ability to use it correctly) is also vital. As suggested...
1. charge up battery to 100% state of charge,
2.then turn lights on for 1 minute to get rid of surface charge,
3.take note of voltage reading.
4.Leave overnight.
5.In morning check voltage.
If all is good then use the multi meter to check for parasitic draw.. The best way to find a parasitic draw is to remove 4-5 fuses at a time and carefully check to see if the draw stopped when fuses pulled. You can do 1 fuse at a time but running backwards and forwards will wear you out...unless you have a mate who can help. Most parasitic draws come from accessories that have been fitted after market...otherwise nearly all vehicles would behave the same.. Good luck.
Thank you
I have down a parasitic test and all i seen is 20 milliamps
12.6 is 100% charge for a lead acid battery. 12.4 is around 75% 12.2 is 50%. I have a Ultragauge on my 2014 NW and rarely see voltage below 13+ when driving. Battery sits around 12.5-12.6 during course of the day. I virtually have the air-con on all the time (Cairns) sothis helps keep charge voltage up. Once a month I also put it on a quality 240v ac charger (projecta). Seems others have some sort of an issue as well. Sorry mate..I,m out of ideas...could suggest a small solar panel left on (if possible). I,d still invest in a good battery tester as well.
So 4.30pm. Its 12.71 volts just finished driving home from work.
I,d turn the headlights on highbeam for 1 minute to get rid of surface charge. Then disconnect pos and neg from battery...check voltage...leave overnight and check again.
I,d turn the headlights on highbeam for 1 minute to get rid of surface charge. Then disconnect pos and neg from battery...check voltage...leave overnight and check again.
So its 6.30pm now and voltage is 12.61v
Thanks Dicko1
Is your suggestion to test the battery?
Because this will be the 3rd battery in 2 months.
Original one that I thought was dead. Then first new replacement which I blamed then this one.
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