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My NS - ongoing mods
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I fitted my TJM snorkel yesterday.
Thanks to these posts for preparing me
I started fitting my breathers while I waited for the paint on the drilled holes to dry. The front and rear diff were easy enough. I haven't done the transmission and transfer yet, but thanks to this great forum, I at least know where they are.
I mounted the breathers here. There were holes in place perfectly matched to the mount. I believe some VIN plates are mounted here.
Link to useful diff breather post
I wanted to keep the original washer tank as the TJM one is quite small and my winch solenoid is mounted where it would go. I had a crack at plastic welding using my soldering iron and heat gun today. I cut out a section of the TJM bottle to cover the hole. It seems strong enough, but leaked like a sieve so I have now coated the seam with silicone and will test it again tomorrow. (photo is pre-silicone)
I'm also trying to isolate a knocking noise that started when I replaced my suspension. I think it may be the way the rear springs (Dobinsons) sit in the top spring pads. It looks like they were pushing part of the rubber pad aside (at the very end of the spring) and touching the metal. I spent some time carefully re-seating one of the springs tonight, so I will see how that works. The springs also seem to touch the sides of the top seat area a bit. Interestingly the the original springs had a plastic split tube around a portion of them near the top, starting from the second loop and covering about one more loop. I put them back on when I replaced the spring pads a couple of weeks ago, but they made a horrible creaking noise so I removed them again.
BTW, in searching for the knocking I have checked: the jack mount, the rear door rubber cup, the exhaust, the bushes (as much as I can tell, I'm no expert), removed everything from the back of the wagon. I'm pretty sure its the suspension. It started when I fit the new springs and shocks.
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With the types of tracks around here I've taken a few knocks to the rear, so I thought I'd have a crack at building a new rear bumper section. If nothing else, it was a great excuse to buy a pipe bender. After some trial and error I discovered (read online) these benders really need at least schedule 40 pipe for good clean bends, so I'm using 48.3mm OD 4mm thick (40mm nominal bore) pipe.
It's a good little bender, and I managed to fashion some sections with two bends on different angles without too much hassle.
Luckily my Pajero comes with a built in pipe un-bender for when I go a bit too far
This is where I am up to now. I have bit more cutting and a lot of welding left to do.
I need to make another bracket for the left side. It will have to bolt together to fit past the exhaust pipe
I'm still deciding how to fill the gaps between the pipes, but I'm considering using aluminium (for weight) tread plate riveted onto tabs
I'm getting an ARB commercial bull bar fitted when it arrives as the local dealer had a good deal during an open day. I'll have a chat with their fabricator about getting brush (or scrub) bars made for the front. I would do them myself, but they are usually made from a thinner pipe than I can bend.
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Originally posted by rgrubby View PostWith the types of tracks around here I've taken a few knocks to the rear, so I thought I'd have a crack at building a new rear bumper section. If nothing else, it was a great excuse to buy a pipe bender. After some trial and error I discovered (read online) these benders really need at least schedule 40 pipe for good clean bends, so I'm using 48.3mm OD 4mm thick (40mm nominal bore) pipe.
It's a good little bender, and I managed to fashion some sections with two bends on different angles without too much hassle.
[ATTACH]44371[/ATTACH]
Luckily my Pajero comes with a built in pipe un-bender for when I go a bit too far
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This is where I am up to now. I have bit more cutting and a lot of welding left to do.
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[ATTACH]44376[/ATTACH]
I need to make another bracket for the left side. It will have to bolt together to fit past the exhaust pipe
[ATTACH]44375[/ATTACH]
I'm still deciding how to fill the gaps between the pipes, but I'm considering using aluminium (for weight) tread plate riveted onto tabs
I'm getting an ARB commercial bull bar fitted when it arrives as the local dealer had a good deal during an open day. I'll have a chat with their fabricator about getting brush (or scrub) bars made for the front. I would do them myself, but they are usually made from a thinner pipe than I can bend.07 NS 3.2 X SWB with towbar, 17' Steel rims, Bilstein Shocks and Lovell Springs, Gun Metal Grey, ARB front and rear lockers, reduction gears, ARB colour coded deluxe bullbar, custom rear storage.
