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Generation 4-1 Pajero NS Model 2006 - 2009

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  #1  
Old 13-07-18
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kiwi1973 kiwi1973 is offline
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Default Strange wheel alignment issue

I had a wheel alignment yesterday that I had very good initial impressions of. The car tracks nicely down the road and the steering wheel is perfectly level - but when I went out on the open road I found that after taking slight bends that are perfectly appropriate to take at speeds 80km/hr plus, the car takes on a real shake/wobble and becomes really quite unsettled. Anyone know what could go wrong with a wheel alignment to cause this? I already checked that all wheel nuts are tight and can confirm that there is no play in any of the wheels - either hands and 12 and 6, or at 9 and 3.
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Old 13-07-18
christopher christopher is online now
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Sounds like one of the wheel weights have come off, may need a dynamic wheel balance
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Old 13-07-18
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From the description, I would say its a precession issue rather than wheel balance. I would be looking at steering issues - I wonder if a lock nut is loose on a steering rack end, such that dynamic forces can induce some movement where the 9 & 3 shake can't?
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Old 15-07-18
Allan2 Allan2 is offline
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Could it be still locked in low range causing the drive line to be loading up and releasing?
Allan
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Old 15-07-18
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Check the rear suspension toe in adjustment.

OJ.
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  #6  
Old 15-07-18
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you need to change your location on your user details.Your poor pajero doenst know which hemisphere it is in

hope its a simple fix
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Old 22-07-18
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I still have the issue and haven't yet had time to take it back to the wheel aligner for a further check. I notice now that the side to side wobbling can also be initiated by acceleration. Does this help with the diagnosis? I wonder if replacing the trailing arm bushes may assist. I don't want to do so unnecessarily and I don't think they're ripped/torn etc. They are very soft and I know they are meant to be soft - but when is soft too soft for these?
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2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker.
MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders & rear bumper bash plate. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.
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Old 24-07-18
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best to take it back as soon as you can. Does sound like they might have adjusted to rear tow ends if its swaying at speed. I have the issue of the car felt "floaty" at speeds over 70kms, mine was a over adjustment of the rear camber. knocked it back a a few degrees and settled right down.
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Old 27-07-18
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Yeah I need to get the wheel alignment done again so that I can eliminate alignment as a cause. It complicates things somewhat that in recent days there was a worsening rattling knocking coming from the rear suspension that I have now tracked down to being caused by my left rear Koni 88 series shock absorber. This caused me to wonder if my problem may actually be a failed shock, just coincidentally at the precise time I had an alignment. This certainly muddies the diagnosis waters.

With the shock removed I had hoped that if it had failed it would be easy to see, but alas this is not the case - the piston rod moves smoothly in/out by hand and offers good resistance both ways. However, after leaving it on the ground for a few minutes on its side when I came back I noticed some oil had wept out - so it seems that this shock needs a rebuild.

There is one firm in NZ that rebuilds Koni shocks (they are designed to be rebuildable and for the cost of them you would want to rebuild rather than replace), but I was told today I can courier my shock to them and they have a two to three week turnaround. Seems a long time to have the car off the road just for a shock rebuild. I may see if I can source the spare parts and rebuild the shock myself at home.
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2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker.
MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders & rear bumper bash plate. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.
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