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Weaping oil left side rear differential.

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  • craka
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2009
    • 2057
    • Newcastle (Newie)

    Weaping oil left side rear differential.

    The left side of rear diff there is a slight weeping of oil.

    Is this what is referred to a companion shaft ?
    (note this is a Gen4 NS pajero not the Gen3 which I've read about having companion shaft issues)

    I'm assuming there is a seal that mates between. How hard is it to replace and what do I need in way of parts etc?
    Attached Files
    NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

    Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.
  • Jasonmc73
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2019
    • 2692
    • Brisbane

    #2
    Workshop manual just shows Axle seal mate.

    When apart just check shaft where seal runs for groove or wear.

    Look in Differential carrier assembly section of manual its number 33.

    Axle seals leaking

    Someone cleverer than me might be able to send better link


    Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

    Comment

    • aussieintas
      Valued Member
      • Feb 2013
      • 2191
      • Sorell, Tasmania

      #3
      Hey bud change 1 on mine a year or so ago. Its a diff oil seal, part number for mine was MR350883.

      Simplified details to change below.

      Drain diff of oil, undo lower arm from hub, undo shock from hub, undo large hub nut, manipulate hub so driveshaft comes out of it. Pull drive shaft out of diff.

      When putting new seal in it needs to put in straight as to avoid pinching it. The new seal is rubber coated in effect so as you try put it in, it can grab on the metal diff. I used a very large socket as a drift that was nearly the same diameter as the seal. You have to give the drift a few taps with hammer very careful to seat the seal properly.

      When putting the shaft back in, again carefull putting the toothed end through the new seal to avoid damage as there is an inner rubber flange on the seal that goes around the shaft. Then in short reinstall everything, not forgetting diff oil.

      There may be a few others little things I forgot to mention but that is the basic principle.
      Attached Files
      2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

      Previously
      88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
      92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
      92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
      99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
      95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
      08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

      Comment

      • craka
        Valued Member
        • Jun 2009
        • 2057
        • Newcastle (Newie)

        #4
        Thanks guys,

        Do you know if that is the same seal used on the diff with factory diff lock?
        What's required once the shaft is out to pull the old seal out?

        Also through the manual it mentions a slide hammer and adapter is that required?
        Last edited by craka; 29-06-20, 12:33 AM.
        NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

        Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

        Comment

        • aussieintas
          Valued Member
          • Feb 2013
          • 2191
          • Sorell, Tasmania

          #5
          Best way to work out if its same seal with or without diff locker is have a look at Partsouq.com, put your VIN in to get correct parts for you Paj.......I doubt it would be a different part number but better to be safe than sorry.

          To get the seal out i used a thin small crow bar to carefully, very carefully lever the old seal out, perhaps a large screwdriver may do the job. Just have to be careful not scratch the inner metal seat where the seal sits.

          To get the driveshaft out I didn't use slide hammer and puller. Used the same crow bar and again carefully levered out the shaft using the same spot where the puller sits on it. Perhaps a tyre lever or similar item should work.
          2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

          Previously
          88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
          92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
          92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
          99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
          95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
          08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

          Comment

          • craka
            Valued Member
            • Jun 2009
            • 2057
            • Newcastle (Newie)

            #6
            Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
            Best way to work out if its same seal with or without diff locker is have a look at Partsouq.com, put your VIN in to get correct parts for you Paj.......I doubt it would be a different part number but better to be safe than sorry.

            To get the seal out i used a thin small crow bar to carefully, very carefully lever the old seal out, perhaps a large screwdriver may do the job. Just have to be careful not scratch the inner metal seat where the seal sits.

            To get the driveshaft out I didn't use slide hammer and puller. Used the same crow bar and again carefully levered out the shaft using the same spot where the puller sits on it. Perhaps a tyre lever or similar item should work.

            Yes sorry, I i discovered that last night. Appears to be the same part used.

            Thanks the info. I'll order a seal and give it a go.
            NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

            Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

            Comment

            • craka
              Valued Member
              • Jun 2009
              • 2057
              • Newcastle (Newie)

              #7
              Well I've just started doing this now, I'm yet to pull the shaft out but, the one thing I didn't think about is the circlip number 9 on the diagram. Is that reusable or does it need replacing once I pull the shaft out?
              Attached Files
              NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

              Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

              Comment

              • Two Emms
                Valued Member
                • Jan 2020
                • 1358
                • Mansfield, Vic

                #8
                It's marked as "non-reusable" in that diagram

                If you haven't got too far, it may be best to reassemble and order one.

                You could push on but if there's wearing on the sides of the circlip, you shouldn't use it.

                Bit of a coin toss which option to choose
                2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent 200 catch can, Boos bash plates (full set), Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, Titan fridge slide, Kings springs, Toyo Open Country AT3s, Auto-mate, Ultragauge, Uniden 8080s, Tanami x11, more to come...

                Comment

                • craka
                  Valued Member
                  • Jun 2009
                  • 2057
                  • Newcastle (Newie)

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Two Emms View Post
                  It's marked as "non-reusable" in that diagram

                  If you haven't got too far, it may be best to reassemble and order one.

