HELP!!!! ASC and Engine Light = Limp Mode

[DaveM]

Glad I'm a member of this forum. I have had that problem happen to me over the weekend. Just looking for people's thought's or opinions. Last week I had my 2" lift installed and noticed when I picked it up that clock etc was reset, telling me the battery had been disconnected for some period of time. Next day I'm in 4H heading out a dirt road when ASC off light comes on and power dies in the bum Stop turn vehicle off for a min or 2 then turn back on and all's well again. Next day I'm off for a camp towing the Jayco when it happens again, this time engine light comes on as well and good'ol limp mode again. Try the old turn vehicle off wait and turn back on a no luck this time. Now with the Gibraltar range climb ahead - Not happy Jan

Anyway after reading other threads on forum, disconnect battery for about 10 min restart and all's well again with problem not re-occurring so far.

Any thought's on that when Batt was disconnected by mechanic, how does this cause this problem, or if it's the blocked sensor?

[BarryJ]

I got the dreaded "Check Engine" & "ASC Off" lights over the weekend and the vehicle went into limp mode. Found that if I stopped the engine for 30 mins or more, I only had the "Check Engine" light on but after 30km or so, the "ASC Off" light came on and I lost further power.

I took the vehicle in to my local MM dealer this morning at opening time & the guy from Service Reception hooked up a ScanTool and the fault showed up as a MAP issue. Unfortunately they were fully booked for the day so I booked it in for later in the week.

Almost as an afterthought, the "receptionist" (obviously had a technical background) decided to have a quick look under the bonnet and found a vacuum line to the MAP sensor had come adrift. He grabbed some tools, tidied up the end of the hose, refitted it and attached a cable tie. All is well.

Fantastic service from DJ Motors in Hobart.
Arrow indicates hose which had come adrift:


Closeup:

[Sean Carritt]

try diisconnect battery. leave for 10 minutes or so and reconnect otherwise failing that. get it into mitsubishi before any further damage is created...... from personel experience

[craka]

try diisconnect battery. leave for 10 minutes or so and reconnect otherwise failing that. get it into mitsubishi before any further damage is created...... from personel experience

That might have been your experience, and I/we are unsure what in particular was wrong with your vehicle but ASC engine light and limp mode could be numerous things. With a cheap scanner you can possibly identify the fault see if it is errounous that simply can be cleared or of the code relates to something you can possibly fault find yourself.

FYI - This thread was last posted to 5 years ago.

[_Clinton_]

My wife has been going through this a fair bit lately, the car seems to always go into limp mode and ASC lights and others come on. She would stop and restart car and do this about three times each way home.

I had a feeling it was the MAP sensor so I cleaned it with electrical cleaner which temporarily fixed the issue it seemed, but it always came back a few days or weeks later.

Eventually I used a code reader which showed P0107 (Low circuit fault). Some other forum member stated that code directly meant that the MAP sensor was faulty or the harness was shot.

So I recently replaced the MAP sensor myself, an eBay UK one for $70 delivered ($270 from Mitsu Aus) and swapped it out, a 2 min job.

This has fixed the issues, being sluggish acceleration, the obvious limp mode and rough idle. There are many codes associated with the MAP sensor, but P0107 seems to relate directly to having a blocked or stuffed sensor.

Hope it helps someone else in future.

[surfin]

My wife has been going through this a fair bit lately, the car seems to always go into limp mode and ASC lights and others come on. She would stop and restart car and do this about three times each way home.

I had a feeling it was the MAP sensor so I cleaned it with electrical cleaner which temporarily fixed the issue it seemed, but it always came back a few days or weeks later.

Eventually I used a code reader which showed P0107 (Low circuit fault). Some other forum member stated that code directly meant that the MAP sensor was faulty or the harness was shot.

So I recently replaced the MAP sensor myself, an eBay UK one for $70 delivered ($270 from Mitsu Aus) and swapped it out, a 2 min job.

This has fixed the issues, being sluggish acceleration, the obvious limp mode and rough idle. There are many codes associated with the MAP sensor, but P0107 seems to relate directly to having a blocked or stuffed sensor.

Hope it helps someone else in future.

Thanks for your reply Clinton

Your symptoms are exactly the issues I have been having. ASC lights come on, no power. Turn it off and back on...all good for 10 minute or 10 weeks. No correlation as to when it will occur next.

