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Inlet intercooler removal NS Diesel

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  • gyro64
    Junior Member
    • Mar 2011
    • 37
    • Adelaide

    Inlet intercooler removal NS Diesel

    Hi Tried to drop down my intercooler to clean it out. Only dropped down so far and because the inlet and outlet pipes point outwards could not get it out of the vehicle. Would need to remove the oil cooler pipes to have any hope of getting it out i think. Has anyone any clues on this. I'm trying to get the oil out of it as i have a catch can now and thought i would clean any residue oil out of it?

    Cheers Paul
  • Bazooka
    Member
    • Apr 2012
    • 134
    • Fraser Coast Queensland

    #2
    Hi Paul,

    Have you been able to get your intercooler out yet?

    I tried to do mine today and have not a clue on how to get access to the bottom clamp on the I/C intake without stripping parts off the coolant system.

    My Gregorys Service and Repair Manual is a bit vague but doesn't mention anything about having to crack into the coolant system to get to any clamps.

    I managed to get the I/C pulled down far enough to get to the hose clamp on the outlet but couldn't get the hose off due to a space restriction and it being stuck tightly in place.

    I ended up putting it all back together pending some tips on the best way to tackle it.

    I shouldn't imagine removal of the NP I/C is too different to the NS.

    Any help much appreciated

    Cheers - Bazooka
    2004 NP 3.2 Auto Exceed, 410,250+k's, OME Suspension w/2-inch Lift, ECB Aluminium Bullbar, Under-bonnet Dual Batteries. Engine rebuilt at 401,595k's.

    Comment

    • rykiel575
      Senior Member
      • Sep 2017
      • 289
      • Sydney

      #3
      Cant help with removal but ive read posts on here that said residual oil was quite minimal from the intercooler.
      2012 NW Pajero GXL 3.2L

      Comment

      • Bazooka
        Member
        • Apr 2012
        • 134
        • Fraser Coast Queensland

        #4
        Originally posted by rykiel575 View Post
        Cant help with removal but ive read posts on here that said residual oil was quite minimal from the intercooler.
        Hi rykiel575,

        I've read prettymuch the same, but my original I/C has a leak (oil stain bottom right hand side) from previous damage so I want to change it out myself if possible.

        Hopefully it is easier than it seems.

        Cheers.
        Last edited by Bazooka; 27-01-19, 10:17 PM. Reason: To correct name tag
        2004 NP 3.2 Auto Exceed, 410,250+k's, OME Suspension w/2-inch Lift, ECB Aluminium Bullbar, Under-bonnet Dual Batteries. Engine rebuilt at 401,595k's.

        Comment

        • RUGGA
          Valued Member
          • Nov 2014
          • 1373
          • Adelaide

          #5
          Originally posted by Bazooka View Post

          I managed to get the I/C pulled down far enough to get to the hose clamp on the outlet but couldn't get the hose off due to a space restriction and it being stuck tightly in place.

          I ended up putting it all back together pending some tips on the best way to tackle it.

          I shouldn't imagine removal of the NP I/C is too different to the NS.

          Cheers - Bazooka
          I have taken my IC out but I did it at the same time as putting in a new radiator and doing a trans fluid change - you know, all the stuff you don't want to have to deal with, just to have a look in the IC I don't remember too much drama but by the sounds It just may have been easy cause the rad was out? Only thing I do remember was that the IC clamp screws/nut drive WHERE in stupid positions, not obvious positions like up and/or down.
          02 NM 3.2, Auto, Exceed, I/C and sump guards, L&B 2" lift, 265/75/16 OPAT2.

          Comment

          • Bazooka
            Member
            • Apr 2012
            • 134
            • Fraser Coast Queensland

            #6
            Hi RUGGA,

            Yes I can see it would be a lot easier with the rad out. I suspect it might even be possible to wiggle it out with the bottom section of the intake hose left on, provided that the really bendy outlet hose is removed. This would allow for better maneuverability to get the intake side out.

            I might get a quote from MM - they may have some tricks up their sleeve and can get it done without pulling the rad. It's not a big job if that is the case.

