My '05 NP Diesel All Rounder

[mashupss]

Hi All,

I have had my pajero for a while now and I have done a few upgrades which I wanted to share some pictures and hopefully help someone out as alot of other people on this forum have done for myself.

So in chronological order, the first mod to the pajero was to install a second battery and VSR to power a fridge/compressor and anything else I wanted from the rear of the car.

So first step was to decide how much power I wanted available at the rear of the paj to figure out what size cable I needed. I wanted to be able to comfortably run my fridge (engel 40L) and my compressor (DR Air Pro Flow 150) and potentially a rear light all at the same time if required.

At full load the compressor draws 45A (from specs), the engel about 2A, and a 50W light is about 4A for a total of about 50A. I opted for some extra power if required (potential inverter) so I bought 5m of 100A 4guage CCA cable. CCA is copper clad aluminium and is not as conductive as pure copper, but it is cheaper and significantly more flexible.
The downside CCS is about 20% larger diameter than equivalent copper. I fount the pajero had plenty of room for cables so this wasn't an issue.

1.jpg

Pic shows the size of the cabling next to each other. The largest cable is the 4awg 100A CCA, the smallest wire is 14awg 7.5A regular auto cabling, 3core 240V house wire from bunnings, a 50A anderson connector pin, and some larger copper cable I used in my anderson plugs.

My plan was to terminate the cables from my second battery with a 175amp anderson split into a triple adapter of 3x50amp anderson plugs for multiple appliances.

The size difference of the plugs.
2.jpg

The next step was to lay the cables.
I ran the 4guage cables for the primary rear power. I ran two 3 core cables as well (I realise trailer wire would have been better now) because I wanted to have the option of installing two way switches which I can turn on from either the cab or the rear.
I started in the passenger foot well leaving about a metre of cable to run through the firewall to the second battery.
It is easy enough to pop off the trim along the edge of the car and find mitsubishi's cable trays. There was plenty of room for my two 20mm^2 cables and two 3core cables along side.

Pictures
3.jpg
4.jpg

I removed the pillar trim and the passenger seat belt to run the cable in to the back seats.
Getting the cables under the rear scuff area was harder than the front due to the rigid foam. I bent the foam up with some force to get the cables into one of the ridges in the foam.
I didnt get them in far enough the first time and the scuff plate clips would not hold and kept popping back up.

5.jpg
6.jpg
7.jpg

To get the cables into the rear I removed the rear seats, the floor, and the passenger side trim. There was some helpful instructions in another thread to install trailer plug that walks through this process.

I ran the cables over the rear wheel arch and clipped the 3core into the free clips. I taped them all in place and ran the ends out of the rear seat holes. Reinstalling the trim was reverse of removal.

8.jpg
9.jpg

The next step was to get the cables into the engine bay for the new battery. My spare firewall grommets were already full of spotlight and UHF cabling, so I decided to use the main firewall grommet.

I had to cut a slit in the edge of the grommet as there wasnt enough room for the cables, then heavily wrapped it up in electrical tape and used cable covering.

Picture firewall10.jpg

Next step was to provide power connections at the rear. I got some heavy gauge wire rated for 70A to make up the triple adapter anderson plug. 175Amp Anderson split to 3x 50A andersons.

I didnt have a hydraulic crimper at this point so I just filled the connectors with solder, then heat shrinked.

11.jpg
12.jpg

continued...

[mashupss]

After I bought my second battery I got a Narva 140A VSR kit. Best value for money I could find. 140amps is more than what Paj alternator can provide so if I am drawing that much I am in trouble anyway.

The only downside of the Narva unit is that there is no override switch to connect both batteries if you want to use the second battery to jump start. The VSR disconnects the batteries when the voltage is below 12.7V which is basically fully charged.
I got some 2awg cable for the VSR to battery cables. I didnt have any decent terminal lugs at the time so I used what I had (Jaycar), I have upgraded the terminals since.

13.jpg
14.jpg
15.jpg

From left to right: eBay 35-8 terminal (first number relates to cable size(?), second number is lug hole size(mm)), middle eBay 50-8, trade electrical supplier 3-phase 50-8 ($5ea)

16.jpg

Final setup for my first trip 2 weeks up to Exmouth. Black tape on red cables due to running out of heat shrink. I made a mounting bracket for the VSR (aluminium and rivets).
Major test was driving up the Gnarloo station corrugations of death and all survived nice and tight (however uhf whip broke from vibrations)


Upcoming mods
- second battery voltmeter and ammeter
- lift kit
- pressure switch for compressor

[mashupss]

Realised I forgot to post a pic of my Paj.

Here it is currently

Paj.jpg

[Phil]

Nice and neat work, well done.

Phil.

[mashupss]

Lift Kit

After a few trips out 4wding in my Paj I realised it was way too low even for offroading on beach tracks. After letting the tyres down it was even lower and when driving along sand tracks I could here little rocks hitting my bash plate which wasnt comfortingl. It also meant bellying out was a real concern.

