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Generation 4-3 Pajero NW model 2011 - 2014

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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: NSW
Posts: 33
Default Battery tray tie down fix and modifying the tray for a bigger battery

Thought id put this up as I’ve seen a lot of post’s showing different mod’s.. and I wanted to join in on the fun

Well the little baby battery finally died and I took the opportunity to upgrade to a bigger battery thinking it would be as simple as pulling out the small insert tray and plonking in the new battery
Note to self: Nothing is ever simple

Three problems existed
1) Battery tie down insert’s had broken.. a quick look at google seems to indicate that everyone’s battery tie down insert’s break
(and before you tell me I over tightened them, I have never tightened them… this battery is the one from factory and had never been replaced.. nor has the car been off road (apart from when there is roadwork’s on the pacific highway)
2) When removing the small tray, you lose a bit of plastic that some say acts as a heat shield.. heat is “bad for batteries” says google….so I wanted to try and keep as much of this as I could
3) Negative terminal has a funny type of connection that needs to be modified and turned upside down to fit next to the larger battery again (well it did in my case)

First job…
Can’t remember what I did here and didn’t take any pics as I was just keen to get the car going again (hadn’t discovered the broken tie down insert yet)
I unbolted and turned the lug upside down.. had to cut off an edge with a hacksaw to get it to fit… you will see this edge when you try it..
In the end, it looked like this;
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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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Second Job
Re-do Battery tie down mounts..
Went to Bunnings and got these bracket’s….
Dunnings 60x60x140 H/Duty angle BCA42
Dunnings 60x100x35 H/dduty Angle BCA13
Dunnings 200x35 Bracket plate HD BP 14
Zenith Bolt and Nut M6x12 (note: you will need some spring and normal washers for these)
· Note.. if I were to do this again, I would probably look for a longer Bracket plate and use 2 x 60x60x35 angle brackets for the passenger side of the battery to create a frame that ran parallel to the long side of the battery (not sure if Im making sense right now)

I joined the Big bracket plate and the larger angle like this to that I could use both mounting holes on the passenger side for support…(note one bolt is up and one down intentionally due to clearance)
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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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Then sat the main battery tray on top so the brackets looked like this
Note: I had an issue where I couldn’t get the original bolts into the original holes.. I thought that this might have been due to the thickness of the bracket vs the length of the bolt…. so removed the washer and spring nut from the bolts (replacing them with one washer)
In hindsight,. This issue might have been to me not being able to get enough downward force with my socket as there seemed to be plenty of turns on the bolt when I used a normal spanner
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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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P.s do yourself a favour and cut off the original lug’s.. I didn’t originally and had to go back and do it again

Last edited by nicho; 27-08-16 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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Third job
Modify the small tray
I stole this idea from this guy, so credit where credit is due
https://www.ourtraveldiaries.info/in...attery-tray/2/

Basically, make a few cut’s.. heat it over a burner and bend it into place like this


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Old 27-08-16
nicho nicho is offline
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Then put it all back in and lock in the lug’s like this




Then tighten it as hard as you want whilst making derogatory comments about the fker who designed those original fiberglass lug’s that keep failing…

Turning the car back on resulted in the little yellow light with the picture of the car skidding turning on
Drive around for a few minutes.. stopping the car and hitting the button near your left knee that looks the same as this picture will soon turn it off
(not going to call it what I call it as I have seen a lot of debates on what it is and what its called)
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Old 27-08-16
erad erad is offline
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When I had my battery replaced, I didn't need to modify the earth connections at all. I thought I may have to but it all fitted OK. I used an angle grinder to cut most of the old plastic battery tray, and then a knife to finish off where the grinder couldn't get to. A jigsaw would have done the job as well. MY tiedowns are not broken (yet!) and my vehilce has done quite a bit of off-road stuff.

Yes - the idiot lights came on after I removed the battery (when the battery guy replaced it, he had a separate source plugged in and nothing was disturbed). Thanks to this forum, I didn't panic and drove a short distance and all lights went out - phew.
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Old 27-08-16
spot01 spot01 is offline
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I did basically the same thing with the plastic insert modification when I installed the N70 size Supercharge battery.

The negative cable only just reached (with a bit of persuasion to make the cable straight) in both my NW & NX, so it may be that the cable varies slightly in length in some cars, or the terminals are located slightly differently? I like the idea of reversing the connector, as this would make the cable a better fit.

When fitting a larger battery, always check the clearance from the terminals to the bonnet before closing, particularly if height has been added by changing the tray, etc.

The ASC light will illuminate after disconnecting the battery, but will go off after a short drive, so nothing to worry about.
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Old 27-10-16
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Rusty1 Rusty1 is offline
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This is a great mod Nicho. Thanks very much. Did it today and now it's off to find a battery. Can't understand why MM don't do this as standard. Like most others I've been through 3 batteries in 5 years and been back to the stealership 3 times. They reckon everything is within spec. Obviously they don't pay for batteries. 😃😃
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