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Changing head gasket on Falcon 6 cyl. - advice appreciated

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  • GHendo
    Valued Member
    • Mar 2012
    • 4375
    • Northern NSW

    Changing head gasket on Falcon 6 cyl. - advice appreciated

    Hi everyone

    I know this is a bit away from the usually mechanical info on here but there are some very knowledgeable people on the forum, and I thought I'd ask and see what comes up. I've had a look at a Ford forum and got some info off it already but decided to ask here anyway and hope to get some advice from familiar names who answer about my Pajero.

    My wife's EL Falcon with the 4.1lt. 6 cyl. motor has what is apparently a very common fault with these motors - a head gasket leaking water (to the outside) up near cylinder 6. It's been doing it for a while and not affecting the engine?s running etc. and we have been adding about 250 to 500ml. of water a week to the cooling system. It?s one of those ?gunno-do? jobs I never seem to get around to ? and now, of course, at the least convenient time it looks like it will have to be done pronto.

    Last week my hand had an argument with my angle grinder and the hand came off second best ? index finger had the tendon exposed etc. and after an overnight stay in hospital the wife came to collect me in the Falcon and announced that the engine was heating up even though the water level looked ok. The temperature goes up to about ? or more when turned off and then the engine is hard to start ? runs rough for a minute or so when it does fire up ? it?s always started very easily. I?ve no idea what has caused this sudden change but suspect it might be leaking a small amount of water into the cylinders ? the oil looks ok, not white or anything ? not yet anyway. The temp seems to drop then rise again as you drive alone ? hmmm, could be a couple of things I guess.

    Anyway, I?ve decided to change the head gasket and not risk further damage ? possibly warp the head or something. My son is coming home for the holidays in a couple of weeks so seeing I?m a bit hog-tied with this bloody hand and don?t want to get too much grease and crap in it, think I?ll leave it until he gets here to undo all the hard-to-get-to bolts etc. In the meantime I want to get everything ready, so I?ve made a list of what I think I should get, renew etc.

    One of the first things I?ve noticed on forums is people say to replace the head gasket with the metal shim one used on the AU engines and not the graphite type as originally used on the EL. Any info would be most welcome and comments about what I should replace or if I am going over the top a bit with some of the things on the list would also be great. The vehicle has done only about 167,000km. even though it is a 1998 model.

    My list is ...

    Head gasket kit including new bolts.
    New radiator ? old one is original.
    New radiator/coolant hoses throughout
    New radiator cap, thermostat and water pump
    Head service from local engine shop
    New drive belt
    Check bearings in Idler Pulleys and replace as necessary

    As you can see I don?t intend visiting this area again in the near future ? have I forgotten anything?

    Cheers

    Geoff
    03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.
  • schnitzel
    Valued Member
    • Dec 2009
    • 2477
    • Bendigo

    #2
    Odds are that the head is cracked and will need to be replaced, every one i have seen welded up cracks again within 2 years and your symptoms are exactly what i have seen numerous times.

    Before you go pulling it apart I would check the price of second hand motors, they are really quite cheap for these and their are bucketloads out there, and is often quicker , easier and cheaper than doing a head gasket.

    There is nothing special with the ofrd in doing the head is pretty much standard the way it has always been.
    Current vehicles: 2017 Toyota Hilux, 2022 Hyundai Kona,2022 VW T-Cross1995 3.5l nj Pajero , 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 , 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495,chamberlain g6 plus a few other odds and ends

    Comment

    • Goodsy
      Who ya gunna call....
      • Dec 2010
      • 7598
      • Hervey Bay

      #3
      For starters you don't need a belt as the EL runs a timming chain.
      Get the head looked at. I doubt it will need any work unless the engine has over heated.

      I have changed a head gasket in an EH falcon ute. My old mans. Same motor. Never again.
      The head bolts are bloody tight. Took a breaker bar and a metre extension to undo them on the ute.
      When they crack you'd reckon you've broken them. But all is good.
      Do you have a workshop manual? The chain tensioner is a bit of a fiddle to loosen.

      While you there replace the plug leads as you can only get at the dizzy with the intake manifold off. A real. PITA.

      So add plugs and leads to your list.
      Radiator is due so good idea to replace it.
      No idler pulleys to worry about. Not a belt.

      Any other questions. Fire away. It's a bitch of a job. Back breaking. But can be done at home if you have the mechanical aptitude. And right tools.
      .Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
      NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.