So I eventually ordered a 2" lift kit. I decided on Lovells springs, heavy duty on the front and standard at the rear as per the Lovells catalouge. And some Gabriel shocks because I liked the colour.

I used the Guide created by Mmannion - DIY suspension install. Excellent guide.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=30279

Overall the install was pretty straightforward.

The upper A-Arm bolts were extremely tight and I ended up using the spare jack to crack the nuts.

1.jpg

Removing the first strut was a bit of a challenge but the second strut was alot quicker.
A comparison between the standard strut and spring vs Lovells HD 50mm lift spring.

2.jpg

The rear suspension was actually more difficult than the front. Mainly due to the fact you have to jack jack the lower arm up to compress the new spring which is significantly stiffer than the stock one.

3.jpg
4.jpg
The old springs vs Lovells

The amount of tension built up while compressing the springs up had me on edge. I used bricks to prop the arm up for safety measure to prevent the spring shooting out. The spring seems to push down and backwards, so it is essential to pull the arm forward as you compress the spring so that you can align the bolt holes of the arm and the hub. I used a chain block instead of a ratchet strap to pull the arm across. See hook on lower arm in the pic below. Was still uneasy.

5.jpg

New shocks and springs.
6.jpg

The top nut on one of the rear shocks was so seized up that when trying to remove the nut on the top of the shock, the tab on the thread to prevent the shock from twisting - sheared and broke off. I ended up having to hacksaw the nut in half to remove the nut.

Comparison of before and after:

7.jpg 8.jpg

Clearance before and after - 200mm to lowest point, after lift 295mm (5,000km later with new tyres) - the old front springs had some serious sag, I gained about 85mm lift at the front wheels. Comparing to other peoples lifts, the centre of wheel to top of guard is now 540mm (front and rear).

9.jpg10.jpg

Looking under the car from the front - heaps of clearance, even more diff clearance than my mates 75 series cruiser. The fatter shocks are pretty close to the CV shafts but there is at least a 5mm gap between them. Have not had any issues in the last 5,000km including 4wding.

11.jpg12.jpg

Comments on the lift kit:
The extra lift is great offroad, however it is borderline too much lift for everyday. Even with a steel bull bar and dual battery the front of the car is very high and is a very firm ride. The rear doesnt sag much either now, even loaded up.

After getting new tyres and a wheel alignment the rear wheels are at maximum camber adjustment and still have a positive 3degree camber, which is in spec but only just. I would prefer a slight negative camber.

Fuel economoy has gone up from mid 10's to mid 12's.

I have also torn a inner CV boot within 3months of completing the lift.

CV boot repair up next.

[hinsch]

There is a CV joint in Osborne Park Allens CV behind the Mercedes dealers they are pretty good if you need to get them done.

[mashupss]

Inner CV boot replacement

Thanks hinsch, I ended up repairing the boot myself.

So a bit of context, after recently installing a lift kit I was down the southwest of WA doing some 4wding on the beach and I managed to tear the inner CV boot on my Paj.

I noticed the tear while I was hosing off my car and saw a line of grease on the guard where the sand wouldn't hose off. Not being in a position to fix the hole I wiped off as much sand as I could from inside and outside the boot and then packed it full of some grease I had in the car (conveniently it was CV suitable Lithium Moly grease - didnt know at the time)

I drove 200kms on bitumen and ended up speaking to a mate who suggested wrapping it in a bike tube which I did, and then wrapped it in gaffer tape which was very effective.

I drove another 250km before I was able to do repairs at home.

1.jpg
Hole in the boot

2.jpg
Before wrapping with gaffer tape.

There is an excellent guide linked in another thread for removing the front CV joint from a Triton. It is virtually identical to the Pajero. https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...t=27895&page=3

I followed the guide to remove my CV and the only thing I did differently was that I had to loosen the nuts for the lower ball joint. Just to the end of the threads which allowed for a little bit more play to get the CV out of the hub.

The hardest part was removing the hubcap - small screw driver worked the best.

3.jpg
Removing the hub cap

4.jpg

Pic above shows the CV removed, which required the lower ball joint to be loosened and some steering angle to get the CV out of the hub end. The passenger side joint is a plunge joint so it must be pushed into the diff fully to get the other end out of the hub. Once out of the hub end, a sharp tug and the CV comes out of the diff, it has a wire circlip (not a normal circlip) so it is easy to remove.

5.jpg

The hole on the inner CV boot. The wire clip that holds the CV in the diff is partially visible on the end of the spline. I cut the old boot off using wire cutters.

To remove the cv joint from the shaft there is a wire circlip that prevents the outer housing sliding off the bearing. Thanks stumagoo - https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...49&postcount=3
The shaft and bearing should then slide out. See pics below.

6.jpg
7.jpg

To remove the balls from the bearing cage I used a small screw driver to pry them out. They are quite a tight fit and feel like they bind on the housing.

