Engine oil

[BruceandBobbi]

Everything? Hahaha oh reeeeeally.
Funny thing is that your using 5w-40 in your pajero.

Now I get it. You have a comprehension problem.

I didn't say everything. I said almost everything.

Next. I didn't say 5w-40. I said 5W-30.

[Lance]

Ohh dear......our NZ friend is not winning very much is he......

Maybe he should relax a little and contemplate his next post before he hits the 'Submit' button.

[nj swb]

Hi Oldtimertruckie,

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on scoring the Pajero.

You've certainly stirred up a few people with this thread! Good job!

In my experience, if somebody is truly knowledgeable, it comes through in what they post - they do not need to tell you they're knowledgeable.

I'm also wary of anybody who uses phrases like "everybody knows" and "those in the know". In my opinion, this is nothing more than a passive-aggressive attempt to exert dominance, and discourage others from questioning their opinions. Truly knowledgeable people are confident in their knowledge and welcome questions, as they are happy to share what they know.

Anybody who doesn't understand the meaning of oil viscosity numbers shouldn't be giving advice on oil. And any advice on oil should generally start with asking about intended use.

i was given castrol 10 lt drum but now im not going to use its 10w 40 but just want to keep my 05 pajero running smoothly (1 st timer owner and being ex truckie 35 odd yrs it time to get to see our big country) and most of it will be towing a 20 ft caravan around so thanks for your input and very greatfull for your above replys hope to hear you reply on here on brands and filters # very interesting reading this site is and im one happy retired driver cheers from steve dimboola vic

If you're towing a 20 ft van around Australia then the oil purchasing habits of Kiwis and Poms isn't terribly relevant. Towing a significant load will make your engine work harder - coolant temp, intake temp, transmission temp (if you have an auto), exhaust gas temps will all be higher when you're lugging a van - so your engine oil temp will also be higher, so your oil will be thinner.

Working hard at higher boost pressures your cylinders are creating a higher Brake Mean Effective Pressure (or BMEP). Long story short, your pistons are pushing harder, so your crankshaft bearings are experiencing more force, and the lubricating film is experiencing more pressure. If the oil is too thin there is a greater risk of the two metal surfaces pushing aside the oil and coming together. That's generally not good.

I would not go any lower than 10W-40, and I certainly wouldn't tow with it for long distance, or anywhere in summer.

I would recommend a 15W-40 when you need to buy some oil, possibly higher if you're planning long trips through the centre in summer (why would you? ) Maybe a 15W-50, or even 20W-50, depending on the quality of oil you plan to buy, and how long you intend to go between changes.

If you're dedicated to regular oil changes, I don't believe you need a synthetic, but there is no harm in using them. If you want to extend your oil change intervals, particularly when towing, synthetics are more advisable.

I think any of the major oil brands are acceptable - not Big W home brand or similar. Use any brand name you trust, the most important thing is to use the correct classification of oil - for which you need to refer to your owners manual. Don't rely on the Supercheap or Autobarn website to tell you which oil - find what's recommended by Mitsubishi in your owners manual (it will offer a range of viscosities, and some other minimum classifications that must be met). If you're not sure what it all means, we can help to explain it - if you can post what's in your manual.

If you don't have a manual, let us know - I'm sure another member can post pictures of the relevant pages from their manual for an 05 NP. Generally speaking, we're here to help.

[Oldtimertruckie]

To all that replied to my questions wow it was never to be a shit fight on here between so many people im really sorry for some of the name calling and disputed replys im a old time retired truck driver love what i did and very new to be a pajero owner ( ford man myself and ALLWAYS did my own services and most repaires ) but honestly im 100% new to owning a 4x4 and owning a caravan held a b double licence for over 25 yrs and multicombination lic since i was old enought to get done a few million klms with only one yes 1 ticket against me but now its a new life of 4x4 and caravaning so please every body stop all the crap on here and be cool to every body if you want to reply to a post do it but with respect for your fellow travelers and i just wanted some information on the best products available to me to keep my pajero in great condition so thanks for all the fun reading and reply s i hope you all dont take it out on any body any more my moto is respect and listen to those who have done the job b4 im just needed a response to my enquiry ok and i did not axk for drama s here so thanks to every one here and i will be asking for more information to a lot of things that im new to ( old saying dont know ask ) cheers from a respectable old time driver who will do most any thing to help a fellow travelers cheers steve dimboola vic

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[Oldtimertruckie]

Special thanks to swb on you reply im gratefull for your comments and i would never buy cheap home brands oil or coolant but again i learning the tricks of the trade now lol lol lol and thanks again understood where u were come from cheers again old time truckie

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[BruceandBobbi]

To all that replied to my questions wow it was never to be a shit fight on here between so many people im really sorry for some of the name calling and disputed replys
Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk

Welcome oldtimer. No need to apologize.