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Originally posted by dwright74 View Postnice work, looks like you're enjoying modding the Paj. When I made a rear wheel cover bracket to cover the bigger tyre and hold my wheely bin, I filled the tube with sand to help minimise the crushing on the tube.
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Originally posted by rgrubby View PostThanks. I tried sand in my thinner walled pipe and it helped a bit, but I still couldn't get great bends. With 4mm I didn't need to fill it. Did you completely remake the frame? I saw a gen 4 on a video on YouTube the back cover removed and it looked good, I might try it when this is done. The tubular look could fit with the rear bar07 NS 3.2 X SWB with towbar, 17' Steel rims, Bilstein Shocks and Lovell Springs, Gun Metal Grey, ARB front and rear lockers, reduction gears, ARB colour coded deluxe bullbar, custom rear storage.
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Originally posted by rgrubby View PostThanks. I tried sand in my thinner walled pipe and it helped a bit, but I still couldn't get great bends. With 4mm I didn't need to fill it. Did you completely remake the frame? I saw a gen 4 on a video on YouTube the back cover removed and it looked good, I might try it when this is done. The tubular look could fit with the rear bar
How are you going to finish the 2 pipes that point to the rear wheel? Will have to have a smooth bend as any protrusion not smooth or rounded would be deemed unroadworthy.Dicko. FNQ
2014 NW with all the usual stuff plus more.
TIME....1000 times more valuable than money
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Originally posted by Dicko1 View PostHow are you going to finish the 2 pipes that point to the rear wheel? Will have to have a smooth bend as any protrusion not smooth or rounded would be deemed unroadworthy.
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I guess it's time for an update. I mostly finished the rear bar. I also got an ARB Commercial bar fitted and made some brush (scrub) bars for it.
I have to say the aesthetics of the rear bar won't be for everyone. I'm still not sold on it, I may start again.
However I also have to say it has served its purpose well taking some decent knocks. The tread plate is 2mm aluminum. It is coated with a raptor type of bed liner
Jousting anyone?
The photos only show one bolt at the front of the bar, but there are now three.
There are also plenty of scratches now
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Once upon a time, we always had "half scrub bars" installed. Usually welded to steel bull bars.2009 NT DID Platinum, CR5002HP air bags, KYB Skorched 4s shocks, std front springs, rear Kings std . Alpine iLX-702D, Occam roof rack 2.2m on backbone.
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I fit a low coolant alarm yesterday. It is a Davies Craig 1035 kit that uses a float sensor in the top radiator pipe.
The instructions say to mount the inline sensor on a straight horizontal section of hose, but the hose on the Pajero isn't horizontal. I will see how it goes as is. If it causes false alarms then I will look at finding some hose that will give the correct angle, but for the time being I'll try it like this. There is a 30sec triggering delay, so any momentary dropping of the sensor won't cause an alarm.
One thing to note is I think the sensor is normally open when floating, closing when it drops (low coolant). Unfortunately I didn't check this before I installed it and refilled the coolant, but it is open circuit when fitted and filled. I think this because when I turned it on with the sensor disconnected, there was no warning. This isn't ideal as any open circuit damage to the wiring will mean a coolant lose wouldn't be detected by the alarm!
The sensor cable was about 500mm too short for my install so I had to lengthen it. I soldered and heat shrunk it and used split conduit to minimise the chance of it failing.
The control unit is a bit of an awkward shape to have mounted somewhere visible, but I found somewhere out of the road where I can see it if required.
There is a warning LED that I put above the trip meter reset button so it's in my peripheral vision. The LED didn't come with a bezel which is a bit cheap, so I had to get some from Jaycar.
