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  • mppaj
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2019
    • 5
    • Adelaide

    Cargo barrier shelf

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    Started off with some 12mm 1200 by 1200mm piece of plywood from Bunnings. Cut it to 1200 W and 600mm D

    90◦ piece of steel bar cut in the middle was going to be my two mounting brackets for the shelf. 2 holes drilled through the bar then with some large washer and nuts and bolts acted as the anchoring point to mount the bracket to the cargo barrier. Ensure to use thicker washer at the back of cargo barrier as the skinnier ones bent when being tightened to the cargo barrier.
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    Two more holes where then drilled as these would be the holes that would secure the shelf to bracket. I didn’t drill the holes in the middle of the bracket more to the edge as I wanted to ensure I had enough space to fit a socket and ratchet around the head of the bolt and not to hit the cargo barrier when tightening. These brackets will stay permanently mounted to the cargo barrier making for a quicker setup time.
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    From underneath I marked and then drilled the holes into the plywood.
    Using some 85mm wide by 25 mm thick wood I cut it size as this was going to be the edging for the shelf. The piece at the front was 50mm H by 1200mm long and the 2 pieces on the sides 35mm H and cut to length which was then screwed with timber screws. A galvanized strip with holes in it would act as the perfect support for the shelf. The holes in the strip were perfect to use with an ochy strap to hold down tubs or other items giving you adjustment as well.
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    Adjustment was then made to ensure the shelf was sitting level and then holes were drilled through the wooden side edging and lined up with the existing holes on the galv strip. Once screwed in place the end of the strip was then bent to fit underneath the shelf to act as a bit more of support.
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    Dad seem to have the perfect piece of aluminium channel that was the perfect length and track width for the 12mm thick plywood to slide easily, and powder coated in white to easily be seen as again this channel will be permanently mounted to my false floor. A new piece of plywood was then cut to the length of the channel and to the height from the floor to underneath the shelf. Keep in mind the thickness on the channel for both the top and the bottom. This piece is to slide out easily and be removed when packing, making it easier installing the fridge slide and also to protect the fridge. It simply slides back in once everything is done. A countersunk wood screw was used at the front and a bolt with a larger head to act as a stopper was used and the back.
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    Once everything was lined up it was then time to carpet. Liquid nails and weight plates came in very handy at this point.
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  • mppaj
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2019
    • 5
    • Adelaide

    #2
    I also added another piece of plywood with the same dimensions as the piece that slides out. This was to protect anything falling on to fridge from the other side. A piano hinge was added to make removal and install of the shelf easy. Mounting the piano hinge to the plywood first would mean that the carpet sat over the hinge making for a clean look. Was then lined up straight on the floor and with the fridge slide and screwed into the floor and underneath of the shelf.
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    I didn’t quite get the thickness of the carpet and sliding track right so I had to cut away some of the carpet, only to the height of the track so that the piece could slide easily.
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    I purchased a 1.3m led strip with a dimmer from a 4wd shop. This had a fairly large Velcro loop so I cut the fury side off and trimmed the stickier side of the Velcro to size and restitched it back to the LED strips housing. Having carpet would mean the stickier side of the Velcro would stick right to the carpet. Cutting the Velcro to size would mean I would minimize the amount to sag the LED strip would have when stuck underneath the shelf.
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    I also purchased a pack of ten magnets as the led strip had some more loops. I would simple place a few magnets into these loops and stich them shut with the magnets inside. I used magnets as these would attach easily to the inside of door and exterior of the car. I thought about using a Velcro strip with a sticky back but over time and with heat the glue would slowly turn to shit.
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    Once one side was done, I went back out to the car to do a test fit. As the LED strip was a little bit long than my tail gate I simple cut some left over material I had, lined it up with the end of the tail gate and repeated the same process.
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    This way I can simple unstick the led strip from underneath the shelf and attach it to my tail gate for more lighting.

    The LED strip came with a dimmer and an easy connect and disconnect plug making it easy to remove the shelf.
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    Comment

    • mppaj
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2019
      • 5
      • Adelaide

      #3
      And there you have it all finished. The good thing about having a shelf is that you can easily install it and remove it making sure you get the full use of the 7 seats. 6 bolts, a hinged divider and a slide out divider makes this very strong and sturdy. Disconnect the light, slide out the divider, undo the nuts and bolts, fold up the hinged divider and out it comes.

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      Comment

      • Hatto
        Valued Member
        • Nov 2013
        • 1208
        • Mandurah WA

        #4
        Wow, great work!
        Cheers, Hatto

        2012 NW GLS Diesel Auto with:
        ARB delux bar, full length Ocam ally roof rack with rear LED work light, dual batteries, DIY rear ally drawers with fridge slide, 2" lift oztec/kings, Polyairs, Kings awning 2.5 x 2.5m with LED strip light, pair of genr8 40w LED spot/flood driving lights, iron man 4x4 22" LED light bar, mounted thumper compressor, 70L water tank & 12v pump, 120w solar, LED interior lights, Boo Boo's bash plates, Safari snorkel and Grande mk lll 12000lb winch.

        Comment

        • Jack ANT
          Member
          • Mar 2012
          • 101
          • Shoalhaven

          #5
          Nice work. Much neater than what I did in our previous 4wd.
          A note of caution though, be vary wary of the metal strap used to brace the side connected to the handle above the side window. I found that type of metal doing that exact same thing fatigued and snapped in under 2 years. Was a bugger to sort in the High Country. I ended up replacing with a flat section of mild steel.
          You just don't realise how much it moves.

          Comment

          • mppaj
            Junior Member
            • Feb 2019
            • 5
            • Adelaide

            #6
            Thanks fro the tip Jack ANT. Will definately keep an eye on it

            Comment

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