                  You could push on but if there's wearing on the sides of the circlip, you shouldn't use it.

                  Bit of a coin toss which option to choose
                  Funny enough I haven't got that far. Got as far as trying to remove wheel sensor and it seem not want to play politely as yet.

                  Hmm, seems the part, the circlip, is not available through Partsouq either.
                  NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

                  Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

                  Comment

                  • Two Emms
                    Valued Member
                    • Jan 2020
                    • 1358
                    • Mansfield, Vic

                    #10
                    Well that's not ideal

                    Maybe you can get one from a mitsy dealer

                    Depending on how soon the vehicle has to be back on the road, l'd be tempted to push on and hope the circlip is ok. If you get to it and it's worn, deal with it then.

                    Even if you can't get a "genuine" one, it may be a standard size. At least with it in your hand, you can measure it up.
                    2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent 200 catch can, Boos bash plates (full set), Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, Titan fridge slide, Kings springs, Toyo Open Country AT3s, Auto-mate, Ultragauge, Uniden 8080s, Tanami x11, more to come...

                    Comment

                    • craka
                      Valued Member
                      • Jun 2009
                      • 2057
                      • Newcastle (Newie)

                      #11
                      I'm one of those fortunate people that have a work vehicle to get around if I get caught out.

                      Currently trying to get the lower control arm bolt out. The online service manual states to use a jack under the control arm to compress the spring, however it seems as I do that the bolt is still firmly in there. For my mind I cannot see how that helps with getting the lower control arm bolt out?

                      It does help with getting the lower strut bolt out though.

                      Edit: Sorted have both lower bolts out of the lower control arm now. Work on the rest tomorrow.
                      Last edited by craka; 03-10-20, 07:53 PM.
                      NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

                      Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

                      Comment

                      • Two Emms
                        Valued Member
                        • Jan 2020
                        • 1358
                        • Mansfield, Vic

                        #12
                        Have look at this vid. Might be helpful when you refit the lower arms. Watch for how he uses a strap to pull the arm forward.

                        If you have previously fitted rear springs, you're probably aware of this trick but I just thought it worth a mention

                        This is a DIY guide to fitting a suspension lift kit in a Gen 4 Mitsubishi Pajero / Montero. UPDATE: Buy your strut spacers here if you can't make your own. ...
                        2016 NX GLS Factory alloy bar, Provent 200 catch can, Boos bash plates (full set), Stedi light bar, 40 litre Waeco, Titan fridge slide, Kings springs, Toyo Open Country AT3s, Auto-mate, Ultragauge, Uniden 8080s, Tanami x11, more to come...

                        Comment

                        • craka
                          Valued Member
                          • Jun 2009
                          • 2057
                          • Newcastle (Newie)

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Two Emms View Post
                          Have look at this vid. Might be helpful when you refit the lower arms. Watch for how he uses a strap to pull the arm forward.

                          If you have previously fitted rear springs, you're probably aware of this trick but I just thought it worth a mention

                          https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9avQNkfUyPw
                          Thanks for that. I didn't do the shocks myself, so I haven't but I do remember reading something to that affect with the strap. The highlights it though. Thank you.
                          NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

                          Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

                          Comment

                          • craka
                            Valued Member
                            • Jun 2009
                            • 2057
                            • Newcastle (Newie)

                            #14
                            Hmm, this is probably a stupid question to ask now, considering where I'm up to, but for the cv shaft spline to come out of the hub and the the diff end spline come free from the diff, does the vehicle need to be in neutral with the handbrake off?

                            I've got everything loose on the hub knuckle apart from the toe in arm.

                            I can get the shaft to move inward from the hub however I can seem to get to move any further, than what's shown in the pictures.
                            Attached Files
                            NS SWB X 3.2DiD - Factory locker, Hella spotties, GME UHF, 2" lift

                            Retired: 1991 NH SWB 3.0L V6 5sp Manual, Mickey Thompson ATZs, GME UHF TX3200.

                            Comment

                            • Jasonmc73
                              Valued Member
                              • Jun 2019
                              • 2692
                              • Brisbane

                              #15
                              I've never removed the axle mate but maybe remove your hub, if the axle don't wanna come out of the hub?

                              Presume you found this below

                              Replacing the rear wheel bearing on a 2008 NS Mitsubishi Pajero (aka Montero aka Shogun)Tools• 17mm socket• 12mm socket• 36mm socket• Pliers• Hammer• Torque ...


                              & that pesky inner snap ring circlip may also need to fight with him to remove from the inner according to workshop manual.

                              Last edited by Jasonmc73; 05-10-20, 07:20 AM.
                              Mitsubishi Pajero NX MY16 GLS with Sand Grabba floor mats, Ultragauge, Automate & Paddle gear shifters with Vlads traction control mod, Nautia switch panel, ARB compressor, Redarc Tow Pro, Anderson plug, Bushskinz front & rear alloy plates, Kaon light duty cargo barrier & rear door table

                              Comment

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