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The dreaded flashing centre diff lock light is driving me mad

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  • carnut1100
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2019
    • 35
    • brisbane

    The dreaded flashing centre diff lock light is driving me mad

    Ok...I’ve searched and I’ve read everything I can find on this issue...but I still haven’t solved it or seen my exact set of circumstances...

    2011 NT auto.

    I was out doing some tracks, and came over a crest where I dragged the bash plate a bit, just after that the flashing orange light of doom inserted itself into my life...

    I did the obvious, checked for a broken wire or anything looking out of place, but found nothing.
    Checked the front diff actuator, seems to be working fine.

    Tried doing continuity tests on the switches on the transfer, and nothing seems to follow any logical pattern.

    Transfer seems to have defaulted to 2H and won’t try to engage anything else.

    Now the ASC light has joined the party...

    Anybody got any ideas for diagnosing it?
    Anyone in Brisbane with a scan tool to look for codes?
    I can’t afford to just throw new switches and sensors and stuff at it until it goes away...
  • spot01
    Valued Member
    • Apr 2011
    • 4711
    • Adelaide

    #2
    Have you cleaned the ABS wheel sensors & tried the "battery lead off for 5 minutes" reset?
    Pajero NX MY21 GLS

    Comment

    • carnut1100
      Junior Member
      • Jun 2019
      • 35
      • brisbane

      #3
      Originally posted by spot01 View Post
      Have you cleaned the ABS wheel sensors & tried the "battery lead off for 5 minutes" reset?
      Battery lead off, but not for 5 minutes...Will try that today.


      Wheel sensors no, but ABS still works..although ASC is now telling me.its off...


      I need a code reader...being an NT diesel jumpering the OBD doesn't work.
      Anybody got recommendations on what works ancient too expensive? Tip, a $5 ELM327 off eBay doesn't work...

      Comment

      • spot01
        Valued Member
        • Apr 2011
        • 4711
        • Adelaide

        #4
        Originally posted by carnut1100 View Post
        Battery lead off, but not for 5 minutes...Will try that today.


        Wheel sensors no, but ABS still works..although ASC is now telling me.its off...


        I need a code reader...being an NT diesel jumpering the OBD doesn't work.
        Anybody got recommendations on what works ancient too expensive? Tip, a $5 ELM327 off eBay doesn't work...
        Note after the battery lead is back on, the ASC light will stay on until driven a short distance.
        Also, make sure the front wheels are straight ahead when doing the battery reset.
        Pajero NX MY21 GLS

        Comment

        • aussieintas
          Valued Member
          • Feb 2013
          • 2191
          • Sorell, Tasmania

          #5
          Have you checked the centre diff lock detection switch and associated wiring hasn't been dislodged or damaged. See pic below. There was a post on here somewhere that someone found the wire had broken to one of the transfer switches but was internal not the outer sheath of the wire.
          Attached Files
          2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

          Previously
          88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
          92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
          92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
          99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
          95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
          08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

          Comment

          • carnut1100
            Junior Member
            • Jun 2019
            • 35
            • brisbane

            #6
            Originally posted by aussieintas View Post
            Have you checked the centre diff lock detection switch and associated wiring hasn't been dislodged or damaged. See pic below. There was a post on here somewhere that someone found the wire had broken to one of the transfer switches but was internal not the outer sheath of the wire.
            That's the next step... physically removing and checking every switch... code reader says c1456 transfer case switch error.

            Comment

            • aussieintas
              Valued Member
              • Feb 2013
              • 2191
              • Sorell, Tasmania

              #7
              Use the on line tech manual, link below.

              2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

              Previously
              88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
              92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
              92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
              99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
              95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
              08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

              Comment

              • nj swb
                Resident
                • Jun 2007
                • 7332
                • Adelaide

                #8
                Originally posted by carnut1100 View Post
                That's the next step... physically removing and checking every switch... code reader says c1456 transfer case switch error.
                I think this is the logical next step.

                There are some long bolts protruding through the floor pan above the transfer that don't have a lot of clearance to the switches, such that a few of us have had switches damaged. If your "belly out" pushed the transfer up it's possible that you now have a damaged switch.

                If this has happened to you, consider cutting the bolts shorter (presuming you drop the rear of the transmission / transfer assembly) or work from inside the cabin to identify the offending bolts and swap for shorter.
                NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 ST Maxx, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

                Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

                Scorpro Explorer Box

                Comment

                • carnut1100
                  Junior Member
                  • Jun 2019
                  • 35
                  • brisbane

                  #9
                  Originally posted by nj swb View Post
                  I think this is the logical next step.

                  There are some long bolts protruding through the floor pan above the transfer that don't have a lot of clearance to the switches, such that a few of us have had switches damaged. If your "belly out" pushed the transfer up it's possible that you now have a damaged switch.

                  If this has happened to you, consider cutting the bolts shorter (presuming you drop the rear of the transmission / transfer assembly) or work from inside the cabin to identify the offending bolts and swap for shorter.
                  So it turned out that the wire had been pinched in half about 50mm from one switch...quick solder and heatshrink and back in business...

                  Comment

                  • Clem
                    Junior Member
                    • Mar 2009
                    • 41
                    • Lawnton, QLD

                    #10
                    Food for thought

                    Hi, I own a Pajero NP and for months I had the same problem and like you I was very frustrated. Finally I've replaced the Front Diff Solenoid Valve also known as the Freewheel Clutch Control. Here is the link where you should be able to find the part for your car. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Fit-90-0...item3fc113f66f Regards Clem
                    Originally posted by carnut1100 View Post
                    Ok...I’ve searched and I’ve read everything I can find on this issue...but I still haven’t solved it or seen my exact set of circumstances...

                    2011 NT auto.

                    I was out doing some tracks, and came over a crest where I dragged the bash plate a bit, just after that the flashing orange light of doom inserted itself into my life...

                    I did the obvious, checked for a broken wire or anything looking out of place, but found nothing.
                    Checked the front diff actuator, seems to be working fine.

                    Tried doing continuity tests on the switches on the transfer, and nothing seems to follow any logical pattern.

                    Transfer seems to have defaulted to 2H and won’t try to engage anything else.

                    Now the ASC light has joined the party...

                    Anybody got any ideas for diagnosing it?
                    Anyone in Brisbane with a scan tool to look for codes?
                    I can’t afford to just throw new switches and sensors and stuff at it until it goes away...
                    "LOVE MY CAR"

                    Comment

                    • jjacer
                      Senior Member
                      • Nov 2011
                      • 257
                      • Brisbane

                      #11
                      Originally posted by carnut1100 View Post
                      So it turned out that the wire had been pinched in half about 50mm from one switch...quick solder and heatshrink and back in business...
                      Nice one

                      Comment

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