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Generation 4-1 Pajero NS Model 2006 - 2009

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  #1  
Old 08-12-11
Rich Rich is offline
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Default Delete pipe, first impressions

What can I say!

I got got caught up with the euphoria and promises of the delete pipe.

Well igot it installed today.

I did not do it, I had my local mechanic do it, luckily. I would not have been able to do it myself.

Instalation
There are no instructions but what goes where is fairly obvious

The bolts holding the sensor and those small silver pipes would not come undone. The guy had to put some heat on them to get them undone
The bolts on the DPF came undone ok with some silicon spray

The gaskets I were sent we're two small, the holes did not match the bolts and the gasket did not cover the pipes very well, so new gaskets required.

On my car there is a couple of @*$#bracket welded to the DPF to hold the thin silver pipes, no such thing on the delete pipe . @*$#He put some cable ties around them , not to sure how hot those pipes get. Seems to be working ok.

We did not use the bolts provided by chipit as the bolts on my PAJ are welded in.@*$#

The rest of the install went ok,@*$#

Started the car, no warning lights or error codes came on. I took it for a longish drive and so far no error codes.

I found that a couple of rattles I had have disappeared, I am sure those silver pipes were scraping on something, they don't any more. There is another noise I hear when I go over a bump, it is like a thud, not sure but that may have gone as well, need more testing on that one.

I did not get the EGR plate installed, one problem at a time.

@*$#HOWEVER!!!
I now have a new problem.@*$#
When accellerating I find that when I get to 2000rpm I head a real loud knocking/scraping noise. I took it back to the guy and he thought it was the sensor hitting something. He did a quick adjustment but no joy I have to take it back tomorrow. It is funny if I am a bit over or under @*$#2000rpm it is ok. Well see tomorrow.

Only went for about a 30-40km drive and reckon
No noticeable improvement in performance or fuel economy (may be). I need a better test but so far no good.

In summary

I don't have much luck with mods, I seem to have some residual problem with most of them.@*$#

This job was much bigger than I thought. I was going to do it myself as what is supposed to be done is fairly straight forward but it ended up being a lot harder and given I am constrained for level space where to do it And do not have the tools required it was best to get some one else to do it. The down side is it cost a Lot. Due to the problems encountered it went from what was supposed to a quickie to a long job.

The benefits of the pipe have not been shown yet but it is early days, so maybe a bit harsh to say no gains.

I have gone backwards, I now have a hew problem!!!

I got the pipe as I was thinking of getting a chip some time in the future .
I@*$#should have invested in a snorkle @*$#instead @*$#

Any way enough of a gripe from me

Rich

Ps I will let you know how I get on if ya like!
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Old 08-12-11
Merts's Avatar
Merts Merts is offline
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Hi Richard

When my mechanic installed the race pipe he also found the gaskets supplied were standard 3" ones and the pipes are 2.5", so very little overlap.

He put the pipe on just using exhaust cement.

When I decelerated I was getting a knocking sound. Turned out it was the flange connecting two of the exhaust pipes just forward of the rear axle. This flange was knocking on the chassis cross member, presumable as the engine moved forward slightly on the mounts under deceleration. There was very little clearance between this flange and the chassis. Not having the gaskets in would have contributed slightly to this, but regardless of the assertions of the guys from ChipIt, I'm not convinced that the race pipe isn't shorter than the factory DPF. We got a spacer about 10 or 12mm thick made up by an exhaust mob and put that between the race pipe and the exhaust pipe after it. No more knocking.

My mechanics also said one of the hanging brackets on the race pipe just didn't suit the hanger on the car, and they had to heat and bend it.

Apart from those issues, it does eliminate the pressure triggered regens, and the lower back pressure has improved power and fuel economy. Feels like a different car to drive.

I got some feedback from Robert at ChipIt regarding my recent DPF light on issue, and the likely culprit appears to be a damaged pressure sensor pipe. He was adamant that the distance triggered regens would have nothing to do with the DPF light coming on. I will get my mechanic to throw the car up on the hoist and have a look sometime over the next couple of days.
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Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto

ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.

Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
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Old 08-12-11
Rich Rich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merts View Post
Hi Richard

When my mechanic installed the race pipe he also found the gaskets supplied were standard 3" ones and the pipes are 2.5", so very little overlap.

He put the pipe on just using exhaust cement.

When I decelerated I was getting a knocking sound. Turned out it was the flange connecting two of the exhaust pipes just forward of the rear axle. This flange was knocking on the chassis cross member, presumable as the engine moved forward slightly on the mounts under deceleration. There was very little clearance between this flange and the chassis. Not having the gaskets in would have contributed slightly to this, but regardless of the assertions of the guys from ChipIt, I'm not convinced that the race pipe isn't shorter than the factory DPF. We got a spacer about 10 or 12mm thick made up by an exhaust mob and put that between the race pipe and the exhaust pipe after it. No more knocking.

My mechanics also said one of the hanging brackets on the race pipe just didn't suit the hanger on the car, and they had to heat and bend it.

Apart from those issues, it does eliminate the pressure triggered regens, and the lower back pressure has improved power and fuel economy. Feels like a different car to drive.