The board does get a bit spirited at times but hey there is nothing wrong with that.

The thing that newcomers/know it all backyard mechanics don't realise is there are at least three engineers of different areas here with incredible knowledge. They don't flaunt it and I won't name them.

Also being the internet there is the normal share of old wives tales. Backyard gossip plus a mate told me his cousins friends brother told her.....

Having said that the 'good oil' here is first class.

[Oldtimertruckie]

Thanks Bruce & bobbi cheers

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[saj]

Hi Oldtimertruckie,

Welcome to the forum, and congrats on scoring the Pajero.

You've certainly stirred up a few people with this thread! Good job!

In my experience, if somebody is truly knowledgeable, it comes through in what they post - they do not need to tell you they're knowledgeable.

I'm also wary of anybody who uses phrases like "everybody knows" and "those in the know". In my opinion, this is nothing more than a passive-aggressive attempt to exert dominance, and discourage others from questioning their opinions. Truly knowledgeable people are confident in their knowledge and welcome questions, as they are happy to share what they know.

Anybody who doesn't understand the meaning of oil viscosity numbers shouldn't be giving advice on oil. And any advice on oil should generally start with asking about intended use.





If you're towing a 20 ft van around Australia then the oil purchasing habits of Kiwis and Poms isn't terribly relevant. Towing a significant load will make your engine work harder - coolant temp, intake temp, transmission temp (if you have an auto), exhaust gas temps will all be higher when you're lugging a van - so your engine oil temp will also be higher, so your oil will be thinner.

Working hard at higher boost pressures your cylinders are creating a higher Brake Mean Effective Pressure (or BMEP). Long story short, your pistons are pushing harder, so your crankshaft bearings are experiencing more force, and the lubricating film is experiencing more pressure. If the oil is too thin there is a greater risk of the two metal surfaces pushing aside the oil and coming together. That's generally not good.

I would not go any lower than 10W-40, and I certainly wouldn't tow with it for long distance, or anywhere in summer.

I would recommend a 15W-40 when you need to buy some oil, possibly higher if you're planning long trips through the centre in summer (why would you? ) Maybe a 15W-50, or even 20W-50, depending on the quality of oil you plan to buy, and how long you intend to go between changes.

If you're dedicated to regular oil changes, I don't believe you need a synthetic, but there is no harm in using them. If you want to extend your oil change intervals, particularly when towing, synthetics are more advisable.

I think any of the major oil brands are acceptable - not Big W home brand or similar. Use any brand name you trust, the most important thing is to use the correct classification of oil - for which you need to refer to your owners manual. Don't rely on the Supercheap or Autobarn website to tell you which oil - find what's recommended by Mitsubishi in your owners manual (it will offer a range of viscosities, and some other minimum classifications that must be met). If you're not sure what it all means, we can help to explain it - if you can post what's in your manual.

If you don't have a manual, let us know - I'm sure another member can post pictures of the relevant pages from their manual for an 05 NP. Generally speaking, we're here to help.

Thx for taking the time to explain it . I've learnt alot more on this forum than any mechanic has explained to me in the past..cheers

[pharb]

Wow, spend a day at work and missed all the entertainment.

My NX owners manual states 20w50 for temps of -10 to 50 and above, 15w40 for temps of -15 to 50 and above, and 10w30 for temps of -20 to 50 and above.
Needs to be API classification of CD or higher, which is actually a very low API standard. I would suggest any oil marketed as "diesel" in Australia would exceed this standard.
15w40 is probably the most common viscosity of diesel engine oil in Australia.
From that I would suggest you use an oil that has the middle of the weight range that matches your most frequent atmospheric temperature you expect to travel in.
If living in Dimboola, and planning to travel Australia I would suggest 15w40 would be a good comprimise. 10w40 would also be fine, but it is possibly equally, probably even more important to pay attention to "C?" classification. And the "B?" classification. What is the actual"model" of oil?
Very unlikely to see under -10 degrees whilst exploring Australia for fun. Might be different if you were forced to visit a particular location for work, such as when I have had to get a dozer going after the fuel froze when it snowed overnight in the Victorian High Country, in February.

I am pretty sure my NJ 4M40 powered Paj has the same oil requirements.

A couple of comments I would like to throw in.

Commercial operators who use diesel engines (ie transport, earthmoving, agricultural...) don't use the cheapest products available. They use the most economical. If you expect 1 to 2 million km out of your trucks you don't skimp on oil. Breakdowns and downtime are a huge cost. Not decent quality oil. I will admit that my example earlier of "cheap" oil in the log trucks was still more expensive than no name oil, and it was only trucks that had nearly 1,000,000km on the clock we had issues with. About half the fleet.