I was about to buy a map sensor from the UK...but now I will after reading your success

Cheers

[jackjunior]

help !!!! asc and engine light = limp mode

hi I have same problem I removed the egr sensors plug and forgot to put it back drove car around the block put the egr sensors back and now got engine light on I disconnected the battery cable for 3 days now got engine light on and asc light on and car not running good it was running good before I removed the egr sensor plug pajero now in shed for 5 weeks
what to do ??? I owned a 1992 pajero never let me down and it was easy to work on the modern car are getting less reliable cheers jack

[kiwi1973]

hi I have same problem I removed the egr sensors plug and forgot to put it back drove car around the block put the egr sensors back and now got engine light on I disconnected the battery cable for 3 days now got engine light on and asc light on and car not running good it was running good before I removed the egr sensor plug pajero now in shed for 5 weeks
what to do ??? I owned a 1992 pajero never let me down and it was easy to work on the modern car are getting less reliable cheers jack

It's a bit unfair to blame your Pajero's 'reliability' where you appear to recognise you have caused this issue yourself. The newer Pajero's are entirely within the realm of the modern minded DIY home mechanic - but a rather different set of skills is required to work on the newer electronically controlled vehicles and unfortunately there is not much knowledge you can bring across from your older Gen 2 Pajero in this regard - mechanically there are actually many similarities, but not electronically.

I would have thought the error you have caused could be cleared by an aftermarket scan gauge, but if not then a Mitsubishi dealer MUT will be required to reset your system. In some cases only a MUT can reset an emissions related error code.

[kiwi1973]

Just as a general comment on this thread, have those of you experiencing the issue this thread relates to ensured you have a clean inlet manifold before you start looking to the MAP sensor as being the cause of the issue?

MAP sensors on Gen 4's don't often give much trouble. Far far more likely to be the true cause of the fault is either a carboned up inlet manifold (there is plenty on this forum about this issue if you search), or else a blocked/split tube between the inlet manifold and the MAP sensor. I suspect in the majority of cases it won't be the MAP sensor at fault, though given the intermittent nature of the fault it would be easy to temporarily think the issue was solved after replacing the MAP sensor.

[_Clinton_]

Just as a general comment on this thread, have those of you experiencing the issue this thread relates to ensured you have a clean inlet manifold before you start looking to the MAP sensor as being the cause of the issue?

MAP sensors on Gen 4's don't often give much trouble. Far far more likely to be the true cause of the fault is either a carboned up inlet manifold (there is plenty on this forum about this issue if you search), or else a blocked/split tube between the inlet manifold and the MAP sensor. I suspect in the majority of cases it won't be the MAP sensor at fault, though given the intermittent nature of the fault it would be easy to temporarily think the issue was solved after replacing the MAP sensor.

I agree, however this all depends on the code which is identified. I say this because as far as I can see, only the code P0107 relates directly to a bad MAP sensor (as in stuffed). A clogged or disconnected vac hose or a blocked manifold will throw a different code, usually P0106, however the symptoms are much the same (limp mode etc).

I had my manifold top and bottom cleaned last year, but the bad MAP sensor problem occurred about a year later. I still blame the crusted up manifold, but it's not always an instant correlation. I had no issues with the manifold, despite the mechanic saying it was so blocked up he was surprised the car ran.

My top tips are 1; buy a cheap wireless scan gauge and download an app to read and clear the codes to know if it's P0107 or other. 2; if it is P0107 then pay the $70 for a sensor from UK. If it's not, look at cleaning the manifold, check and replace vac lines to MAP.

[justcruizin]

Also depends on whether the manifold has been updated to the NT. The NS has the map sensor hose on the bottom of the manifold and the NT on top which is less likely to block as easily.

[rgrubby]

Short version:
The fault code was P0107 – Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input. Sensor value was static at 6.0916 psi (Torque Pro app)
It only happened in the mornings after cold nights (low single digits)
The fault went away after handling the sensor, would be fine for the rest of the day. I suspect sensor didn’t like the cold.
Replaced sensor, all fixed.

Long version:
The NS went into limp mode within a few minutes of driving.
I used the Torque Pro app to read the fault code as P0107 – Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input.
Blocked inlet manifold I said to myself. I cleaned the inlet manifold 18 months ago, so that was a surprise. About 6 months ago I fitted a catch can and I have recently done the resister mod.
I pulled the sensor out on the side of the road and gave it a look. I poked some wire down the port into the manifold and it had some gunk on it. I reassembled it all, cleared the fault, and drove off for my 4 hour trip home with the family very relieved.
About a week later, same fault. Did same procedure, got same result.
About a week later, same fault. Cleared the hole, didn’t fix it. Removed sensor, gave it a blow, checked terminals, checked hoses, refit, all works. At this point I’m no longer thinking the inlet manifold is the problem, but the sensor is.
Next day, same problem.
During fault condition, I had noticed the pressure reading from the sensor was 6.0916 psi. This didn’t change when I revved the engine or pulled the hose off. When working the idle pressure is about 14psi and will change when the engine is revved. The sensor always started working after being removed, handled, and refit. The problem was always in the morning (cold).
I bought a new sensor (I paid the Mitsubishi tax as I wanted it that day, I couldn’t wait for one to be delivered from over seas)
I tried the Pajero the next morning with old sensor, same problem. I fitted the new sensor, worked perfectly.