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Generation 1 Pajero NA - NG Models 1983 - 1991

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  #1  
Old 04-09-19
Ratbago Ratbago is offline
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Default Are diesel swaps viable?

I have found a very nice gen 1 Pajero with a service history dating back to purchase date , only problem is , its a petrol 2.6 , i have driven and diesel and liked it a fair bit better , as well as the bonus fuel economy . I was just wondering if swapping a diesel in at a later date would be viable or not , from what i can gather the gearbox and transfer case are the same. Im guessing the following would need to be changed for it to work , fuel tank , engine mounts , pedal box , and various fuel lines, id be doing all the work myself aswell. This petrol one i might be picking up is really clean and well cared for. Any inputs great cheers guys
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Old 05-09-19
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Originally Posted by Ratbago View Post
I have found a very nice gen 1 Pajero with a service history dating back to purchase date , only problem is , its a petrol 2.6 , i have driven and diesel and liked it a fair bit better , as well as the bonus fuel economy . I was just wondering if swapping a diesel in at a later date would be viable or not , from what i can gather the gearbox and transfer case are the same. Im guessing the following would need to be changed for it to work , fuel tank , engine mounts , pedal box , and various fuel lines, id be doing all the work myself aswell. This petrol one i might be picking up is really clean and well cared for. Any inputs great cheers guys
The 4D56 (2.5) has been reported to use the same block as the 4G54 (the 2.6) so a physical swap shouldn't be too complicated. Except you mention pedal box, implying the 2.6 is an auto, which (in some Mitsubishi vehicles) used a different block than the manual version (commonly referred to as "wide block" and "narrow block", but I don't recall which is which). So I presume you're going to find a diesel engine / gearbox / transfer set - and all mounts, to mix and match if necessary.

I don't know that you'd need to change the fuel tank, although checking its interior condition / giving it a good clean may not be a bad idea. Some owners of older diesels put a little petrol into their diesel, so I wouldn't be too concerned about residual petrol "contaminating" anything - just make sure you give the lines a flush with diesel before attempting to start the engine.

Don't forget to research dash / tachometer. The petrol engines have a 6k redline, the diesels will be lower, and the diesels don't have an ignition coil to trigger the tacho - so you should make sure you understand how to make all that work, if you want to go that far.
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  #3  
Old 05-09-19
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Personally, I don’t see the point... buying something that has a perfect service history and then getting rid of the engine (that has the service history) to replace it?? It’s also often hard to start and test drive a second hand engine before purchase so it can be a bit of a lotto.

Gen 1s don’t seem to have many issues with diffs, transmissions, or transfer cases, even if they don’t have perfectly recorded service history.

I would think you’d be better buying a diesel and using the money you would have spent on the conversion (buying the engine etc) to give the mechanics (brakes, shocks, etc) a once over
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  #4  
Old 05-09-19
Ratbago Ratbago is offline
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Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
The 4D56 (2.5) has been reported to use the same block as the 4G54 (the 2.6) so a physical swap shouldn't be too complicated. Except you mention pedal box, implying the 2.6 is an auto, which (in some Mitsubishi vehicles) used a different block than the manual version (commonly referred to as "wide block" and "narrow block", but I don't recall which is which). So I presume you're going to find a diesel engine / gearbox / transfer set - and all mounts, to mix and match if necessary.

I don't know that you'd need to change the fuel tank, although checking its interior condition / giving it a good clean may not be a bad idea. Some owners of older diesels put a little petrol into their diesel, so I wouldn't be too concerned about residual petrol "contaminating" anything - just make sure you give the lines a flush with diesel before attempting to start the engine.

Don't forget to research dash / tachometer. The petrol engines have a 6k redline, the diesels will be lower, and the diesels don't have an ignition coil to trigger the tacho - so you should make sure you understand how to make all that work, if you want to go that far.

The car is a manual , are the pedal boxes different for the petrol and diesel or just the cables , i probably wouldnt be doing the conversion for a while as i need a working car at the moment.Thanks for the info
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Old 05-09-19
Ratbago Ratbago is offline
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Originally Posted by geopaj View Post
Personally, I donít see the point... buying something that has a perfect service history and then getting rid of the engine (that has the service history) to replace it?? Itís also often hard to start and test drive a second hand engine before purchase so it can be a bit of a lotto.

Gen 1s donít seem to have many issues with diffs, transmissions, or transfer cases, even if they donít have perfectly recorded service history.

I would think youíd be better buying a diesel and using the money you would have spent on the conversion (buying the engine etc) to give the mechanics (brakes, shocks, etc) a once over

I plan to keep the car petrol for a while , maybe until the engine shows signs excessive wear , then maybe i will sell it on or swap a diesel in , going to drive the car for at least a year before thinking of converting it , this is a really nice example though ,interior looks allmost brand new except for a tear in drivers seat , as you said would be a shame to remove the engine that has the service history in replacement of one that most likely doesn't. Thanks for the help
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Old 05-09-19
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Another conversion to consider is Magna EFI on the 2.6.