Car, light commercial engines are definitely different to heavy duty, large diesel engines. How often does a light commercial engine have to operate at almost full throttle for hours at a time. We have had trucks not able to exceed 90km/h the entire trip from Geelong to Mt Gambier due to head winds. 500km, with a huge % of trip at close to full throttle.

How often would a light commercial operate at almost 100% throttle for hours at a time.

Light commercial engines can tolerate mediocre engine oils. Heavy engines can't if used as they were designed.

Of course this is only my opinion developed from keeping an open mind whilst doing courses, reading technical literature, speaking to the technical help lines at a variety of oil manufactures and what I have come across as a Heavy Stream Earthmoving mechanic. I will also admit I haven't learnt much from maintaining the families 4 x 4m41 powered Tritons, and a variety diesel and petrol Pajeros, and the odd Lancer and Magna, and a Canter.

Because they don't break down they have not offered me much education. Service to Mitsubishi specs and they just keep going.

Cricket? Haven't watched a game on telly for probably 20 years. I saw something about some carpentry work with sand paper a year or so ago. Was that something to do with cricket?
Rugby. Never watched a game. It is something NSW and Qld get all upset about a few times a year isn't it?
Netball? I think my wife watched a game or 2 sometime recently. She said someone won. I thought she was probably right. Some one usually wins.

Anyway. I'm off to watch some Youtube videos to see if I can better educate myself, then I might read a few Footrot Flats.

Got every one

[Oldtimertruckie]

Service book says sae 20 w 40 brand go with a known quantity oil think this is best for 3.2 diesel 2005 mitsubishi pajero with just over 200 thousand on clock it had 1 PREVIOUS owner with very regular services done religiously ( as per service history ) and will be service every 7/ 8 thousand klm so lets hope all go well thanks to all who replied

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[RUGGA]

wow it was never to be a shit fight on here between so many people

Hi Ott (oldtimertruckie), all you did was ask a reasonable question.

It seems you are retired now. congrats.

Now...Goodness knows that I am not one to stir shit....... lol ,....................... Have you heard about adding 400ml of 2 stroke oil (2T mineral) into a tank full of diesel ??? . Just wait for that Poo fight lol

Work out how to read up on all the amazing Gen3/4 popular issues, opinions and strong advice. Heaven forbid we bring up issues pertaining to the EGR delete, inlet manifold issue, HBB, towing in auto or 4th (manual mode) etc, etc, ???

Anyway, I have to agree with the comment regarding the people that offer the most concise detailed information in this forum, they never look for validation. In fact they choose to share their personal time and learned knowledge of either Experience or schematics understandings, often followed by a link. Therefor i find this forum much more mature than the FB crowd who are happy to often Shout their often one time theory, declared as Gospel so loud.... IMHO

Dont apologies any more Ott, just spend some time here and filter the info for yourself BUT still ask when you need help.

[Gus]

Please note

Hi all, you’ll note the thread has had a few posts removed, Admin/mods are here for a reason. If you or another feel bullied, or discriminated against bring it to the attention of the Admin Team. Nothing wrong with a little robust conversation or even disagreeing with another member. Again if disinformation or a post is made that you feel is wrong we have no problem with it being reported.. What we don’t want on “OUR”, (which is here for us to all enjoy & share information), forum is name calling & allowing it to effect the flow of a topic being discussed..

Gus
On behalf of the Admin/Mods Team.

PS. Dave & I may review & edit some posts those effected will get a PM.

[Jasonmc73]

Ahhh, the old oil thread, . . . . guaranteed to bring out the worst in some. I work in an industry where lubrication is very topical, we have approximately 10 tonnes of oil installed, ranging from very light hydraulic spindle oils through to 1000 cst full synthetics. The very best quality oils we use are PAO types, they are specifically for high speed screw compressor lubrication. The quality is reflected in the price, very expensive but required to ensure the needs of the machine design are met. The point I make is that all oils are formulated to meet specific requirements. The lubricant specification table in the manual gives you a choice and none of those choices will directly cause an engine failure. So it is basically up to you as the end user. Price comes into it, it always does, even in industry. Make your selection and stick with it. Read and research, there's a plethora of information out there. Me,. . . . I use Caltex Delo 400 Multigrade 15W40. Yep, here in Tassie. Same as we run in all the mine trucks with the latest generation engines at Euro 4 and 5 specs. Works for me. Oh, and the 'W' - that stands for winter, the ability of an oil to flow quickly around an engine when cold. Don't let 'em tell you anything different. Golden rule - the first 100 turns of the crankshaft is when all the damage happens and never, ever cane it when it's cold. Cheers, Dennis

I agree with Dennis