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Brake pads with better bite

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  • pajeromack
    Valued Member
    • Jun 2014
    • 561
    • NSW

    Brake pads with better bite

    Had anyone tried any higher performance brake pads? The factory ones seem fine around town but while doing a 100kmh emergency stop on the highway (roo) I noticed that factory brakes wouldn't even lockup the wheels, let alone activate the ABS.
  • Giddyup
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2013
    • 261
    • Melbourne

    #2
    Originally posted by pajeromack View Post
    Had anyone tried any higher performance brake pads? The factory ones seem fine around town but while doing a 100kmh emergency stop on the highway (roo) I noticed that factory brakes wouldn't even lockup the wheels, let alone activate the ABS.
    Sounds like you might need to replace the brake fluid. I have no problems hitting the abs with stock pads. You might be getting a soft pedal because of old fluid/bubbles. I noticed a better pedal feel when they changed the fluid at the 35000km (?) service. Seems they didn't bleed the system very well when the car was built.
    MY14 Titanium manual. Stock.

    Comment

    • littleriver
      Valued Member
      • Jan 2013
      • 3339
      • Queensland

      #3
      Originally posted by Giddyup View Post
      Sounds like you might need to replace the brake fluid. I have no problems hitting the abs with stock pads. You might be getting a soft pedal because of old fluid/bubbles. I noticed a better pedal feel when they changed the fluid at the 35000km (?) service. Seems they didn't bleed the system very well when the car was built.
      x2 on when fluid was changed in our 30k km service ...

      every 2 yrs or 30k km is a recommended .... you can also go to some workshops and they have a test tool to see if the fluid is still okays - (one we use has green/yellow/red led indicator)



      ..
      2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap

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      • littleriver
        Valued Member
        • Jan 2013
        • 3339
        • Queensland

        #4
        just buy this if you are unsure

        Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Brake Oil Fluid Tester LED Moisture Liquid Tool Car Vehicle Test Indicator Pen at the best online prices at eBay!


        2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap

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        • NTBenny
          Senior Member
          • May 2017
          • 365
          • Newcastle

          #5
          The signs of brake fluid needing to be changed is usually a soft or spongy peddle. Did this occur? A sign of fade is when you're pushing a firm peddle as hard as you can and the car isn't stopping at the same rate it usually does. Not being able to lock a wheel at speed may not necessarily be a failure of the fluid or pads but the capability of the clamping force the caliper has acting on the rotor. You don't want wheels locking at high speed anyway. In my experience most factory fitted pads when new perform well enough for one good application from 110kph to zero but repeated applications or towing will see fade come on quite quickly. This can then lead to fluid boiling and glazing rotors etc. All the cars I've owned have usually seen a great improvement in braking performance simply going to a good quality after market pad. Unfortunately performance pads can come at the cost of increased pad wear, rotor wear, noise and dust. Hence why manufacturers don't fit them.

          Benny.
          2011 NT Pajero Platinum, DCS 80AH Extreme Battery, Stedi 8.5" LED driving lights, Bushskinz side steps & bash plates, Provent 200, Auto-mate TC lockup, Derale fan forced trans cooler, custom 3inch exhaust, JT intercooler, Bilstein + Lovells 2 inch lift, Airbag Man bags, DBA slotted rotors, braided brake lines, diff+gearbox+transfer breathers, Redarc boost & EGT gauge, Tuned by TME 141rwkw 598nm.

          Comment

          • picard
            Valued Member
            • May 2011
            • 417
            • wollongong

            #6
            Originally posted by pajeromack View Post
            Had anyone tried any higher performance brake pads? The factory ones seem fine around town but while doing a 100kmh emergency stop on the highway (roo) I noticed that factory brakes wouldn't even lockup the wheels, let alone activate the ABS.
            I would guess stopping hard at that speed, you may have experienced a little brake fade, with possible fluid boiling, but more the pad material over heated, a harder pad material would help prevent this but at the loss some stopping power in general driving conditions.
            mods, bridgestone 694 LT 265/65, ulitmate suspension 2 in with poly airbags, side awning

            Comment

            • zoom
              Member
              • Apr 2017
              • 200
              • Sydney

              #7
              Originally posted by pajeromack View Post
              Had anyone tried any higher performance brake pads? The factory ones seem fine around town but while doing a 100kmh emergency stop on the highway (roo) I noticed that factory brakes wouldn't even lockup the wheels, let alone activate the ABS.