      Comment

      • Martynhpajero
        Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 186
        • Mount Gambier

        #4
        Did my EF twice. Had to do it the second time because i didnt use new bolts. Live and learn! Broke two sockets trying to undo the head bolts. Then got a 6 point impact socket good quality(14mm I think) and got them out they sure are tight! Also had to strip it down to a bare block and get the top of the block surfaced because it had a lot of pitting around number six cylinder and I really didnt want to go back for round three...
        I went to ford for the new upgraded bolts I think maybe AU series three they changed.
        NJ Exceed, Alloy bullbar, factory locker,ORU 9000lb winch, eBay snorkle,31" AT's
        NL GLS 2.8, PC Challenger auto for the wife.

        Comment

        • GHendo
          Valued Member
          • Mar 2012
          • 4375
          • Northern NSW

          #5
          Thanks for the replies guys

          Schnitzel, I've had this vehicle since new and therefore know its whole history. I would be a bit scared of inheriting someone elses problems if I got a whole new motor - doing a motor change would be a pain in the bum as well - particularly seeing mine is manual - mostly autos. out there - I dunno, maybe you just bolt the old flywheel on - maybe it's more complicated than that.

          Goodsy, the belt I was referring to is the serpentine belt that goes around the air conditioner, alternator etc. I did intend replacing the HT leads and spark plugs as well - great minds think alike, eh !!

          I found a very good tutorial on this site this afternoon ... you need to joint the forum to get it.

          http://www.fordmods.com/

          it details exactly what you have to do for an EL head gasket change - all 26 pages of it !!

          Cheers

          Geoff
          03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

          Comment

          • Pauly Faulkner
            Valued Member
            • Feb 2012
            • 6561
            • Maitland, NSW

            #6
            They have the Full workshop manual on there as well
            I got it for my brother not along ago when he had no spark, i told him it was IGN module or coil but he didn't listen...Ended up being the IGN module
            97' NK 3ltr GLX LWB Manual | 3" lift | Wildcat headers | K&N air filter | 2.8 crawl gears | 4Terrain clutch | 2.25" exhaust | Factory locker rear | TJM 10,000lb winch | TJM snorkel
            97' NL GLS LWB Auto | 6G75 3.8ltr | Redback Headers

            Comment

            • schnitzel
              Valued Member
              • Dec 2009
              • 2477
              • Bendigo

              #7
              Originally posted by GHendo View Post
              Thanks for the replies guys

              Schnitzel, I've had this vehicle since new and therefore know its whole history. I would be a bit scared of inheriting someone elses problems if I got a whole new motor - doing a motor change would be a pain in the bum as well - particularly seeing mine is manual - mostly autos. out there - I dunno, maybe you just bolt the old flywheel on - maybe it's more complicated than that.

              Goodsy, the belt I was referring to is the serpentine belt that goes around the air conditioner, alternator etc. I did intend replacing the HT leads and spark plugs as well - great minds think alike, eh !!

              I found a very good tutorial on this site this afternoon ... you need to joint the forum to get it.

              http://www.fordmods.com/

              it details exactly what you have to do for an EL head gasket change - all 26 pages of it !!

              Cheers

              Geoff
              I know what your saying but doing the head on these can turn expensive quickly at times and s/h motors are cheap as. There is no difference between the manual and auto motors, you just swap the flexplate for the flywheel.
              Am only suggesting an option, swapping the motor is actually a lot less work than doing the head gasket.
              They can be a pain in the butt as everything is bloody tight on them, make sure if you do do the head you get the head crack tested and use genuine new head bols as the are TTY type and cant be reused. Isb ddoable by an experienced DIY'er is just a fairly big job.
              Current vehicles: 2017 Toyota Hilux, 2022 Hyundai Kona,2022 VW T-Cross1995 3.5l nj Pajero , 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 , 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495,chamberlain g6 plus a few other odds and ends

              Comment

              • GHendo
                Valued Member
                • Mar 2012
                • 4375
                • Northern NSW

                #8
                I'll keep it in mind Schnitzel,

                I've dismantled engines before but haven't done one in a while - never a Falcon, and am just trying to make sure I know where I am going. Can't remember removing a complete engine since I had to cut the rust from my old LJ Suzuki (two-stroke model - my first 4WD) way back probably in the 1980s.

