Did my valve clearances today.

[Morville]

At TDC1 both no 1 cyl. valves will be have some free play and the no 4 valves will be tight.
At TDC4 it will be vice versa ie no1 will be tight and no 4 free. It can be felt by trying to move the cam follower.
The motor turns in a clockwise direction looking from the front.NEVER turn it backwards or the chain tensioner can be damaged.
Peter

[Goodsy]

To clear that up. The assembly has nothing to hold it in place in a counter clockwise direction so turning your motor that way will bend "stuff".

[Morville]

I'm not sure and I need to check, but I think the camshafts turn in the opposite direction to the motor. Why do I think this way? The chain tensioner will then be on the non driving side of the chain and the tensioner will be able to take up any slack.
What do others think?
Which way did you turn the camshafts, Goodsy?
Peter

[Rich0]

I've been meaning to check my valves for some time. I got my crankcase cover out, read all the threads, but chickened out at the last minute.

Before bailing on the idea I did get to TDC by turning the alternator, I didn't remove the glow plugs and found it quite easy.

I used a socket wrench to turn the alternator CLOCKWISE when facing the engine, I did notice the crank DOES turn the opposite way to the motor.

Hope this was correct?

[hinsch]

To get TDC I jacked the rear wheels off the ground, put it in first gear (Manual) and got somebody to turn the wheel until the markings line up on the flywheel.
My daughter turned the wheel so it cannot be to hard unless she would still be whinging some six months later.
Adjusted the valves turned through 360 and double checked everything before putting things back together, check twice do once.

[Rich0]

I'm not sure and I need to check, but I think the camshafts turn in the opposite direction to the motor. Why do I think this way? The chain tensioner will then be on the non driving side of the chain and the tensioner will be able to take up any slack.
What do others think?
Which way did you turn the camshafts, Goodsy?
Peter

Any word on this? I'm a bit paranoid that when I turned my alternator 1/4 turn clockwise, that was the wrong way and my chain tensioner may need a reset!!

[Goodsy]

The timing chain goes around the outside of all sprockets so cams turn the same direction as the crank.

Edit, Think of the crank as the crank on a bike and the cams as the wheel.

[Paganini]

Hi everyone.
I have been looking into this for a while. The crankshaft turns clockwise, there is a gear on the crankshaft that drives another gear an this one drives the timing chain, it turns anti clockwise. So both camshaft sprockets turn anti clockwise. The timing chain is always tensioned on the left hand side( looking into the motor) as it is pulled down by the crankshaft while the chain tensioner is located on the other side.
Please someone correct me if I am wrong,
Regards
P

[Morville]

I would say you are spot on Paganini. Clockwise is the correct way to turn the alternator pulley to turn the motor over. I beg to differ with you Goodsy, the cam gear rotates in the opposite direction to the motor.
Peter

[PradoEater]

new seals or gaskets????

do you have to replace any gaskets or seals? or existinf can be reused?
other treads mentions rocker gasket set for around 100 or so dollars.

[Morville]

I think it is general practice to replace the 4 injector seals in the rocker cover, however if the old ones are not damaged in removing the cover and they look ok it is probably safe to use them again. It may pay to buy a new set beforehand in case, they can be used later if not needed now. The rocker gasket should be ok for several removals.
Peter

[Goodsy]

I think it is general practice to replace the 4 injector seals in the rocker cover,

I did bad practice. The seals were fine so I used them again.
But it wouldn't hurt.

[grhyso]

I think it is general practice to replace the 4 injector seals in the rocker cover, however if the old ones are not damaged in removing the cover and they look ok it is probably safe to use them again. It may pay to buy a new set beforehand in case, they can be used later if not needed now. The rocker gasket should be ok for several removals.
Peter

Just had mine done at it's 90,000 service by a reputable 3rd party mechanic. They replaced them all. They weren't leaking but were wet (you know where all the dust sticks and you can see it's moist but no drips etc). They also said they'd usually re-use them unless they're leaking and they'll only use genuine as the non genuine are generally not reusuable in this instance. $140 for the genuine set.

[Axis]

I think it is general practice to replace the 4 injector seals in the rocker cover, however if the old ones are not damaged in removing the cover and they look ok it is probably safe to use them again. It may pay to buy a new set beforehand in case, they can be used later if not needed now. The rocker gasket should be ok for several removals.
Peter

Just picked up a top chain guide from MM ($28) and also the injector seals - not 100% I got the right ones as there was confusion on which seal it was. I have a feeling I got seals for the injector leads rather than the fuel lines.... I presume these are the seals to replace.

They gave me part MN158385 - anyone know if this is correct?

Cheers.

[Axis]

Did my valves and replaced the chain guide on the cup weekend. Was going to do the inlet manifold but got worried about the time as the wife was getting annoyed I was working on the Paj. Will still do it when I can as I got approx a cup of gunk cleaned out from the air inlet pipe (what a pain).



I followed the guide from the New Triton forum posted here http://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/...+goodsy&page=5 by Andrew. Just stopped before removing inlet manifold.

I also noted Goodsy's input on the same thread and this one - Thanks guys!

I had weeping from the injector lead seals in the rocker cover - I replaced these (part MN158385). Did not replace the injector seals in the rocker cover as I couldn't get to MM in time to pick them up - and luckily they looked OK. I will keep them for next time (don't have part no. handy).

Only thing I would do next time is take more pics. There were a few brackets that stumped me when putting everything together.

I found the inlet valves on the whole a bit loose - a couple were OK, none too tight. Half the exhaust valves were spot on and half loose. The middle exhaust valves were a bit of a pain to get to.



Timing chain guide was OK - replaced it anyway. There was just a little wear but no cracking. Old one was stamped Feb '07.



New guide went in fine - I maintained tension on the chain with 2 spanners while I changed it as I was paranoid about the tensioner. The manual I used http://pajero.2de.ru/ says 24NM +-4 for the top guide bolts. I have seen on the Gen 3 section people saying 33NM. I did it to 28NM.



All in all I took my time to do this. Lots of checking posts on the forum. Being able to successfully complete this has increased my knowledge of the Paj and also my confidence. Never done work like this on a car before. Also checked my EGR block plate and it looked good - no sign of fatigue.

Once it was all together I primed the fuel filter for ages, still took a few goes to start but all good and no issues so far (bit over a week and a couple of hundred K's later).

Cheers,
James