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  • PajeroNL
    Member
    • Jun 2016
    • 55
    • Clarem

    Manual Gearstick

    Does anyone know how to disassemble the gear stick and transfer stick.



    The boots on the top of the gearbox and transfer case are perished and need replacing. I have new ones on order, but can’t work out how to undo the bronze coloured part of the shaft from the lower shaft to slide on a new boot.

    Thanks


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  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11628
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    I do not think the bronze sections are removable from the lower section of the levers.
    I suspect you will have to remove the top plate where the levers enter the transmission and dissemble from the underside. Take extra care to note where each bolt comes out of as they may be different lengths. Also normally there is a nylon ball/bush on the end of the levers and these tend to crack and break into several pieces so when you remove the levers th can fall apart!

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

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    • PajeroNL
      Member
      • Jun 2016
      • 55
      • Clarem

      #3
      Thanks. Will look at when the parts arrive and I strip down. What is confusing me is there is a circlip inside the bronze part. I have pulled that out but could not see how it disassembles, which makes it a bit odd what the circlip is for.

      I have purchased the nylon bush and gaskets as well so hopefully no other bits to replace.




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      • stumagoo
        Valued Member
        • Jun 2014
        • 2064
        • Perth WA S.O.R

        #4
        The top shifter sections are screwed to the lower part but I believe that they are loctited or similar together. I have never been able to separate without damaging parts
        1994 NJ 3.0 now with a 2000NL 3.5 engine and driveline, 2.5 catback, 32" MT Deegan 38's, 1" body lift, front diff drop with front tension rods indexed and cranked an 3", 3" on the rear coils
        *** retired to the big wrecking yard in the sky***
        1998 NL 3.5 blisterside, running a 6g75 (3.8) with M90 supercharger at 14psi, 305.70.16's on -44 rims 3.5" suspension lift, Custom Bull bar, winch install, custom front control arms, NJ GLS flares and some camping gear in the back
        .

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        • Keithyv
          Valued Member
          • May 2018
          • 1379
          • Perth

          #5
          If they are anything like other shifter sticks I've come across they are almost moulded in place with a rubber goop or similar (to stop vibrations I assume)

          Just replace the boots from the bottom when you have the stick out to change the bushings.
          2014 NW MY14 3.2 DID GLX-R Auto. Champagne in colour!
          MM Lockup mate. King KCRS-35 rear springs. Monroe Gas Magnum TDT rear shocks. 3M color stable tint all round. Spare wheel lift kit. 'Dynamat' in all doors and rear cargo area. Pioneer AVH-Z5150BT Head Unit. Upgraded Speakers. Rear (2nd row) USB outlet. Factory nudge bar with LED light bar. Provent catch can. LED interior lights. Rear cargo area twin Andersons and Merit socket. Anderson plug in rear bumper. 6 channel TPMS.

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