Driving on Icy snow

[Mike DiD]

This weekend was the first chance to drive on well packed and icy tracks using the standard Highway Tread tyres at normal pressure - 36psi.

I found it essential to turn off ASC in 4HLc to stop it sliding sideways at front or rear when braking.

When going downhill I found it best to slow down using the Handbrake - but making sure you ease off if it slides due to a rear wheel locking.

[Jeffwatkins]

This weekend was the first chance to drive on well packed and icy tracks using the standard Highway Tread tyres at normal pressure - 36psi.

I found it essential to turn off ASC in 4HLc to stop it sliding sideways at front or rear when braking.

When going downhill I found it best to slow down using the Handbrake - but making sure you ease off if it slides due to a rear wheel locking.

Never driven in packed and icy tracks. Wouldn't like to either with HTs at 36psi. Glad you survived.

[erad]

The last thing I would use is the handbrake, especially going downhill. You already have a weight transfer to the front wheels, and you are likely to lock up the rear wheels with the handbrake. I would use 4WD, high range and rely on the ABS to help you going downhill, and ASC to help going uphill. Tyre pressures would be OK for ice and snow conditions because you want the skinniest amount of tread exposed to the road (and the highest contact pressure).


Number 1 technique in snow/ice is to do everything SMOOTHLY. No sudden acceleration, braking, cornering etc.

Number 2 is to use as high a gear as possible. Sounds strange, but the slightest change in throttle in low gear or low range gives massive thumps to the driving wheels. Years ago, a friend had a 1962 Falcon auto. The engine was totally stuffed, yet that damned thing would go through enormous depths of snow and ice and no stop. Everyone else had to put chains on. We concluded that it was the total lack of power, combined with the smooth output of the automatic transmission which got him through.

I spent many years in the Snowy Mountains Authority, crossing over the ranges several times per week in standard issue 2WD vehicles - most of them autos. Only twice did I NEED chains, and the road surface was so slippery that I could barely stand up to fit them. Autos are good for icy conditions because they get the power down to the wheels smoothly.

A 4WD vehicle going down a hill with the brakes on is the same as a 2WD. Once the wheels lock up, you go where the fall line takes you.

My own vehicle for years was a Citroen DS21. My wife hated it, but one day as we were driving on severe ice, she remarked that it was going really well, given the conditions. I replied that it should - it had the best part of a tonne over the front wheels. Pause, and then the reply "Is this a front wheel drive?" She had driven it for 5 years and not known. Anyway, that day we had to go back down to Jindabyne for some supplies, and on the return back up, the road was blocked by a line of cars, all fitting chains, as usual in the middle of the road... Wife said "Go around them". I tried, but the front wheels just spun. I don't know why, but I then noticed that I had the suspension set on the high setting (gives more clearance but a harsher ride). I put it back on normal setting (superb ride) and tried again and it took off up the hill no problems at all! More tests later proved this - softer setting = better traction. We found this out years after when my wife's TM Magna was on ice. Bloody useless. Too much low down grunt and suspension too hard.

The Citroen was replaced with a Range Rover and that went really well on ice. Then I replaced that with a NL Pajero and it was nowhere near as good as the Rangie. Haven't tried the NW pajero out as yet - I no longer have the need to drive on icy roads. I suspect that it may be nearly as good as the Rangie, simply because the suspension is softer than the NL.

To summarise, you need weight over the driving wheels, supple suspension, smooth drive train and most of all, a smooth driving technique to make the most of what you are actually driving at the time.

[pajflareo]

I have driven plenty on snow and ice in my pajero (see my display pic)

The pajero is well suited to this kind of driving. If you have an auto, use the auto box in Manual mode to slow down as much as possible, rather than the brakes. Also 4HLC gives the best grip obviously.

One year driving the alpine way near Jindabyne, there was a big rush to get down to the resorts after a big snowfall. I was driving in in 4H (or AWD) as there was not much snow on the road. I passed everyone fitting their chains and the cops and NPWS waved me through. Got to the next bend and there was 3x soft roaders slid out in various places around this downhill section of the road. I came to complete stop to check if some people in a BMW X5 were okay, which they were, so i attempted to keep on driving. I could get absolutely no grip in 4H, couldn't even move. Popped it in 4HLC and took off as if driving on bitumen, it was great. Passed over 15 AWD cars that were immobilised due to the snow and was able to drive all the way to Dead Horse Gap where there was about 10cm un tracked snow on the road in places and had no issues.

