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Generation 4-4 Pajero NX model 2014 -

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  #11  
Old 30-03-19
oscaroo oscaroo is offline
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I drove mine ... Firmly for the first 5000km
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  #12  
Old 31-03-19
Eski Eski is offline
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Return trip of 400km sat on 110 (115) got 12.4l according to read out did bowser calc at 11.1L = 3rd tank from new. Seemed to enjoy the run.
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  #13  
Old 04-04-19
markc markc is offline
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Running in these days is much easier than years ago.
General rules to follow,
1. Always allow 2min idle after start and before shutdown to circulate oil in a cold engine and allow a hot engines internals to cool down
2. Drive normaly with moderate throttle keeping revs in reasonable limits, say 1500 to 2700.
3. Dont lug the engine, dont idle for long periods or rev above 80% of redline rpm
4. Dont sit at constant rpm for extended periods, vary throttle
5, Its ok to use moderate throttle up hills to bed rings followed by an easy cruise to let things cool, hilly roads are good for running in.
6, Change oil around 5000klm, not prior as some manufacturers use a specific oil on the 1st fill to help rings bed in. Dont use a synthetic oil under 5000klm unless its specifically ok too and in the owners manual
7. Dont tow heavy loads for the first 0 to 3000~5000klm
8. Enjoy the new drive

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  #14  
Old 05-04-19
Nab Nab is offline
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I forget the details but an old mate who used to drive concrete trucks (when I lived in Adelaide) said the trucks that were brand new and driven flat out fully loaded from day 1 (up the freeway towards Murray bridge) were the ones that were the “quickest” and got the best fuel economy.

Just some food for thought!
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  #15  
Old 05-04-19
erad erad is offline
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In 2000, I bought a new NL Pajero. When it was delivered, I was in hospital and couldn't drive it for about a month, so my wife "ran the engine in" for me. Despite me telling her to work it harder, she steadfastly refused and drive it no more than 80 km/h for the first 1000 km. That engine burnt oil - typically 1 L for the first 2500 km after an oil change and then it used 1 L per 1000 km until the next oil change. I didn't like it, but oil was cheap. It was more a nuisance - I had to carry a litre of oil with me everywhere I went. At 235000 km, the engine was stripped down (my stuffup dropping a washer and not realising it), and the original honing marks were still quite plainly visible.

Modern engines are built to very fine tolerances, and do not require any special running in. Certainly, do not start the engine and take it out and thrash it to 6000 R/min without warming it up first, but let it warm up and then drive it normally, occasionally loading it up and then letting it run at light loads for a while. You have the cylinder bores to consider, and also the bearings. You stand a chance of glazing the bores if you don't load up the pistons properly, but remember the bearings, so make sure that the oil is warmed up properly before loading up the engine.
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  #16  
Old 05-04-19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erad View Post
In 2000, I bought a new NL Pajero. When it was delivered, I was in hospital and couldn't drive it for about a month, so my wife "ran the engine in" for me. Despite me telling her to work it harder, she steadfastly refused and drive it no more than 80 km/h for the first 1000 km. That engine burnt oil - typically 1 L for the first 2500 km after an oil change and then it used 1 L per 1000 km until the next oil change. I didn't like it, but oil was cheap. It was more a nuisance - I had to carry a litre of oil with me everywhere I went. At 235000 km, the engine was stripped down (my stuffup dropping a washer and not realising it), and the original honing marks were still quite plainly visible.

Modern engines are built to very fine tolerances, and do not require any special running in. Certainly, do not start the engine and take it out and thrash it to 6000 R/min without warming it up first, but let it warm up and then drive it normally, occasionally loading it up and then letting it run at light loads for a while. You have the cylinder bores to consider, and also the bearings. You stand a chance of glazing the bores if you don't load up the pistons properly, but remember the bearings, so make sure that the oil is warmed up properly before loading up the engine.



I bought a new harley 10 years ago and ran it in like an old woman!! Worst thing I could have done....Decided to power up the engine and at 8000klms the bores were glazed! As old mate said after a power rebuild...take it easy for 500klms - change oil -- -drive it like you stole it. It pulled like a 14 year old with a stick book after that!


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  #17  
Old 05-04-19
markc markc is offline
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It's always good to see what manufactures that really know what they are doing recommend.

Yanmar manufacture and convert diesel engines (some from toyota base engines) for marine use. These typical run at high loads and outputs for extended periods.

Have a read of page 14 that covers break in for the BY3 series of engines

https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/...BY0-G00301.pdf

This recommends 60~70% of load for the first 10 hours (1000 klm equivalent) of operation with the first 50hrs being critical and to avoid extended periods of idling and light loads.

Enjoy the read!
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  #18  
Old 05-04-19
BruceandBobbi BruceandBobbi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markc View Post
It's always good to see what manufactures that really know what they are doing recommend.

Yanmar manufacture and convert diesel engines (some from toyota base engines) for marine use. These typical run at high loads and outputs for extended periods.

Have a read of page 14 that covers break in for the BY3 series of engines

https://www.yanmar.com/media/global/...BY0-G00301.pdf

This recommends 60~70% of load for the first 10 hours (1000 klm equivalent) of operation with the first 50hrs being critical and to avoid extended periods of idling and light loads.

Enjoy the read!

We are talking Mitsubishi Pajero engines not Yanma boat motors. If all else fails read the Pajero Manual that came with your vehicle. Yes it is in there.
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  #19  
Old 07-04-19
markc markc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceandBobbi View Post
We are talking Mitsubishi Pajero engines not Yanma boat motors. If all else fails read the Pajero Manual that came with your vehicle. Yes it is in there.
Im 100% for following the manual. Priciples are the same to stop glazing bores and ensure seating of rings. dont lightly load or idle, dont run hard, do load up and drive normally using mid range rpm.
Mitsubishi manual has bugger all detail
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  #20  
Old 08-04-19
erad erad is offline
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As above - drive normally, don't thrash it. Let the engine warm up thoroughly and then drive it normally. When running it is, vary the speed as well. If you cannot vary the road speed, vary the engine speed by using different gears.

And remember that you are running in the whole vehicle, not just the engine. Transmissions like to be bedded in as well. Tyres too. Brakes - the list is endless.
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