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Generation 4-3 Pajero NW model 2011 - 2014

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  #1  
Old 1 Week Ago
hazytrav hazytrav is offline
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Default New clutch, now hard to change gears

My first post. What a great forum this is. Thanks for all of the valuable information.

I changed out my clutch on the weekend. My NW only has 80k, previous owners towed a caravan and flogged it out. Ive installed an Xtreme Heavy Duty Organic clutch kit from Quick Auto Parts.

It has been working well, but I do have one problem and that is now, four days later, it seems like my clutch in not engaging fully. I have had a look at the fork, the clutch release bearing does move but not all the way up the shaft.

Could I be right in thinking that my slave cylinder may be on the way out or perhaps I need to bleed it again?
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Old 1 Week Ago
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It is not uncommon that the slave and the master cyclinder fail under the extra load of a new HD clutch but from my experience it is rarely in such a short time.

In between the slave and the master cylinders there is a expansion chamber (sometimes called a Dampner) it is a chamber that has either a spring loaded piston or a spring loaded diaphragm, it's purpose is to act like a shock absorber to absorb the vibration pulses generated by the engine. If this is not working correctly the master and slave cyclinder pistons will vibrate and very quickly wear the seals out. Early sign of this happening is the clutch fluid is black when it is flushed out. These should be overhauled or replaced when you change the slave or master cylinders.

The piston could have been stuck then come unstuck or the diaphragm rupture with the extra load of the HD clutch. Some expansion chambers can be disassembled, cleaned and seals replaced but others are a throw away item. Normally there is a bleed nipple on the expansion chamber and you should bled this at the same time you bleed the slave and master cylinders. I would bleed the system again then get someone to depress the clutch, hold it to the floor whilst you check the fork actuation holds its position.

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
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Old 1 Week Ago
hazytrav hazytrav is offline
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@OJ

Thanks for the info. Ill check it out tomorrow.
I presume I can get the expansion chamber from an auto parts store? or perhaps order one easily?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hazytrav View Post
@OJ

Thanks for the info. Ill check it out tomorrow.
I presume I can get the expansion chamber from an auto parts store? or perhaps order one easily?
Expansion chamber is also known as Dampner. no many people even realise that they are often fitted to vehicles, so they are the forgotten component in the clutch system. This might be of interest.
http://www.exedy.com.au/assets/files...otes/TN016.pdf

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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Old 4 Days Ago
hazytrav hazytrav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
Expansion chamber is also known as Dampner. no many people even realise that they are often fitted to vehicles, so they are the forgotten component in the clutch system. This might be of interest.
http://www.exedy.com.au/assets/files...otes/TN016.pdf

OJ.
Funny thing, I called Mitsubishi spare parts and they checked my VIN and said that I don't have an expansion chamber, but I do.

So, I bled the clutch and is it now working much better. There was air in the system, but there were tiny air bubbles still coming through.
What I can see though is that there is a leak from somewhere. Seems like it could be the connection of the rubber hose to the expansion chamber. Perhaps the washers are worn either side of the round connection point.
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Old 3 Days Ago
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Are you doing a gravity bled or master cyclinder pressure bled top to bottom or an external source pressure bleed bottom to top?
Are you bleeding at all bled nipples including the expansion chamber?

I have had clutch systems on other vehicles that the only way to remove all the air has been a bottom to top pressure bleed so you are not using the master cyclinder to push the clutch fluid through the system.

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Nightbreaker +130LB & Phillips +100 HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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  #7  
Old 3 Days Ago
erad erad is offline
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It should be fairly easy to bleed the clutch hydraulics properly. I always assume the worst, and then things can only get better. Maybe it is the clutch plate sticking on the splines, or else the clutch plate is clinging onto the flywheel face. Did you have the flywheel face machined? Was it flat and even (no grooves)? Are the throwout fingers on the diaphragm plate aligned or moving smoothly?
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Old 3 Days Ago
hazytrav hazytrav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erad View Post
It should be fairly easy to bleed the clutch hydraulics properly. I always assume the worst, and then things can only get better. Maybe it is the clutch plate sticking on the splines, or else the clutch plate is clinging onto the flywheel face. Did you have the flywheel face machined? Was it flat and even (no grooves)? Are the throw out fingers on the diaphragm plate aligned or moving smoothly?
Thanks erad.

Flywheel is good and felt that there was no need to machine it.
Diaphragm plate appears to be align, before transmission and after.

I will try and bleed again, but since there is a leaky fluid from somewhere, I think I need to fix it up. There was evidence of a leak when I started to prep the vehicle for clutch replacement.
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Old 3 Days Ago
hazytrav hazytrav is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old Jack View Post
Are you doing a gravity bled or master cyclinder pressure bled top to bottom or an external source pressure bleed bottom to top?
Are you bleeding at all bled nipples including the expansion chamber?
I have been using my fluid changing syringe, works a treat on my motorbike and other vehicles. I did however bleed from the expansion chamber then slave cylinder.
I presumed that there were on two bleeding nipples.
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