8.jpg

It is important to remember the orientation the shaft came out of the outer housing (mark it), and arrange the balls so that you put them back in the same locations. I think I mixed mine up. The inner bearing race is held on by a circlip which you need to remove to slide the new boot on (or you can remove the outer CV and slide it on from that end).

9.jpg

After cleaning the old grease, I reinstalled the balls. They have a noticeable binding feeling and 'snap' into place. I repacked the joint with the new CV grease that comes with the boot kit (Repco). And reinstalled the shaft, and retaining clip.

[mashupss]

Outer CV Boot

While I had the drive shaft out I did the outer boot as well.
This end pulls off easily as it has a similar wire clip to the diff spline. A few tugs and it came off.

11.jpg

The bearing part looks like the picture below (after cleaning). This picture shows how I removed the balls from the race, and how I reinstalled them. You have to lever the joint to quite an angle to get the balls free. Again, its worth trying to remember where they came out of.

12.jpg

To clean the CV out you have to get the bearing cage out as well. This is kind of like a puzzle. Spin it to its side and it will come out. Similarly for the inner piece. See pics.

13.jpg
14.jpg

Re-installation was the reverse. The recessed edge should face upwards. The first ball is easy to insert, then you have to lever the casing out far enough to push the other balls in. I started by putting three balls in which allows easy rotation to put the last three in.

15.jpg
16.jpg

The hardest part is reinserting the shaft because the wire circlip gets caught on the edge of the spline housing. See pic below.
I got around this by using a cable tie to hold the clip flush with the shaft while I tapped the shaft in. Similar idea to a piston ring compressor. The cable tie has to be as tight as you can get it and a short, fast tap. It took me a couple of cable ties.

10.jpg
I almost forgot to put the boot on before reinserting the shaft.

The boot kits come supplied with steel cable ties, but you need a special cable tightening tool that is well worth buying for about $15. It allows you to get the boot clamps tight which is what you want. A loose boot is the same as not having a boot.

17.jpg

Hope this helps someone out. Cheers.

[Axis]

Great work. Looking forward to the details on the compressor air pressure switch!

[MyExceed]

Good to see another guy doing his own work. Awesome write ups and pics too. Thanks

[Apollo]

Well written up with good pics and descriptions. Handy reference post.

[Wireystag]

Where did you guy the lift from and what was the spring weight can you recall?
Looks like your Pam is coming along nicely. Very well done.

[mashupss]

Hi Wirey, my Pam is coming along nicely. I bought the lift off eBay. I don't think Lovells state a spring weight rating for their speings. The springs are CFR-90HD up front and CRR-91 in the rear. Look in the catalogue for more details: http://www.lovellsauto.com.au/docs/cat_4x4suspkits.pdf

My opinion is the heavy duty springs are really heavy duty. I probably would have opted for standard duty raised up front because the front is very hard, but it does have good clearance. Lift will definitely firm up your ride and make you feel more bumps. My car drives nicer loaded than empty now. I don't tow anything heavier than a tinny and my car is often lightly loaded so I might be bias. Even with the car fully loaded the springs barely sag (and the rear is only standard duty). After more than 30thou kms including 4wding I wouldn't have lost more than 2mm height, so I recommend the Lovells.

[mashupss]

Compressor mount behind interior panel

Hi all,

Long time no update. This mod was actually finished about a year ago but I never got around to posting. I decided to hard mount my Dr Air Pro Flow compressor behind the rear panel/trim of the paj.

After checking out the space on both sides of the car behind the rear wheel arch I decided on the passenger side because of the handy hatch. Plus I already had power on that side which made wiring easier. (I have attached pics on both sides for reference)

The first picture shows where I drilled holes to mount the compressor. I just placed the unit where it would clear the car trim and have room for heat dissipation, and marked the holes, then drilled them out to the same size as the sand plate mounting bolts. Removed the sand plate and bolted the compressor to the floor of the car (picture 2). The second picture also shows the pressure switch.

I connected a t-piece to the compressor – one end with a male nitto fitting for connecting the hose, the other for the adjustable pressure switch which I bought off ebay for under $10.

I had previously rigged up a 80amp relay to remotely operate the compressor. The relay runs off the same power that supplies the compressor. I decided to keep the remote switch at this stage but will eventually use it as an isolator. Both the remote switch and pressure switch are connected in series to control the relay which connects powers to the compressor. I have attached a basic diagram which is not an electrical diagram standard but should explain what I did.

The pressure switch is conveniently adjustable by a screw on the switch. I set mine to (open) at 50psi (typically what I pump my bike tyres up to). This is also relatively low that with a handheld tyre inflator the hose line wont be under much pressure (I think ARB uses 90-70psi or higher?).

I did find I had to use a lot of thread tape to prevent any leaks, and the compressor valves must leak a little so it does cycle a rev or two as the pressure leaks below 50psi but its pretty good. It would be better to have a two stage switch with an upper pressure for ‘off’, and lower pressure for ‘on’ again, but I couldn’t find one reasonably priced.

Last two pics show the unit installed and hidden behind trim.