Anti Lock, Active Stability Control Lamps On

[Rayw1]

Hi all,
I have an intermittent problem that just started while I was driving today.
The Anti Lock , Active Stability Control System and the Active Stability Control System (OFF) lamps have all come on. Initially I just put it down to a fuse, but while waiting for the traffic to move I turned the ignition off and on. Still there so thought wait until I get home and check the fuses. I left the car parked for 2 hours and then headed home. Noticed straight away that the lights were not on. As I was driving home after about 30 minutes all of a sudden all 3 lights come back on. I have stopped and started the car several times since the lights came on and it now seems the lights are hard on.

Any ideas? By my manual I can see that fuse no 15 in the passenger compartment fuse block is for the ABS but there doesn't seem to be a fuse for Active Stability Control. Is this right?

Thanks,
Ray.

[Wal]

Hi all,
I have an intermittent problem that just started while I was driving today.
The Anti Lock , Active Stability Control System and the Active Stability Control System (OFF) lamps have all come on. Initially I just put it down to a fuse, but while waiting for the traffic to move I turned the ignition off and on. Still there so thought wait until I get home and check the fuses. I left the car parked for 2 hours and then headed home. Noticed straight away that the lights were not on. As I was driving home after about 30 minutes all of a sudden all 3 lights come back on. I have stopped and started the car several times since the lights came on and it now seems the lights are hard on.

Any ideas? By my manual I can see that fuse no 15 in the passenger compartment fuse block is for the ABS but there doesn't seem to be a fuse for Active Stability Control. Is this right?

Thanks,
Ray.

Check the fuses under the bonnet. I had this happen after I put a faulty trailer plug into the system. Read the manual and replace the fuse it suggests regardless of what you see. Check your brake lights before doing this. If they don't work then it is definitely a fuse.

[tinks]

I had the same problem the day i brought my pajero, so took it straight back to them and demanded they fix it, they sent it back but it kept doing the same thing so i sent it back yet again, they loaned me a car which promptly broke down, anyhow took 4wks but the problem was the sensors (oxygen sensors I thought they said) anyhow there are 4 of them and because they couldnt tell which one was causing the problem they replaced all 4 (under new car warranty still). My symptoms were VERY similar to yours. Its a shame you dont live down our way cause the mitsubishi dealer i brought my car from the service department would know exactly what to look for now, they heard often enough from me lol lol But take it to your service department ask them to check the sensors

[Pickle]

Check the fuses under the bonnet. I had this happen after I put a faulty trailer plug into the system. Read the manual and replace the fuse it suggests regardless of what you see. Check your brake lights before doing this. If they don't work then it is definitely a fuse.

Make sure the vehicle is level if you are pulling these fuses out and replacing.
Dave

[icysyrup]

If its the ABS/TC/Brake lights that are coming on and they are staying on...try the fuses first and then if its not a fuse then check the Wheel speed sensor. There is one at each tire. I would bet its one of those that has went faulty. Here is pics of what I am talking about. The ABS sensors go bad from time to time. I have had to replace one on my NP

[chook]

I had a similar problem (see previous post) when I blew the hazard fuse due to faulty trailer wiring. As soon as the hazard fuse was replaced everything went back to normal.

[Rayw1]

Just to tidy up and list the solution.

Mitsubishi found an error indicating an open circuit in one of the wheel sensors. Eventually it was tracked back to the wiring connection in the A pillar. The locking lever which holds the wiring connection together was not in the lock position causing the wiring to come apart at the junction.

In looking back through the log history (before I owned the vehicle) there was a reference to an AS wheel sensor being replaced. I suspect that the wiring and sensor were replaced but the locking clip was not put in the lock position.

Bit disappointed that it took over 2 hours to find the problem but all fixed now.

[John McFarlane]

Why are you disappointed it took over 2 hours to find the problem?

I would have thought you would be glad it was found so quickly. Some members spend weeks (and lots of money) to find what turns out to be a simple solution to a confounding issue.

These cars are complicated. When you buy a vehicle with all the bells and whistles, you sometimes pay a price further down the line.

[Rayw1]

Hi John,
Yeah you're right. I was happy to have the problem fixed (and that it was simple). I was literally speaking through my wallet. LOL. I'll get used to these hitech computer gizmos eventually. I still tend to judge the value of everything against the cost of my first car - an FE Holden for $140! Apparently the price of stuff has gone up in the last 30 years!!

Ray.

[Jaster]

hmm ... I thought the price of "computer gizmo stuff" had come down. 1MB of RAM was about $100 when I got my first computer ... can get 4GB of the stuff for just over that price these days. Then again, with the price of everything else going up, it's probably a good thing

[tinks]

Took them 4 weeks to fix mine!! From the day i brought it, it had the issue and took it straight back 4 weeks later i finally had a fixed 4wd no problems since thank goodness

[garfield]

Hi All, I did a search on this subject, after having trouble with the anti lock lights coming on,the info was very useful.
I thought this extra info maybe useful to others.
I checked the sensors on each wheel, the rear ones required the rear wheels to be removed and the disc callipers to be pushed back out of the way. The rear sensors were very dirty and required a small paint brush to remove build up.
The front wheel sensors only required the wheels to be turned to opposite lock on each side to gain access. These sensors had nothing like as much dirt as the rear ones.
regards Garfield

[gary-s]

Hey guys, I am having an almost identical issue as the original post of this thread, but I am also getting my park brake light stay on also.

My brake and indicator lights are working properly, I have checked all the associated fuses and relays and all appear ok. The abs accumulator motor appears to be working fine as it runs for around 15 seconds when I first turn on the ignition. So I am leaning towards my wheel speed sensors, my question is will it be safe to drive the vehicle with this problem? Just checking as Im not sure if I should be driving to work in the morning, from what I read brakes should only be lost when the abs motor fails?

[icysyrup]

You will be fine driving it anywhere, u just won't have ABS. The faulty wheel speed sensor will cause an error and will just disable abs, NOT your brake.

[gary-s]

Thanks.

Found my problem, I checked the voltage of my aux battery and it was only 9v, I had been camping the night before and drained it. The redarc threw a excess current draw/volt drop fault and couldnt stay closed to charge the aux when driving back home. My fuse link box is also connected to that battery so the abs system was only getting 9v and wasnt happy. when given 12v the codes disappear.