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  • Old mate
    Junior Member
    • May 2013
    • 5
    • Gold Coast

    Thoughts on Driving Lights

    Hi all,
    Apologies if I open a can of worms here but;
    My IPF Halogens have seen their day and are due for replacement.
    I don't know much about LED's and the info I have read so far state that HID's are still the big hitters for distance and I would prefer a light offering as much distance as possible.
    What are opinions on running a set of HID round spots with an LED flood lightbar?
    Do you think this would offer a good all round solution?
    Cheers
    Old Mate
  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11608
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    Originally posted by Old mate View Post
    Hi all,
    Apologies if I open a can of worms here but;
    My IPF Halogens have seen their day and are due for replacement.
    I don't know much about LED's and the info I have read so far state that HID's are still the big hitters for distance and I would prefer a light offering as much distance as possible.
    What are opinions on running a set of HID round spots with an LED flood lightbar?
    Do you think this would offer a good all round solution?
    Cheers
    Old Mate

    Not sure what your budget is but you could consider trying a quality light bar first and see if you really need more distance and more lights, both these 20ish inch light bars from Stedi have good spread and good range out to 500+ metres.

    Bang for your buck you are hard pressed to find anything better!










    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment

    • Onslow
      Valued Member
      • Aug 2007
      • 595
      • Perth, Western Australia

      #3
      I ran halogens for years (IPF 100W). On my current vehicle I changed to HID (Lightforce Genesis 70W). This resulted in a substantial difference in distance gained, and it provided a much whiter light which is easier on the eyes than the halogen yellow. However it didn't give much spread to the sides where I needed to see the roo's, and the worst feature was that they need time to warm up properly which can be frustrating on country roads with oncoming traffic where you're flicking them on and off.

      I recently changed to twin LED's (ARB Intensity) and wouldn't go back now - huge volumes of white light in front and to the sides, and plenty of distance for driving on the limit. Much better around when cornering too.

      I'd envisage that the combination that you're thinking of would be quite good though. I just found that the LED's had enough distance to do the job anyway, and had other better characteristics in general.
      NOW SOLD: NW MY2014 VRX 3.2 Diesel Auto, Rhino Rack Roof Rack, Sandgrabber Floor Mats, Safari Snorkel, Warn XP9.5S Winch, ARB Bull Bar, Bushskinz Underbody Protection, Lovells HD Springs, Bilstein Shocks, Firestone Airbags, Off Road Systems Rear Shelf, Boab 40Lt Water Tank, Cooper LT265/65x17 ST-Maxx Tyres, Uniden 7760 UHF Radio, LRA 58LT Long Range Tank, ARB Intensity Spotlights, Redarc BCDC Dual Battery System, Taipan XP 3in Exhaust System, Recaro Seats.

      Comment

      • Alex86
        Valued Member
        • Jul 2007
        • 2416
        • Here and there

        #4
        I've got a similar setup to what you are asking about.

        My spotties are HID- Narva 225's. However it's the flood/spot combo so one light is a flood and one a spot.
        I also have a 20in 120w single row LED light bar that has a combination of flood and spot.

        I find a quite like this setup. The light bar I find so much better for twisty roads or bush tracks, the HIDs for the long open roads.
        Both on I get good distance, good flood further out (the HIDs) and a good bit of flood closer in (lightbar).


        I used to have IPF halogens instead of the Narva HIDs. The IPFs were both spot beam. I found the combination of the yellow halogen and the white LED a bit weird, still worked for lots of useable light, but better to try and keep them all the same colour or as close to as possible.

        Personally, I'm really only concerned with good light illuminating a nice visible area for out to about 200m. Things further than that you've got heaps more time to react. It's the roo 50m away on the edge of the road that worries me!

        Good lights have saved the front end of my car once or twice I reckon. Seen skippy coming at me with enough time to react- normal headlights wouldn't have cut the mustard.
        '99 NL Escape, Manual - Bullbar, roofrack, cargo barrier, D697LT, Tough Dogs, dual batts, rear draws, Narva 225 HID, UHF, led bar etc
        Towing: 4.8m Savage Centurion half-cab w/75hp Mariner

        '99 NL GLS SWB, Auto - Bullbar, D697LT, spotties, UHF, Koni adjustables & King springs.

        Wanted: Adventure.

        Comment

        • Merts
          Valued Member
          • Nov 2011
          • 1403
          • Bendigo Vic

          #5
          I have a set of the lightforce HTX hybrids, so effectively what you are thinking about combined into one fitting. There is a ring of LEDs (80w) and a central HID (70w). The LEDs give great lighting with a wide spread, out over 300m. For virtually all the driving I do they are plenty.

          The HID is a narrow beam and lights the road up over 1.5kms from the car. Very impressive, but not all that useful for most driving conditions if I'm honest. Even on the slightest of bends they light up more beside the road rather than on it, and in hilly country they are basically useless.

          If I was doing it again I'd probably just go for 80w LEDs and save a fair bit of coin.
          Merts
          Impulse Blue 2015 MQ Triton GLS Auto

          ARB Summit front & rear bars and side steps, Carryboy canopy and rack, Safari Snorkel, VRS 9500 winch, Gecko 16x7 rims with BFG 245/75r16 KM3s, Uniden 8080s UHF, Darche 270 awning
          Dobinson heavy duty suspension, Harrop rear Elocker, Supertrim Neoprene Seat Covers, Drifta drawers, MSA drop slide, dual battery system and ARB onboard compressor. National Campers Hermit.

