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Generation 2 Pajero NH - NL Models 1991 - 2000

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  #1  
Old 31-07-19
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
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Location: Williamtown
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Default 1999 NL 3.5 running problem

Hey collective brains,

Have a problem.
Will start and drive for 10 km then engine starts to drop out, first with a single stutter then progressive rev drop until off.
Coast to side of road and will start splutter and die.
Let sit for 10min, starts all good then rinse repeat.
Any ideas?
Read it could be fuel filter,pump or immobilizer.
Or any number of things.
Any information would be great.
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1999 NL Exceed, 3.5, Blue, Bully, Snorkel, light bar.3 1/4 roof rack.
Soon, tyres, UHF.lift?
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  #2  
Old 31-07-19
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tomwithannl tomwithannl is offline
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Hi
I'll start
Should not be immobiliser as usually if they fault they will give a no start situation.
Very typical of a fuel blockage so I would be changing the fuel filter as a first fix.
Could be a weak fuel pump or the "sock" filter on the pump.
Could be a fault in the tank breather system, possibly a blocked carbon canister or crimped pipe not allowing tank to breath. Try running without your fuel cap and see if this cures it.
Check the plastic duct from the air cleaner box to throttle body for a loose part from the baffles floating and blocking the inlet. Check the air filter while you are at it.
Could also be a heat effected crank sensor, but leave that till last
Good luck
Tom
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1998 NL GLS 3.5 Auto with Lux & safety Pac. Bocar alloy bar with 13000lb I-Max winch & engine watchdog.

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  #3  
Old 31-07-19
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nj swb nj swb is offline
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I would start with pulling the pump from the fuel tank and having a look inside. Sounds like crud in your tank getting sucked against the filter and starving flow, then it slowly drops away after you stop (probably as the suction holding it in place slowly bleeds off).

Even if that's not the cause, you'll know what the inside of your tank looks like.
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Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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  #4  
Old 13-08-19
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
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Well update on the car.
First off the mechanics thought it was oil from the slightly leaking rocker cover effecting the spark, so new plugs and seals.
Problem still there, cam sensor?
After pulling the front off, T belt was stretched and pulley was shot, sensor was shot.
So new T kit with all pulley, water pump etc.
Fingers crossed it's good for a while after all this.
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1999 NL Exceed, 3.5, Blue, Bully, Snorkel, light bar.3 1/4 roof rack.
Soon, tyres, UHF.lift?
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  #5  
Old 13-08-19
erad erad is offline
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Sorry, but I cannot see the timing belt and associated stuff around it affecting the car the way you reported it. With a timing belt issue, the car will either run or not. Same with immobiliser. To me it sounds like the fuel pressure is gradually dying off and you are starving for fuel. Replacing all the timing belt stuff was probably necessary, but that will not fix your problem.

The fuel pump has a pre-filter sock on the base of the pump. In my wife's TF Magna, this sock became full of hard red mud. It eventually blocked the fuel flow sufficiently that the engine would not run. It ran perfectly on gas though. The red mud was as solid as a brick. It took at least 5 times to get it clean - bash it to break up the brick, flush it, bash it, flush it.... I then replaced the main fuel filter because it no doubt was full of crud as well, especially the stuff I had loosened up by the bashing, At the same time I had the injectors removed and professionally cleaned by a local garage. The car was totally different after that. Strangely, I never had any issues with my NL Pajero fuel pump, other than the fact that it fell off after the gas fitted had buggered up its mounting.

The problem could be a HT coil, but this should only affect 2 cylinders, not the whole engine.
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  #6  
Old 13-08-19
brw0513 brw0513 is offline
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I agree with the others here that this seems fuel supply related. Air + fuel + compression + spark equals a sweet running engine. One of these things must be the problem.

It seems to happen often unfortunately, but I don't like hearing stories of mechanics fumbling around with expensive nonsense.

The rocker covers on our beautiful 6G74 engines are designed to leak over time and all over the alternator. I think the rocker cover designers were drunk on sake on the Friday afternoon think tank session.

I've heard stories of "stretched timing belts" before. But I've never been convinced these timing belts can stretch. I could accept a "worn" argument , but "stretched" just doesn't sit well in my mind.

Did you try the suggestion of running the car without the fuel cap in place?

My suggestions are to take advice from members here who pass your credibility test. Then buy a workshop manual and read it like a novel. Don't do anything to the car until you comprehend and understand what is in the manual and associated risks (i.e. raw fuel in your case). But once you reach that point, then just start work methodically. The type of problem you are having will be well within your capability to find and fix. Passion and care will go a long way.

Once you find your problem, then post here about how you fixed it for the benefit of all.
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1998 NL SWB 6G74 Manual
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  #7  
Old 14-08-19
disco stu disco stu is online now
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I agree with Erad that timing belt wouldn't cause the issue you had. Timing belt is either fine or not, engine issues won't come and go with it. It could be cam sensor and being affected by the heat, but seeing you don't need to stop that long I'm doubting that is causing the original issue. These things all may well be stuffed, but just means your original issue will likely still be there once they're fixed.
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Old 31-08-19
Luckyme Luckyme is offline
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Well all the work has been done and still has a miss while idling and worse under load.
They can't find the issue and would take alot more coin to fault find, any suggestions. I will be checking the fuel pump sock and other things already suggested.
MAF, oxygen sensor etc
Cheers.
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1999 NL Exceed, 3.5, Blue, Bully, Snorkel, light bar.3 1/4 roof rack.
Soon, tyres, UHF.lift?
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  #9  
Old 31-08-19
brw0513 brw0513 is offline
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Is the Check Engine Light on permanently or for a short period when the ignition is first turned "On"?

Error codes may be there and very helpful.

Do you have a MM dealer handy? You could try walking in on a Friday afternoon around 3:30pm and ask if they have a mechanic who knows about the NL Pajero. Chances are they will. And he/she might just be keen enough to help you out for old times sake. My local MM dealer did for free
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1998 NL SWB 6G74 Manual
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  #10  
Old 31-08-19
erad erad is offline
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So you have the engine running??? If it runs, it is not the immobiliser which is the problem. If it misses under load, it could be ignition or injector.

To check the ignition lift the bonnet in a very dark place and start the engine and gently rev it up. You can do this by puling gently on the throttle cable. If you have any high tension problems, they will soon show themselves in the dark. You should be able to see nothing. If it is all black, then you have an injector problem.
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