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  • pajeronl1999
    Junior Member
    • Dec 2019
    • 2
    • S.a

    timing belt question

    hi im new at mechanics and started doing my timing belt, i forgot too line my cams up and crank, i removed the timing belt and the drivers side cam sprung back, when the cam springs back would that damage the valves? any info would be helpful
  • tomwithannl
    Valued Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 705
    • Maria Coast Tasmania.

    #2
    Simple answer, no it won't. Just be careful when turning the crank and cams by hand to line up the timing marks.Easiest way now you have the belt off is to put the crank between tdc and bdc so none of the pistons are at the top of the cylinders then turn the cams till the marks line up then turn the crank till its marks line up then you are set to put the new belt on.


    Tom
    1998 NL GLS 3.5 Auto. Bocar alloy bar with 13000lb I-Max winch & engine watchdog.
    1953 Morris Minor ute
    1990 Nissan Scargo van (The SNAIL)
    2005 Mercedes ML350 Special Edition 4Matic

    Comment

    • disco stu
      Valued Member
      • Dec 2018
      • 3106
      • Wollongong

      #3
      Other option if you're really worried is to back off the bolts holding the rocker gear down so they aren't pushing the valves down. That will also stop the cams from wanting to rotate while moving things around. Just don't pull the rockers off the engine in case one of the hydraulic lifters drops out

      Comment

      • pajeronl1999
        Junior Member
        • Dec 2019
        • 2
        • S.a

        #4
        Originally posted by tomwithannl View Post
        Simple answer, no it won't. Just be careful when turning the crank and cams by hand to line up the timing marks.Easiest way now you have the belt off is to put the crank between tdc and bdc so none of the pistons are at the top of the cylinders then turn the cams till the marks line up then turn the crank till its marks line up then you are set to put the new belt on.


        Tom
        Where is the BDC position on the crank?

        Comment

        • disco stu
          Valued Member
          • Dec 2018
          • 3106
          • Wollongong

          #5
          Easiest way is to put a long rod down the spark plug hole to feel when the number 1 piston has bottomed out, then continue to rotate until it's at the halfway point. Just make sure you lift the rod with the piston raising as it has a habit of jamming when piston is moving up if it's not exactly centre etc.

          I personally would back off the rocker bolts like I mentioned above, leaving each bolt in the head one turn. That will mean you can line up belt and timing marks without anything trying to rotate and crank at to dead centre, but whatever you're most comfortable with

          Comment

          • tomwithannl
            Valued Member
            • Jan 2010
            • 705
            • Maria Coast Tasmania.

            #6
            Originally posted by pajeronl1999 View Post
            Where is the BDC position on the crank?
            Exactly opposite TDC.

            Tom
            1998 NL GLS 3.5 Auto. Bocar alloy bar with 13000lb I-Max winch & engine watchdog.
            1953 Morris Minor ute
            1990 Nissan Scargo van (The SNAIL)
            2005 Mercedes ML350 Special Edition 4Matic

            Comment

            • disco stu
              Valued Member
              • Dec 2018
              • 3106
              • Wollongong

              #7
              Hang on.....my head was all over the place-listen to Tom!! I'm overseas and not thinking obviously!

              Comment

              • Ebtauna
                Junior Member
                • May 2020
                • 1
                • Burpengary

                #8
                Torque spec’s

                Help,
                Have 96 Pajero 3.5ltrs NK petrol which has oil leaks under the timing belt cover.
                Removed the cover and discovered dark marks in the crankshaft and driver side cam sprocket area. I ave just replaced the crankshaft oil seal. But overnight I have found a tiny pool of oil under the crankshaft area. Can’t figure out where it’s coming from.

                Also, also the I’m using a haynes manual and some torque specs are not shown.
                Can anyone direct me an online site etc where I can find a full range of torque specs for the veh I have

                Much appreciate your help.

                Comment

                • pharb
                  Valued Member
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 1038
                  • Tyers,Vic

                  #9
                  Very easy to knock the spring out from the inside of the seal when fitting. The seal contacts the step in the crank at the same time as touching the outer housing when installing, so almost impossible to tell if any resistance is the seal touching awkwardly on the step on the crank, or just the interference fit into the housing.

                  Youngest son and his mate did this on his NL early in the year. Started pouring oil out. I removed the seal they fitted, unfortunately by levering out with a screwdriver, effectively damaging the seal beyond repair.

                  I then cut up an aluminium soft drink can (or it might of been a VB can they left lying around) into a flat sheet of aluminium, curled it around into a slightly conical cylinder with the bigger end a tight fit on the step in the crank, and being easily able to slip the new seal over the smaller end, then pushed the seal home.

                  Once secure I pulled the sheet aluminum out.

                  It never leaked for at least 2 months, at which time he went and haned the car over to Mitsubishi due to being fitted with airbags.
                  PCOV Member 1107.
                  Daily driver NX GLX
                  Semi retired NL GLS 3.5 (no airbags) in almost prestine condition to replace NJ.
                  Virtually fully retired NJ 2.8TD
                  Previously - NB LWB, NA SWB.

                  Comment

                  • Allan2
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2013
                    • 389
                    • Mid Nort Coast, NSW

                    #10
                    Also, always lubricate the rubber lips of any new oil seal that you are installing it will last longer also makes installing the moving part easier. Just use the oil that the seal is going to be running in.
                    I have heard seals making a noise when dry.
                    Allan
                    2009 NT, 3.2 Auto, D/Lights & Light Bar, EGR mod, Sump and Inter Cooler Guards, Tow Bar, Bog Standard.

                    Comment

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