          Previously a Gunmetal 2007 NS VRX DiD Auto

          Comment

          • vladguan
            Valued Member
            • Mar 2015
            • 2961
            • Adelaide

            #6
            Originally posted by old Jack View Post
            Not sure what your budget is but you could consider trying a quality light bar first and see if you really need more distance and more lights, both these 20ish inch light bars from Stedi have good spread and good range out to 500+ metres.

            Bang for your buck you are hard pressed to find anything better!










            OJ.
            I can vouch for the ST3303.
            Please call me Vlad.
            -----------------------
            MY15 NX GLS - SPV EGR; Donaldson filter; Front sensors; Compass; DEI506T and DEI507M; LED interior and exterior lights; Blue LED step lights; 3T tow bar; 20% front & clear tint over privacy windows; Chrome handle protectors; 3x Bushskinz guards; Nudge bar; Hella Sharptones; Dual alarm horns; STEDI lightbar; TC mod loom; Paddles; ProVent 200; Dobinsons springs and MRR shocks; Bonnet struts; OCAM awning; Rear work light; Air compressor. TBD - UHF.

            Comment

            • denmonkey
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2017
              • 349
              • Newcastle NSW

              #7
              I've got a light bar and some older halogen narva spots.



              I recently changed over the low beam to LED and the change is massive.

              thread and video here https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum...ad.php?t=62290


              you will see the positive and negative feedback re the change in the thread.



              With that said, the same globes I purchased also fitted into the highs. I will be getting a second set for in there.

              Once you have such white light the yellow glow stands out like dogs balls.

              I've been pretty happy with the hi beam on the paj but the LED made it even better.

              So for maybe 30 bucks, try a set and see if that keeps you happy enough with a small light bar for spread.

              If you're after all out sun type light, it might not work.



              cheers Brett

              Comment

              • letsgoplaces
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2014
                • 328
                • Adelaide

                #8
                You could upgrade the IPFs to Hid



                I did this with mine, and they are great.
                I have combined these with a lightbar on the roofrack.
                They are switched separately, so I can run both or just one or the other depending on driving conditions

                Comment

                • denmonkey
                  Senior Member
                  • Oct 2017
                  • 349
                  • Newcastle NSW

                  #9
                  Originally posted by letsgoplaces View Post
                  You could upgrade the IPFs to Hid



                  I did this with mine, and they are great.
                  I have combined these with a lightbar on the roofrack.
                  They are switched separately, so I can run both or just one or the other depending on driving conditions



                  I'd been sussing out a set for my narvas.
                  I know its a hard question but are you seeing more distance etc over the old ones or just an improvement over the general light.

                  How slow are they to come up ?

                  Comment

                  • Phil
                    Valued Member
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 801
                    • Sydney

                    #10
                    Originally posted by denmonkey View Post
                    I'd been sussing out a set for my narvas.
                    I know its a hard question but are you seeing more distance etc over the old ones or just an improvement over the general light.

                    How slow are they to come up ?
                    I did this to my Narva 225's years ago, gained maybe a touch in distance, a clearer light for sure.
                    They are a touch slow first up, but if flicking off for on coming vehicles they come straight back on.
                    MY05 NP DiD Auto Platinum. Custom scratches. ARB bar & 12000lbs winch. Maxxis Bighorns. BushSkinz Bash plates & slidders. TJM auto guard. Gear box, trans & diff breathers. Rhino racks & Pod. Awning with LED. Dual batteries. HID Narva 225's. Airtec snorkel. 2" Lovell/Bilstein lift. GME TX3500. Wetseat covers. Pioneer BT deck. Cargo barrier. Beaudesert exhaust. Rear storage & CF80. ARB onboard air. NS 18s for the black top, 80L LRA tank. HPD Catch Can. HPD Intercooler.

                    Comment

                    • letsgoplaces
                      Senior Member
                      • Jul 2014
                      • 328
                      • Adelaide

                      #11
                      Originally posted by denmonkey View Post
                      I'd been sussing out a set for my narvas.
                      I know its a hard question but are you seeing more distance etc over the old ones or just an improvement over the general light.

                      How slow are they to come up ?
                      Originally posted by Phil View Post
                      I did this to my Narva 225's years ago, gained maybe a touch in distance, a clearer light for sure.
                      They are a touch slow first up, but if flicking off for on coming vehicles they come straight back on.

                      It's been 8 years since I upgraded the IPF's to HID, so is stretching the memory a bit!
                      And like Phil says, maybe 5 seconds to warm up, but once warm come straight back if you need to dip them.

                      Comment

                      • motorazr
                        Member
                        • Aug 2018
                        • 115
                        • Adelaide

                        #12
                        I upgraded my ipf900’s using an eBay 55w hid kit,cost around $100. Well worth it but only do it if your reflectors are in good condition and the body of the spotty is ok. An other alternative is to pick up a cheap set of good ipf’s and do a conversion on them.
                        When choosing a light colour I went for (from memory) the 55000kelvin as they are the closest to normal light, reason being that it gives, imo, more usable light and isn’t as tiring on the eyes.

                        Comment

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