You'll need to do some googlework to figure out heads / manifolds, but if you get it all running you'll have more power than the diesel, and you won't be too far behind on torque - that's using the factory ECU. It will also improve your fuel consumption, but the 2.6 has never been considered economical. If you want to start playing with aftermarket ECUs you can probably tune the 2.6 to outperform the diesel every which way.

I did this conversion (factory ECU) to a Sigma about 10 years ago, and after doing all the initial groundwork (making sure the manifold was ready to bolt on, fuel pump installed and ready to go, don't recall what else) the vehicle wasn't off the road for too long - I reckon it was only a couple of days in the garage.

The down side is that suitable parts are probably getting harder to find, but you'll get a lot of that with a Gen 1 anyway.
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NT Platinum. DiD Auto with 265/70R17 Toyo MT, Lift, Lockers, Lockup Mate, Low range reduction, LRA Aux tank, bull bar, winch, lots of touring stuff. Flappy paddles. MMCS is gone!

Project: NJ SWB. 285/75R16 ST Maxx, 2" OME suspension, 2" body lift, ARB 110, 120l tank, bullbar, scratches, no major dents. Fully engineered in SA. NW DiD & auto in place - a long way to go....

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Old 05-09-19
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I did an EFI Conversion to my 88 NE SWB 2.6 many years ago. (like probably '94-95 or so)

TR Magna Inlet manifold (Longer runners, better low down torque) with the Throttle body cut and shut to the other side ( remember Magna is an East West engine, so bolting it straight up means it will hit the firewall otherwise.)

I ran the factory injectors/ fuel rail etc - standard tank - just replaced fuel lines and fitted a 1.5L swirl pot under the car to ensure constant fuel supply when the factory tank was low. Standard Holley style pump from the tank to the swirl pot, then High Pressure pump to supply the fuel rail with a return to the tank.
I was lucky that Haltech helped me out and I used one of their first "Fuel Only" ECUs, Ignition was factory distributor

Went bloody well, but all the extra Torque and power caused me to blow a few diffs and 1 gearbox... Long gone now, no idea where it is - probably written off as I sold it to a young kid who I don't think drove it carefully.....
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Old 06-09-19
Ratbago Ratbago is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nj swb View Post
Another conversion to consider is Magna EFI on the 2.6.

You'll need to do some googlework to figure out heads / manifolds, but if you get it all running you'll have more power than the diesel, and you won't be too far behind on torque - that's using the factory ECU. It will also improve your fuel consumption, but the 2.6 has never been considered economical. If you want to start playing with aftermarket ECUs you can probably tune the 2.6 to outperform the diesel every which way.

I did this conversion (factory ECU) to a Sigma about 10 years ago, and after doing all the initial groundwork (making sure the manifold was ready to bolt on, fuel pump installed and ready to go, don't recall what else) the vehicle wasn't off the road for too long - I reckon it was only a couple of days in the garage.

The down side is that suitable parts are probably getting harder to find, but you'll get a lot of that with a Gen 1 anyway.
Sounds like a more viable option , and the quicker turn around would be good , i am not that fussed on the engines output figures but more fuel economy , i prefer reliability over fuel economy though so i guess that is the trade off , i dont mind spending a bit more on fuel if i know im going to get back from were i am going , Thanks for the help again.
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Old 06-09-19
Ratbago Ratbago is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MSF View Post
I did an EFI Conversion to my 88 NE SWB 2.6 many years ago. (like probably '94-95 or so)

TR Magna Inlet manifold (Longer runners, better low down torque) with the Throttle body cut and shut to the other side ( remember Magna is an East West engine, so bolting it straight up means it will hit the firewall otherwise.)

I ran the factory injectors/ fuel rail etc - standard tank - just replaced fuel lines and fitted a 1.5L swirl pot under the car to ensure constant fuel supply when the factory tank was low. Standard Holley style pump from the tank to the swirl pot, then High Pressure pump to supply the fuel rail with a return to the tank.
I was lucky that Haltech helped me out and I used one of their first "Fuel Only" ECUs, Ignition was factory distributor

Went bloody well, but all the extra Torque and power caused me to blow a few diffs and 1 gearbox... Long gone now, no idea where it is - probably written off as I sold it to a young kid who I don't think drove it carefully.....

Do you know if there are any longer intake manifolds for the carby setup , sounds like a bit of work but im sure it was worth it . Around how much did all that set you back , i can imagine a fair bit considering the cost of ecus . Thanks for the help mate
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Old 06-09-19
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Originally Posted by Ratbago View Post
Do you know if there are any longer intake manifolds for the carby setup , sounds like a bit of work but im sure it was worth it . Around how much did all that set you back , i can imagine a fair bit considering the cost of ecus . Thanks for the help mate
The TR series Magna 4Cyl had the longest inlet runners of all the EFI Astron 2.6L models.
All the Carby models were basically the same manifold.

The cut and shut on the Manifold to swap the ends of the Throttle Body was the hardest thing - and it cost me $250 from an engineering place. - Anyone with a drop saw and can aluminium weld should be able to do it for you.
The ECU at the time was around $800 (Big money) - But I am not even sure if they still make anything that basic.
You could always get the factory ECU and get it re-pinned to suit the Pajero (ie, depending if you have cruise / air con etc...
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