              Sounds typical of glazed discs

              Comment

              • coughy
                Valued Member
                • May 2014
                • 589
                • Redlands Brisbane QLD

                #8
                i have cross slotted and cross drilled rotors with ceramic pads and yep she stops when i say so
                very happy with the pedal feel also
                i changed the fluid for dot 4 i think it was and made them even better so yer start with fluid then look at pads and disks

                a little harder need to push when cold but when the heat from driving gets in there man see stops well
                My10 PB XLS ,Opposite lock 3 hoop black bullbar ,HID XRAY200MM Spotlights ,Uniden UHF radio,EGR off,Rear cargo barrier,Turbo Replacment and only 45K,265/70 trail climbers, 26 psi boost and 3" full turbo back custom install exhaust ,hid 35 watt driving low beam,Custom day LED running lights,dual battery kit and wiring ,105amp hour battery , 50 AMP anderson plug front and back ,raised 2" Electric Brake controller.
                New Custom Ultimate diesel tuning REMAP,custom rail limiter.

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                • Ent
                  Valued Member
                  • Apr 2014
                  • 1589
                  • Tasmania

                  #9
                  I am to in the market for pads alround. Factory originals likely to do 90,000kms which is lot faster wear than I am use to but reading suggests that this is pretty normal. Challenger brakes ok, not brilliant, with poor pedal feel and not good on multiple hard braking runs. Very much a case of using the gears to slow down, which is not only good technique, but actually required.

                  Any recommendations? Or go again with factory ones?
                  2014 PC Challenger, manual, factory tow-bar, factory front diff protector, TJM inter-cooler plate, Bushskinz manual transmission protection plate, ProRack S16 roof racks, front elocker, Drummond Motor Sport front struts, custom 16mm King rear springs with Bilstein Dampeners, Buzz Rack Runner 3 bike platform, Eclipse Nav head unit, GME TX3800BW UHF, 16x8 CSA Raptor rims, 265/75R16 Maxxis MT-762, orToyo AT/2 265/70R16 Triton rims, BFGoodrich 235/85/R16 Triton rims, or Factory tyres and rims.

                  Comment

                  • 02-SR5
                    Valued Member
                    • Dec 2010
                    • 1654
                    • Toowoomba

                    #10
                    I fitted a set of Bendix pads. I reckon the factory pads performed better than the Bendix.

                    Bit older and a little (not by much) wiser these days. Unless I'm hitting the race track, stick the OE gear these days. Less heart ache.
                    MY17 Triton GLX Plus with Mitsubishi Canopy. Keeping it light and simple. 265/70/16 Nitto's, Bilstien shocks, Kings Springs front, Formula leafs rear, ECB nudge bar, Ligjtforce 170's, twin batteries and a ARB fridge.

                    Comment

                    • littleriver
                      Valued Member
                      • Jan 2013
                      • 3339
                      • Queensland

                      #11
                      Originally posted by 02-SR5 View Post
                      I fitted a set of Bendix pads. I reckon the factory pads performed better than the Bendix.

                      Bit older and a little (not by much) wiser these days. Unless I'm hitting the race track, stick the OE gear these days. Less heart ache.
                      X2

                      90k km out of original pads as mentioned. . Wouldn't be complaining about that

                      ...
                      2012 PB Challenger LS (Manual) Safari Snorkel, OZtec shocks front & rear with King Springs (lift 2 inch) , 22 inch light bar on ECB Nudge bar, roof racks & basket, Bridgestone Duelers 697 LT A/T (116S), Uniden Dash cam, Oricom 2 way radio 80 channel, Ipod connected via glove box usb, Waeco cf50, Garmin gps (with topo), Opticoat + paint protection, Nilrust proofing, Roosystems Ecu Remap

                      Comment

                      • andy_q
                        Member
                        • Jun 2014
                        • 116
                        • Sydney

                        #12
                        To the question in the op. If the factory pads will not actively abs under hard braking there is a mechanical problem that will probably not be fixed by replacing the pads.
                        This is not speed dependant so you can test at say 50km/h is a safe place. Press the brake pedal as hard as you can. Don't be afraid of it you cannot cause any damage. The abs should activate and cause a pulsing in the pedal.
                        If you do not get this you may have a faulty brake booster or some other issue that needs further diagnosis.
                        Many people do not hit the brake pedal hard enough initially but gently increase the brake pressure over a second or two. This greatly increases the stopping distance in an emergency.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                        • feeex
                          Junior Member
                          • Aug 2016
                          • 42
                          • Malaysia

                          #13
                          I replaced mine with EBC Greenstuff pads, having had them on a number of other cars previously. Honestly, I wouldn't bother doing it on the Pajero again. The original pads are either very good, or Greenstuff pads don't work on the Pajero! There is a bedding-in coating which does feel like it has more bite but once through that, they feel no better than the OEM pads. Worst of all though they generate so much more dust than the OEM pads. The wheels are covered in brake dust within a 100km or so of driving.

                          In my opinion, stick with OEM.

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