Tow bar tow tongue tow draw loose rattle tighten

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In my NS and now, NX the tow bar is firmed upwards by a bolt underneath, this bolt gets compressed and burred on the top which means it cannot be removed to replace it as it becomes worn and you then get a clunk in the tow bar. I did not loosen this bolt when towing as I put stuff on and off my tow bar all the time. I removed this bolt (had to drill it out in the ns ) and made a bracket that pulls the tow bar downwards permanently working on the premise that there is more weight going downwards than upwards. The U bracket I used does bend with time so there is some force on it upwards....

I bought a u bracket and ''spreader plate'' from an industrial bolt supply.
I had to put it in the vice and protect the thread and lever it slightly apart as these U bolt seem to be 2mm narrower at the bottom than the top.
I bought a ''spreader plate" with the U bolt.
I have made a couple of versions...the second one used 15mm rod,flattened on the top and some 5 mm thick flat which travels 65 mm wide along the spreader plate and 12mm upwards and angled forwards to wedge behind the square lip of the tow bar assembly (welded at an angle to go on engine side, when you tighten the U bolt this flat is what helps pull the bar down).

I am not sure if a trailer U bolt from supercheap etc would work...needs to clear 50mm.
I cut the thread off a bit to neaten it up when fitted.

A picture is worth a 1000 words.

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

The bolts purpose is to stop The towbar tongue rattling when not towing. You are supposed to loosen it to allow movement when towing and then Retighten when finished.

[Jasonmc73]

The bolts purpose is to stop The towbar tongue rattling when not towing. You are supposed to loosen it to allow movement when towing and then Retighten when finished.

Well bugger me, thanks mate learn something new everyday. Pin takes the load bolt is anti rattle makes sense to me.

Mine is late 2015 MY16 bolt is fine so i gather hasn't towed.

left field but today,
Whilst cleaning up & painting tongue box section insert & anti seizing i have come to realise, no drain hole in towbar receiver, water would take quite a while to work itself out. I just washed mine pulled tongue out & of course water inside tongue box as well as towbar receiver.
I think mine will soon possibly have a little hole to let out water

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

Yep. so many do tow with bolt in and tight. Cutting off the welded nut and putting a new one is easiest way..... If you have a mig

[Toshmegosh]

Well bugger me, thanks mate learn something new everyday. Pin takes the load bolt is anti rattle makes sense to me.

Mine is late 2015 MY16 bolt is fine so i gather hasn't towed.

left field but today,
Whilst cleaning up & painting tongue box section insert & anti seizing i have come to realise, no drain hole in towbar receiver, water would take quite a while to work itself out. I just washed mine pulled tongue out & of course water inside tongue box as well as towbar receiver.
I think mine will soon possibly have a little hole to let out water

My hitch receiver started rusting inside within 4 months due to no drainage, fixed up and now carry tongue in cab when not towing. As for rattle bolt, take out, stretch back arm, throw as far away as possible!

[Kingbrown]

Yep. so many do tow with bolt in and tight. Cutting off the welded nut and putting a new one is easiest way..... If you have a mig

What about cutting the head off of the bolt and putting a slot in the end of the remaining threaded part?

Then use a big screwdriver to screw the threaded piece all the way in and thus release it from the nut.

[geopaj]

In my NS and now, NX the tow bar is firmed upwards by a bolt underneath, this bolt gets compressed and burred on the top which means it cannot be removed to replace it as it becomes worn and you then get a clunk in the tow bar. I did not loosen this bolt when towing as I put stuff on and off my tow bar all the time. I removed this bolt (had to drill it out in the ns ) and made a bracket that pulls the tow bar downwards permanently working on the premise that there is more weight going downwards than upwards. The U bracket I used does bend with time so there is some force on it upwards....

I bought a u bracket and ''spreader plate'' from an industrial bolt supply.
I had to put it in the vice and protect the thread and lever it slightly apart as these U bolt seem to be 2mm narrower at the bottom than the top.
I bought a ''spreader plate" with the U bolt.
I have made a couple of versions...the second one used 15mm rod,flattened on the top and some 5 mm thick flat which travels 65 mm wide along the spreader plate and 12mm upwards and angled forwards to wedge behind the square lip of the tow bar assembly (welded at an angle to go on engine side, when you tighten the U bolt this flat is what helps pull the bar down).

I am not sure if a trailer U bolt from supercheap etc would work...needs to clear 50mm.
I cut the thread off a bit to neaten it up when fitted.

A picture is worth a 1000 words.

Nice job

For those that don’t have the time or tools to make one, there are commercial versions for sale for under $20 delivered - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Anti-Rat...IAAOSwTKRctUNr

[Jasonmc73]

As for rattle bolt, take out, stretch back arm, throw as far away as possible!

Funny you say that i've just removed mine & put in my toolbox,

See if the rattle drives me crazy or not

[Ian H]

Yes, that bolt is an issue and best to chuck it. Hold down brackets are available online if you don't want to make one.

https://www.outbackequipment.com.au/...20in%20seconds.

OR

https://www.trailercaravansuperstore.com.au/product/4wd-and-automotive/4wd-towing-accessories/drawbar-pins-towing-4wd-and-automotive/anti-rattle-hitch-bracket/

[DibbyDibbyDJ]

What about cutting the head off of the bolt and putting a slot in the end of the remaining threaded part?

Then use a big screwdriver to screw the threaded piece all the way in and thus release it from the nut.

If if was gonna move it would with a spanner. I have tried drilling and retapping.

But time is other people’s money, so grind and weld on new nut is quickest.

[symo]

Anyone tried one of these ?

http://www.haymanreese.com.au/products/silent-hitch-pin

[Jasonmc73]

Anyone tried one of these ?

http://www.haymanreese.com.au/products/silent-hitch-pin

Has merit aye, see you tube

Coarse thread so shouldn't seize

Bloody keys . Roof rack keys, trailer keys, car keys, hitch lock keys, hitch reciever keys

Be good with no keys for me & they probably make one

[jkwpajero]

I have been using one of the iSi bike carrier hitch stabilizer kits. No issues with noise ever. A bit fiddly to set up, but the benefit is they act as an anti theft device as well. Details are available from their website.


James

[Scooby]

I have done something similar. Got a heap of washers to put inside the tongue then put a bolt through it and tightened it up. The washers were a tight fit and stop the box section from crushing. I also cut some flashing tin to shim the tongue in to receiver, a strip at the top and on one side. No rattling now. Only problem is need tools to remove tongue.

[symo]

Anyone tried one of these ?

http://www.haymanreese.com.au/products/silent-hitch-pin

Got one today.

Perfect, stops the bike rack / tow hitch from shaking and has a key lock. [emoji106]