Noise in rear end

[PhilipK5]

I had my car to Mitsubishi to fix drivetrain clunk. I have manual and it would clunk both when changing gears and when putting power on and off on the highway. They kindly replaced the rear tailshaft under warranty.
But the drive train clunk was still there.
I took it back and suggested they check the hub nuts as per many comments here on the forum. Car was returned and I was told the hub nuts were OK and that driveline clunk is normal.
The clunk was driving me nuts so I purchased a 36mm socket and tightened hub nuts myself using a torque wrench as described elsewhere on our forum. Both nuts both turned over a 1/4 turn when tightened up properly. Magic clunk now gone.
Mitsubishi had not checked hub nuts at all as dust caps and split pin showed no signs of being removed and refitted. Happy with my Pajero now that clunk is gone.

[Sunnywaxman]

Knock in Rear Fixed

Found the same issue with a developing knock in the rear end on acceleration and decelerations, this gradually got worse over the last couple of of weeks. It had been there of and on for a couple of months and could never track it down.

The last week got suddenly worse and the mechanics found the issue, the CV Joint locking nut and retainer had worked it way loose in the rear, new split pin tighten it up and no noise perfect.

[James McNally]

Hi All, well i can see this post ended some years ago but thought I'd give it a whirl.
got a 2008 NS VRX and seem to be suffering with a similar problem. only had it for 2 years now and have already done the full HBB brake unit change over....that hurt big time.
but over the past 4-5 months i have developed a whirring noise from the back.....a little hard to hear with All terrains on but they were replaced 2 months ago and since running hwy's the noise is quite clear in the cabin, most noticeable between 40 to 60k's after that it gets burried in road noise.......my previous mechanic said no prob's rear hub will be loose we'll nip it up.
well drove out and the noise is still there, took it back and asked if the nip up was done.....he checked it again apparently and found no noise but i can hear it plain as day.
took it to a new mechanic...explaining i thought would be a worn wheel bearing causing the hub to come loose but he seems to think it's more from the centre of the rear rather than the outer. he is going to run a diagnostic to locate the immediate area of concern with Censors and head phones there is no clunk just a whirring noise in sync with wheel rotation.
anyone know if these rear bearings are pressed as I might for my own benefit change myself.

[NS07SHORTY]

Hi All, well i can see this post ended some years ago but thought I'd give it a whirl.
got a 2008 NS VRX and seem to be suffering with a similar problem. only had it for 2 years now and have already done the full HBB brake unit change over....that hurt big time.
but over the past 4-5 months i have developed a whirring noise from the back.....a little hard to hear with All terrains on but they were replaced 2 months ago and since running hwy's the noise is quite clear in the cabin, most noticeable between 40 to 60k's after that it gets burried in road noise.......my previous mechanic said no prob's rear hub will be loose we'll nip it up.
well drove out and the noise is still there, took it back and asked if the nip up was done.....he checked it again apparently and found no noise but i can hear it plain as day.
took it to a new mechanic...explaining i thought would be a worn wheel bearing causing the hub to come loose but he seems to think it's more from the centre of the rear rather than the outer. he is going to run a diagnostic to locate the immediate area of concern with Censors and head phones there is no clunk just a whirring noise in sync with wheel rotation.
anyone know if these rear bearings are pressed as I might for my own benefit change myself.

Wheel bearing they are cheap and easy to change out

[redbruce]

Hi All, well i can see this post ended some years ago but thought I'd give it a whirl.
got a 2008 NS VRX and seem to be suffering with a similar problem. only had it for 2 years now and have already done the full HBB brake unit change over....that hurt big time.
but over the past 4-5 months i have developed a whirring noise from the back.....a little hard to hear with All terrains on but they were replaced 2 months ago and since running hwy's the noise is quite clear in the cabin, most noticeable between 40 to 60k's after that it gets burried in road noise.......my previous mechanic said no prob's rear hub will be loose we'll nip it up.
well drove out and the noise is still there, took it back and asked if the nip up was done.....he checked it again apparently and found no noise but i can hear it plain as day.
took it to a new mechanic...explaining i thought would be a worn wheel bearing causing the hub to come loose but he seems to think it's more from the centre of the rear rather than the outer. he is going to run a diagnostic to locate the immediate area of concern with Censors and head phones there is no clunk just a whirring noise in sync with wheel rotation.
anyone know if these rear bearings are pressed as I might for my own benefit change myself.

See post #12

https://www.pajeroforum.com.au/forum/vehicles/generation-4-4-pajero/1073347-rear-wheel-bearing#post1076485

[James McNally]

Cheers Guys.....I'll give it a whirl and come back to you with a result
for me I recon bearings as well

[Steve LWB 3.2]

Having read threads from the South African 4x4 community forum, South African Pajero Club and Pajero Forum Club Vic I’m posting this comment regarding the “thunk” coming from the rear diff and how it was solved in my case. I live in Plettenberg Bay, South Africa and can’t speak highly enough of Dean Smyth, owner of DRS Motors who worked with me to resolve the problem.

I have a 2016 Gen 4 LWB with 113,000km on the clock and from about 108,000 noticed a “thunk” coming from somewhere in the rear when I was cruising at anywhere above ± 60kph and accelerated or deaccelerated – I could make the noise happen just by tapping the accelerator and as the kms increased above 108,000 it happened more and more often, at lower speeds and became louder.

I took the vehicle to the Mitsubishi Dealer in Somerset West and we popped it on a lift expecting to find worn bushes or something lose in the suspension – all was good. However, they did mention that they had seen the issue before, but couldn’t find the definite cause but it may be from natural wear in the prop shaft and drive chain. Nevertheless, they said the car was safe to drive.

On returning to Plett and after reading many blogs Dean carried out a detailed inspection of diff mountings, suspension bushes, wheel bearings, crown nuts etc etc but found nothing obviously damaged. However, he did notice that the “thunk” didn’t happen when first driving, but only once the car had warmed up. He then decided to replace the rear diff oil (this is normally done at the 120,000 km service). The manufacturers spec is for a Hypoid GL5 SAE 80W gear oil, but none was available. However, the Mitsubishi Dealer in George advised that they prefer the Hypoid SAE 80W-90 (in our case Liqui-Moly brand) as it has a wider temperature range and would still met the manufacturers spec.

It was like turning off a switch – the “thunk” immediately and completely disappeared and no amount of accelerating or deaccelerating at any speed can make it happen. We compared the old and new oil and apart from a slight darkening of the old oil there was no obvious difference - we can only assume that once the old oil heats up in the diff it loses some of its dampening properties.

So, before going the expensive route of diff rebuilds etc……try changing the diff oil.