            Thanks for the reply..
            2004 NP 3.2 Auto Exceed, 410,250+k's, OME Suspension w/2-inch Lift, ECB Aluminium Bullbar, Under-bonnet Dual Batteries. Engine rebuilt at 401,595k's.

            Comment

            • old Jack
              Regular
              • Jun 2011
              • 11606
              • Adelaide, South Australia.

              #7
              Have a read of Section 15 Intercooler removal and installation in thr online service manual. Looks pretty straight forward.



              OJ.
              2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
              MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

              Comment

              • Bazooka
                Member
                • Apr 2012
                • 134
                • Fraser Coast Queensland

                #8
                Originally posted by old Jack View Post
                Hi OJ,

                Thanks for the link. It seems at least the rad shroud cover has to come off which looks like I would have to drop at least some coolant to remove the top rad hose. And I would have to drop all coolant if the bottom rad hose has to come off as well.

                Just how much rad stuff that needs to come off to get the I/C out is not clearly stated in this .ru compilation of the manual, unless of course I'm missing something. I'll have another read but I'm thinking that with my limited tools and space, it will be an MM job unfortunately.

                Cheers Bazooka
                2004 NP 3.2 Auto Exceed, 410,250+k's, OME Suspension w/2-inch Lift, ECB Aluminium Bullbar, Under-bonnet Dual Batteries. Engine rebuilt at 401,595k's.

                Comment

                • RUGGA
                  Valued Member
                  • Nov 2014
                  • 1373
                  • Adelaide

                  #9
                  At the bottom of the radiator is a draining tap, place large clean bucket under and drain (re use coolant later). Take off radiator cap, turn tap to drain radiator. Undo hoses (can start undoing top hose first as radiator has drained a bit but leave bottom till radiator is empty) Undo air intake and then un click shroud (half way down, on the shroud edges)

                  Its also soo close and simple to being able to pull the radiator out now if you wanted/needed to as long as you're willing to disconnect the trans lines at the bottom of the radiator ???

                  Ps. dispose of bucket/container appropriately after re using the coolant
                  02 NM 3.2, Auto, Exceed, I/C and sump guards, L&B 2" lift, 265/75/16 OPAT2.

                  Comment

                  • Bazooka
                    Member
                    • Apr 2012
                    • 134
                    • Fraser Coast Queensland

                    #10
                    Hi RUGGA,

                    I hate to sound negative but if I get that far and find the trans lines need to come off so I can remove the rad to be able to remove the I/C, then I'd be in another area of unfamiliararity, and going further than I could reasonably be able to manage.

                    Any work I do on the Paj is done wholly inside a single garage in a unit so not a lot of room to get too involved.

                    But, it'll get done one way or another.

                    Thanks for your help
                    2004 NP 3.2 Auto Exceed, 410,250+k's, OME Suspension w/2-inch Lift, ECB Aluminium Bullbar, Under-bonnet Dual Batteries. Engine rebuilt at 401,595k's.

                    Comment

                    • RUGGA
                      Valued Member
                      • Nov 2014
                      • 1373
                      • Adelaide

                      #11
                      We can only do, what we can, when we can.

                      Lets hope there is a member nearby who could possibly help.

                      I wish you well.
                      02 NM 3.2, Auto, Exceed, I/C and sump guards, L&B 2" lift, 265/75/16 OPAT2.

                      Comment

                      • Bazooka
                        Member
                        • Apr 2012
                        • 134
                        • Fraser Coast Queensland

                        #12
                        Originally posted by RUGGA View Post
                        We can only do, what we can, when we can.

                        Lets hope there is a member nearby who could possibly help.

                        I wish you well.
                        Hi RUGGA,

                        I've got it booked at MM to get done. I was quoted an hour for the job and it will save my knuckles, potentially crap all over my garage floor and a whole bunch of cussing. Well worth sub'ing it out in my circumstance.

                        Thanks for the guidance anyway mate
                        2004 NP 3.2 Auto Exceed, 410,250+k's, OME Suspension w/2-inch Lift, ECB Aluminium Bullbar, Under-bonnet Dual Batteries. Engine rebuilt at 401,595k's.

                        Comment

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