I got some feedback from Robert at ChipIt regarding my recent DPF light on issue, and the likely culprit appears to be a damaged pressure sensor pipe. He was adamant that the distance triggered regens would have nothing to do with the DPF light coming on. I will get my mechanic to throw the car up on the hoist and have a look sometime over the next couple of days.
Merts,
Could be.

I just had a quick look under the car, as now cooled.
I found that when I rocket the pipe a little I could a metallic bang, I thought it was the exhaust hitting something but could be what you had.

Also how did you fix the thin silver pipes, are they sensor pipes?, as mentioned I have cable ties around mine. Ther are no brackets to put them in as the brackets I had were welded to the DPF.

Rich
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Old 08-12-11
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Merts Merts is offline
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The pipes were just sort of swinging in the breeze. I mentioned it to the guy who fitted the pipe at the time and he said it didn't matter and would be okay. I reckon he was wrong!
My guess is that one of these pipes was either damaged when they fitted the pipe or has been since. I will post what I find out.

I'm going to get one of the scan guages from ChipIt as well and persevere with the EGR blocking. The car ran terrific with the race pipe and the EGR plate installed. I still reckon it is better than standard just with the pipe, but it felt like the turbo had been wound up a couple of notches with both mods installed.

PS. Get a snorkle as well. It's only money.....
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Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto

ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.

Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
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  #5  
Old 08-12-11
Rich Rich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merts View Post
The pipes were just sort of swinging in the breeze. I mentioned it to the guy who fitted the pipe at the time and he said it didn't matter and would be okay. I reckon he was wrong!
My guess is that one of these pipes was either damaged when they fitted the pipe or has been since. I will post what I find out.

I'm going to get one of the scan guages from ChipIt as well and persevere with the EGR blocking. The car ran terrific with the race pipe and the EGR plate installed. I still reckon it is better than standard just with the pipe, but it felt like the turbo had been wound up a couple of notches with both mods installed.

PS. Get a snorkle as well. It's only money.....
Can I quote you to my wife re snorkle
I had a bracket that holds those thin pipes break , it created a huge racket scraping against DPF.
The cable ties are working so far, may melt if get hot
Richard
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Old 08-12-11
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dwright74 dwright74 is offline
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I did the install at home and ran into same issues. I rounded one of the pressure pipes and destroyed the temp sensor ($275 for a new one).
I found that the front hanger did not line up with the car and had to bend it (not easy). I also found that the pressure pipes where drumming on the car body and making a hell of a racket. I reverses the screws to face them down and then cabled tied them.
I also noted that the "Chip it" logo us upside down, why would they do that?????

I was a bit peeved about no instructions (you can get instructions off there web site for the EGR plate install!) and this contributed to me breaking the temp sensor. A one page Tips sheet is all that was needed, not the best customer service (IMHO).

Still, now that it is in and working it does give me better economy, I'm not sure if I'm getting any more power out of the engine.

Cheers

Dave
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Old 08-12-11
Rich Rich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwright74 View Post
I did the install at home and ran into same issues. I rounded one of the pressure pipes and destroyed the temp sensor ($275 for a new one).
I found that the front hanger did not line up with the car and had to bend it (not easy). I also found that the pressure pipes where drumming on the car body and making a hell of a racket. I reverses the screws to face them down and then cabled tied them.
I also noted that the "Chip it" logo us upside down, why would they do that?????

I was a bit peeved about no instructions (you can get instructions off there web site for the EGR plate install!) and this contributed to me breaking the temp sensor. A one page Tips sheet is all that was needed, not the best customer service (IMHO).

Still, now that it is in and working it does give me better economy, I'm not sure if I'm getting any more power out of the engine.

Cheers

Dave
Dave,
Thanks for the reply.
How did you know you destroyed the temp sensor, did something show up. I think you may have posted else wher I will go looking.

The guy had trouble but knew what to do to overcome it. I would not.
Having chipit up side down just makes it confusing. With out instructions I was wandering where to install the bottle holder that came with it

I have no brackets for the thin pipes but cable ties work at the moment.

I am wandering if the noise I am hearing is due to the exhaust pipe not sitting properly after putting pipe in, it looks different but can't remember.

Richard

Just read, cutting it in half would be a good hint I reckon

Last edited by Rich; 08-12-11 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 08-12-11
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Merts Merts is offline
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I emailed ChipIt after the difficulties with the gaskets, the hanger needing to be bent and their pipe seeming to be shorter than the factory DPF.

Their response was that the race pipe was built using a jig from the original DPF and was therefor exactly the same. Also, hundreds of pipes had been fitted to NS Pajeros with no problem (they appeared to be suggesting that my mechanic had not fitted it correctly). Not too sure how you can stuff up fitting a pipe that only fits in one position and bolts up tight to factory bits on either end????

I wonder if they are slightly different exhaust systems on various date built NSs? I just went and checked and the compliance plate on mine says Feb 07.
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Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto

ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.

Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
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Old 08-12-11
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Merts Merts is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich View Post
Can I quote you to my wife re snorkle
Richard
Absolutely.
I'm an engineer.
Tell her I said it's very important that you get one.
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Merts
Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto

ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.

Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto
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  #10  
Old 08-12-11
Rich Rich is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Merts View Post
Absolutely.
I'm an engineer.
Tell her I said it's very important that you get one.
Will do.
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