                Have been doing a fair bit of research on what is involved and think I should be good. I've got a couple of mechanic mates if I get really stuck and the bloke who is going to do the head service for me seems very knowledgeable and helpful.

                Using new head bolts is apparently a must but I am wondering about everyone on the Ford forums recommending the AU type metal shim head gasket, when nobody locally says to use it - in fact they say to replace the ones on the AU with the graphite type. I think I'll have to go with the recommendations of the guy who is servicing the head and use the graphite one that he supplies. He's also going to do a slight grind on the cam for me and can apparently modify the valve seating accordingly so that I don't have to use shims to allow for the cam grind. I wouldn't mind having the head ported and polished but seeing it is the wife's car I'd better not go too overboard - she might not appreciate driving around in something that is capable of burning rubber every time she takes off!! It is bringing back memories of when I did up the 3.3lt motor in my 1973 Torana and added a bit of go to it - oh, happy days!!

                Cheers

                Geoff
                03 NP Manual Di-D Exceed, 2" lift, Dobinsons Springs, Lovells Shocks, ORU Winch, ARB Bullbar, Scott's Rods 3" Exhaust, ARB Compressor, Rear Air Locker, Cooper S/T Maxx, Hella Rallye 4000 S/Lights, Pioneer AVH-X5850BT DVD/Tuner w/- Reversing Camera, Sensa Tyre monitor, Uniden UH8080NB UHF, Rhino Platform Roof Rack, Hema HN-7 GPS, Engine Watchdog, CouplerTec, CTEK D250S DC-DC Charger, Snorkel, Towbar.

                Comment

                • bakerboy
                  "valued 3000+ member"
                  • May 2008
                  • 3423
                  • Perth

                  #9
                  Did the head gasket in our bush basher EB falcon on the side of the road at a mates place, got some strange looks, and no surprise it was cyl 6 full of water.

                  Use the metal gasket, new mono torque head bolts, and try and source the chain tensioner tool or at least practice the motion of undoing and re doing it. Good luck, and don't forgot to put all the vacuum lines back on before you take it for a drive, we may have forgotten the brake booster line...
                  If I agreed with you, then we would both be wrong

                  '89 NG Paj, 3L V6, now running 2" suspension lift, 33" Micky T Baja Claws's, Front LOKKA & 12,000lb winch

                  Comment

                  • YCJCYASATB
                    Junior Member
                    • Nov 2011
                    • 31
                    • Bowral / At Sea

                    #10
                    Hi Geoff.

                    I would look at using the AU MSL gasket. I would really trust those guys over there on Ford Forums. They love these engines and they know what products to use. I used 1 on my ED Falcon when I had the engine rebuilt. Had no problems what so ever. If you are interested have a look at Jim Mock Motorsport. Probably phone them up and ask what head gasket they use. That you got 167000 out of an original head gasket is amazing. I had the cooling channels modified on my head to assist as well. I worked that built engine hard and never had any head gasket problems.

                    I wouldn't worry about port and polish on these heads, they flow extremely well out of the box, I just had mine port matched. I also had a big cam and stally. Get the right cam in and they come alive. Sorry to get all nostalgic, bringing back memories of being young with not a care in the world.

                    With regards to what else to change. I think you've got the list right. I'm always one for replacing as many parts as possible when building/repairing. You can also get sodium filled exhaust valves for these if you're interested

                    Cheers, Evan.

                    Comment

                    • schnitzel
                      Valued Member
                      • Dec 2009
                      • 2477
                      • Bendigo

                      #11
                      our BA had the factory head gasket which I believe was a metal shim type, we traded it last year on a jeep, it had 403000 k on it and had never had the engine touched for anything more than sparkplugs. Am a member on the ford forums as well and those guys are pretty clued up on what works so if that is what they are recommending i would be doing it that way if it was me replacing the gasket.
                      Current vehicles: 2017 Toyota Hilux, 2022 Hyundai Kona,2022 VW T-Cross1995 3.5l nj Pajero , 1995 2.8td Mitsubishi Delica,2011 , 2 x 1971 ta 22 celicas, 74 ta 22 celica, ke 35 corollla with 18rg, 95 gtr 1000, 79 leyland terrier bus ( 350 chev),1978 ke 35 corolla, 1980 ra 40 celica 18rgeu,2011 agricat jd495,chamberlain g6 plus a few other odds and ends

                      Comment

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