Mods to reduce Engine Air Inlet and ATF temperatures.

[Onsan]

Great test work on the intercoolers earlier!
I'm guessing the HPD intercooler tested would now be known as "series 1", any thoughts on the "series 2" version?
Do you think this might narrow the gap with the Jonnytig intercooler?

https://hpdiesel.com.au/mitsubishi-pajero-2008-series-2.html

[old Jack]

Great test work on the intercoolers earlier!
I'm guessing the HPD intercooler tested would now be known as "series 1", any thoughts on the "series 2" version?
Do you think this might narrow the gap with the Jonnytig intercooler?
https://hpdiesel.com.au/mitsubishi-p...-series-2.html

Just looking at the photos of the series 2 Intercooler upgrade, the 2 upper "L" brackets that attach and support the intercooler to the front upper cross member, look susceptable to fatigue cracking, based on their design. The front upper crossmember could also crack with this sort of design bracket. Without seeing and checking if there are lower support brackets to share the load, I cannot say for sure, but the alarm bells are ringing.

OJ.

[Onsan]

Yes they look pretty flimsy, especially for what they may have saved on a $1500 kit.

[pjchris]

The third photo on that web link clearly shows the inter cooler has ears welded on and bolted to the radiator support panel at the same level as the bottom of the headlights.
Looks like the top brackets are just there to stop vibration.

Peter


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[old Jack]

The third photo on that web link clearly shows the inter cooler has ears welded on and bolted to the radiator support panel at the same level as the bottom of the headlights.
Looks like the top brackets are just there to stop vibration.

Peter

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Peter,

I looked at the 3rd photo on a larger screen and it appears the bottom mounts are substantial and more than adequate so I think you are correct in saying the top mounts are for stabilisation of vibration. I think I can also see a spacer between the upper crossmember and the "L" brackets, these might even be a rubber isolation mount???

I am wondering if the "L" bracket is required because of the grille shape?
Normally a straight support with a 45 degree angle at both ends would be a better design.

OJ.

[DaKaptin]

Wow well i have just found this thread and find it very interesting indeed. Forvive me if i misinterpret anything as i have struggled to follow some of the technical descriptions offered here.

I have a Kaon guard and wonder if what you are all talking of with the "baffles" refer to the sides of the guard??

https://www.facebook.com/KAONAust/videos/1759954754089357/

This above link shows the KAON guard installation.

Of note is the design if the IC guard on the ends - that it wraps around the sides a bit.

Is this sort of thing what you refer to as "Baffles"??

I dont have an OBD reader as of yet however have always had it in my mind id get one, so i have no idea what my temps are doing lol

[old Jack]

The Kaon front guard is nicely closed in at the sides so the ram airm is not escaping.
We proved that once the side of front guards were closed in then you also do not need the front cooling slots. These cooling slots add very little ram air but weaken the guard plate significantly, and also allow sand and mud to enter and build up at the base of the radiator and around the intercooler which leads to elevated air intake temperatures and coolant temperatures.
The guys that make most underbody guards are sheet metal workers and do not understand aerodynamics so are of the belief that air vents in the front of an angled plate results in more airflow through the heat exchangers. Their designs are flawed and we have proven this!

Note: you cannot just cover the front slots up, the sides of the intercooler guard must extend upwards and prevent the ram air from escaping. We have tried just covering up the slots and inlet air temperatures increased!

OJ.

[oscaroo]

I can't find any pictures of the baffle you speak between the bullbar and the body. I understand the winglets on the side of the plate because there's a picture. But i don't also understand how air gets into the intercooler if the front holes are blocked. Are any front holes left unblocked?

Maybe you mean to cover up the gap left between the bullbar and body? My smartbar leaves about 15cm just open. I'm guessing that is just covered up horizontally? Or does the covering extend down to the intercooler plate?

[nj swb]

I like the look of that Kaon guard - if a Johnny Tig intercooler wasn't on the long term wish-list I think I'd be seriously considering a trade-up.

[outbakjak]

OK so is the Kaon guard the best one? I have a series 4. Totally confused, if I should order the Kaon and request no cooling slots? Every one seems to go Bushskinz etc

[old Jack]

This is quite an old thread.
Yes Bushskinz have been the go to underbody guards for many and for a longtime but we concluded there are better designs than the Bushskinz.
On Pajero 12's NW which has a genuine MM steel bar, we did both the rubber air baffle mods and the Bushskinz mods at the same time. The result was no more blockage of the intercooler by a build up of sand and a significant reduction in engine operating temperatures.
So going by what we learnt the Kaon Guard looks to be the best design and without any cooling slots.
However this theory was never proved or if it was it was never reported.

OJ.

[outbakjak]

OK thanks. Yes old post. Might see if Kaon will do it without the slots

[old Jack]

I have found the dimensioned drawings of the rubber baffle mods we made that suit the MMAL steel bullbar. The file size is quite large but I can email it to you if you PM me your email address. this was a simple and cheap mod that had outstanding results in reducing engine operating temperatures.

OJ.

[jaffles]

Logic does't match however if Mitsubishi have air flow from their flimsy bash plate, to replace it with a solid plate with side wings would improve airflow.

Its seems the wings or baffles on the plate has a positive effect, however more air volume to help cooling is the goal. I'm thinking like in race cars they use an inlet that channels air via ducting. Would replacing the fog lights with this type of idea is of benefit?

Also seems to be a bull bar thing, surly a hole could be drilled in the bar to create an inlet, then using fittings from air cleaners or the like something could be made.

[Dicko1]

Logic does't match however if Mitsubishi have air flow from their flimsy bash plate, to replace it with a solid plate with side wings would improve airflow.

Its seems the wings or baffles on the plate has a positive effect, however more air volume to help cooling is the goal. I'm thinking like in race cars they use an inlet that channels air via ducting. Would replacing the fog lights with this type of idea is of benefit?

Also seems to be a bull bar thing, surly a hole could be drilled in the bar to create an inlet, then using fittings from air cleaners or the like something could be made.

I have the genuine Mitsy steel bullbar. Has plenty of slots for ventilation. Very happy at the temps for my car after I added extra slots and side wings in the Bushskinz plate.. In the top end we get very hot driving conditions and even towing 2 tonne in hilly (and I mean hilly!) conditions the most I,ve seen is about 102 degrees on a long , hard haul. The torque converter lockup kit also helps here as it keeps transmission temps way down.