[erad]

To further reinforce the high gear approach, I am currently looking a buying a cheap 2004 Astra for my daughter. It is auto and has a button on the floor next to the gear selector marked with a snowflake pattern. The handbook says it locks it in 3rd gear for takeoff on icy roads. This minimises the amount of power which can be put down to the drive wheels, and therefore minimises the wheelspin.

My friend's 1962 falcon auto was a 2 speed thing, so it had bugger all power at low revs anyway.

[Mike DiD]

Never driven in packed and icy tracks. Wouldn't like to either with HTs at 36psi. Glad you survived.

Airing up and down each time I changed between dry snowploughed bitumen and icy track just wasn't practical.

So it was matter of what worked best with what I had - and that proved to be 4HLc with ASTC OFF, while using handbrake below the point of locking the rear wheels.

[Dicko1]

Only drove old volkswagons in the snow many moons ago. Mainly used motorbikes when I was at Hotham. Yammie 360 trail bike. That was fun..

I reckon the Pajero in 4wd would be a great vehicle in the snow. Living in Cairns and afraid of the cold I,ll never find out..lol

[OnPatrol]

Airing up and down each time I changed between dry snowploughed bitumen and icy track just wasn't practical.

So it was matter of what worked best with what I had - and that proved to be 4HLc with ASTC OFF, while using handbrake below the point of locking the rear wheels.

I'm sure that there will be other opportunities to drive on icy packed tracks over this winter season. Instead of using the park brake - use 4HLc and try using your left foot on the brake. Drive whilst keeping constant pressure with your left foot on the brake pedal.

[Dazza.]

Number 1 technique in snow/ice is to do everything SMOOTHLY. No sudden acceleration, braking, cornering etc

X2.

[Patagonia]

Airing up and down each time I changed between dry snowploughed bitumen and icy track just wasn't practical.

So it was matter of what worked best with what I had - and that proved to be 4HLc with ASTC OFF, while using handbrake below the point of locking the rear wheels.

As Erad said, on ice don´t air down as you don´t want aquaplaning and need highest contact pressure.

[Mike DiD]

The last thing I would use is the handbrake, especially going downhill. You already have a weight transfer to the front wheels, and you are likely to lock up the rear wheels with the handbrake.

I found that using the Handbrake ACTUALLY WORKED better than using the footbrake when more braking than from low-gearing was needed going downhill.

But it was ESSENTIAL to keep the button pressed so that I could instantly reduce braking when a wheel started to lock up.

I assume this worked for the same reason that if using Chains, the Manual recommends putting them on the back wheels. If the front wheels lock up you will lose steering. Even if you had steering, front wheels braking and rear wheels not, would mean the rear will swing out

[Keeno]

Mike DiD

You will find the grip level on offer will change dramatically depending on the type of snow/slush/ice you encounter.

The training I have received for snow and ice driving was;
1. Let the ABS do it's job.
2. Be smooth and complete your braking before the corner.
3. Going down hill? Avoid compression braking by selecting a higher gear, use your brakes to slow down.
4. 4 wheel drive does not equal more grip when braking.
5. If you need chains, you probably shouldn't go out.

I hope these points help and enjoy the snow.
I do like to select 2 wheel drive to assess the grip levels on offer.

Cheers.

[Mike DiD]

The Owners manual states -

"Compared with vehicles not fitted with ABS, your vehicle may require a LONGER stopping distance in the following cases :
- Driving on gravel or snow-covered roads.
- Driving with tyre chains fitted"

- which is why I didn't depend on ABS, but used handbrake VERY carefully to achieve the optimum braking for the conditions.

[The Speedfighter]

Coming from Europe myself and driving in these conditions daily, first thing we learned was NEVER EVER use the handbrake in these conditions.

Even though you think you have control, you actually don't at all.

Best thing is like was stated before, leave the tyres at normal pressure, and let the ABS etc. do the rest.

[Keeno]

If ABS is required in a braking situation you will have more control of the vehicle then if your wheels are just locked.

My old NJ had no ABS and you were required to modulate your braking when you locked a wheel. Do I think my old NJ was better/safer to drive in the snow compared with my NT? No.

When I first started driving in the snow colleagues gave me some advise, "Only drive as fast as you want to hit the biggest tree but drive fast enough not to slide down the road camber".

Cheers.

The Owners manual states -

"Compared with vehicles not fitted with ABS, your vehicle may require a LONGER stopping distance in the following cases :
- Driving on gravel or snow-covered roads.
- Driving with tyre chains fitted"

- which is why I didn't depend on ABS, but used handbrake VERY carefully to achieve the optimum braking for the conditions.