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  • stufishing
    Junior Member
    • Jun 2007
    • 13
    • Brisbane

    Extended Servicing

    HI All, What are you guys doing for extended servicing? My 2003 NP DiD has just hit 226k. It is on original diesel pump. I have parked it "in the garage" and bought a Mazda 3 to run around in while I sort this NP out cause it is badly neglected. It really badly needs full suspension rebuild ( tyres chewed out in 20k), cost quoted at $4000 approx. This includes diff bushes. This is heavy duty springs and 50mm lift stuff, which got absolutely caned on a lap of Aus. So I think this is realistic repair needed. I'm going to do that later, I want to get the motor sorted out first.

    The car has not been serviced since 195k, so seriously ( keeps me awake at nights sort of seriously, but if you have no money you can't fix it ) needs a service, but the Service book has run out of service coupons.So I bought another dirt cheap car to let me fix it up. I know I am at the point where I need to do some serious servicing. I have had the top Chain guide replaced at what I think was about 160k.

    Do I Just start again at 0k and follow the service book again?? I think I should go back to 180k Service and start again, but what do I do after that?

    I have spent the last month thinking about what to do whilst driving my "new" 2wd. And the decision is to fix this NP whilst I have the luxury of not needing it to drive, because I can't afford to buy a newer one, and this one has been so great to us. I wonder if I should get the diesel pump serviced?

    Any thoughts would be really appreciated, thanks guys
  • Nab
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 1410
    • Perth

    #2
    Starting again at “0km” with all new fluids, filters, belts and tappet adjustment would be a great if the service history is a bit sketchy. The book basically just repeats itself anyway.
    SOLD 2004 NP 3.2 auto
    NOW 2014 Ranger XLT auto

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    • aussieintas
      Valued Member
      • Feb 2013
      • 2191
      • Sorell, Tasmania

      #3
      Yep as Nab says start again with all new oils, filters etc.
      2014 VW Touareg V6 diesel

      Previously
      88 NF Exe SWB 2.6 manual
      92 NH Gls LWB 3.0 auto
      92 NH J-Top 2.5 manual
      99 Landcruiser Gxl 4.5 manual with all the fruit
      95 NJ Gls SWB 3.0 auto
      08 NS Vrx SWB 3.2 auto​

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      • stufishing
        Junior Member
        • Jun 2007
        • 13
        • Brisbane

        #4
        OK Thanks. I will plan on starting again at zero in the book.

        So far, Ive replaced Oil, Oil filter, Fuel filter, Replaced Transmission fluid and Cooler Hoses, Blanked off EGR valve and repaired Bash Plate Mounts.

        Then I think I will take it to a mechanic to get the intake manifold cleaned, Valves adjusted, check timing chain guide and gaskets changed to hopefully stop oil leak.

        Then I need to work out how to change diff and transfer case fluids and remove the intercooler to clean out all the crud blocking it.

        Comment

        • psproule
          Valued Member
          • Jun 2007
          • 3680
          • Googong, NSW

          #5
          Recently I pulled the sump plug on a friend's LN104 Hilux that "missed a couple of services" and developed rod knock. What came out was literally the consistency of tar. One otherwise reliable 2.8 in the bin. Mate, even if you do nothing else - oil and filters every 10 to 15k. The 3.2 pre CRD runs fairly dirty, and oil full of diesel soot turns to sludge real quick.

          Re the suspension - did a full refit to our NP at about 250,000. Worth the effort but a lot of work. Had the bushes pressed out but in hindsight would have been cheaper to purchase new fully fitted arms. Dont go poly. They are already stiff enough.

          Pat
          2016 Mitsubishi NX Pajero GLX
          2011 Landrover Freelander II SD4

          Comment

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