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It's about time I updated this a bit. I wasn't really happy with my last rear bar, so I remade it. I reused the same lower section, just cut the upper bits off and started from there.
The original plastic rear quarter panels are back on and I cut the lower sections of the bumper off around the bar and put some rubber edging on it. I also painted the lower grey sections of the bumper with a black textured bumper paint which I think blends much nicer than the grey.
I am much happier with this version. It's a lot more understated than the last one, but still offers great protection when the rear end drops off a step, slides sideways, or is up against a bank.
I'm thinking of making a flat top along the section under the door using tread plate to work as a step for reaching things on the roof. Also looking at ways to incorporate the reflectors and parking sensors better.
These photos were taken on a recent trip, hence the mud. The mud helps hides the scratches in the plastic.
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I've been inspired to update my build thread.
Firstly, bash plates.
The Boos transmission plate I had wasn't wide enough to cover the cabin cooler lines on the driver side, or the cat temp sensor on the passenger side. I had cut the original transmission over up and mounted the sides onto the Boos plate (as below, but on both sides), but it wasn't ideal. The plate would also rattle on the flange of the cat.
I have now fitted a transmission, transfer, and fuel guard from ASFIR. I won't show lots of photos of the install as someone else already done that here.
They are all 6mm aluminium and provide a lot of coverage. There are a few more bolts holding the transmission plate on, and a couple of them are captive nuts on metal handles that are a pain to line up, so I'm not looking forward the day I need to remove them. It looks like I can change the oil filter without taking it off, so hopefully it can stay put for a while
I was surprised to see how dented my fuel tank was. The factory guard did a good job of concealing that.
There is a big gap between the tank and the guard that caught me by surprise...
... but recently figured out why they do that.
Next up when I can afford it will be replacing the intercooler guard. The 3mm steel Boos guard has had a tough life and I can't really straighten it now. My old intercooler even had a bit of compression on one corner from a hit at some point. The Kaon one looks good, or maybe stick with the theme and go ASFIR again. They both look solid and look like they would give better cooling performance.
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Hazard switch.
I had a plan to mount a hand held GPS receiver in the hazard switch position. I haven't gotten that far, but the groundwork has been laid.
Firstly, the left hand drive Pajero's have the hazard switch on the left, and you could get a switch from somewhere in Europe if you really wanted.
I didn't take many photos of the process, but the hazard switch front part can be removed from the mechanism, and the mechanism can be mounted on the passenger side. From there a bit of 3D printing, laser cutting, and some black artwork and its done. The front is actually red acrylic with a black covering. This allows the switch light to illuminate red with the internal light. It's not as tidy as I want it yet, so I'll redo it at some point.
For the drivers side, I made a mount to fit in the space. I have made it with an M3 metal stand off in each hole and a recessed switch. The idea there is the switch can apply 12V across the two stand offs, so I can make a plastic mount that screws in the holes and has power for my GPS unit. Or as it is now, there is no voltage there and I can use a metal bracket. It is currently just holding a microphone bracket.
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Switch panel.
Next up is a new dash switch panel.
With the DIN space occupied by VHF radio, I decided to completely redo the lower section. The first step was to relocate the rear locker switch to the driver knee switch spot which is where my traction control override switch already lives. I did need to cut the wires and extend them a bit.
The panel currently has four switches, a 12V outlet, a twin USB outlet, holes for the cabin temp sensor, and the UHF mic clip.
The CB radio switch switches the radio between accessory power and full time power. This is handy on club trips.
The winch power switch activates a relay that enables the 12V feed to the winch controller. This switch enables/disables winch control for both the cabin switches and the controller outlet under the bonnet (for the normal wireless/wired remote control). This 12V feed is comes from the battery via the winch isolation switch. This 12V feed is also used to illuminate the LED in the winch power switch, so I know if the isolation switch is on or not. When the winch power switch is on, the winch in/out switch illuminates too. Hopefully that all makes sense?
I don't have anything else to fill the left side yet, so I just mounted the UHF mic there
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