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Traction Control, ABS and ASC Light

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  • dencoby
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2015
    • 11
    • Redcliffe QLD

    Traction Control, ABS and ASC Light

    Gday All,
    Ive been away from the forum for a bit but now im back.
    I have the dreaded 3 light combo giving me grief at the moment.

    Things I have checked and tried.

    ABS fuses, in cabin and engine bay
    Stop light fuse
    Hazard fuse
    Brake Fluid
    Visually checked ABS sensors
    New battery 6 weeks ago
    Disconnected battery overnight

    I have tried 2 obd2 scanners both couldn't check abs system(cheap bluetooth one and a Bosch one)

    Does anyone have any further suggestions before sending off to MM?
    Is there another way to find out what the fault is? Would rather fix myself.

    Thank You
  • kiwi1973
    Valued Member
    • Sep 2012
    • 1178
    • New Zealand

    #2
    What preceded this fault? Did you cross deep water or were you offroading when it occurred?

    Given the tests you've already conducted it is likely to be an ABS sensor. Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it? If so I can put up some basic ABS sensor tests that you can do yourself to see if you can narrow it down to one of the wheel speed (ABS) sensors.

    Actually, I guided someone else though some basic testing recently and you may be able to search for my post. Otherwise I'll see if I can find it - if you confirm you're comfortable using a multimeter to test (1) resistance values and (2) test for AC voltage being generated.
    2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

    Comment

    • dencoby
      Junior Member
      • Jan 2015
      • 11
      • Redcliffe QLD

      #3
      Thanks for the reply kiwi1973

      Just started it up on Sunday night to pick up some dinner. Have not been offroad in 6 months.

      Im happy to use a test meter no problem, i can also ask the old man if I get stuck.

      Comment

      • kiwi1973
        Valued Member
        • Sep 2012
        • 1178
        • New Zealand

        #4
        Here's the basic procedure that hopefully will help you to identify a faulty wheel speed sensor (if one is at fault):


        Test 1 - Resistance

        Set meter to KOhms. Disconnect each wheel speed sensor and insert a piece of wire or paper clip into the connector (the connector end that goes to the sensor at the wheel) and test for resistance. the reason for inserting wire/paperclip is just because your meter probes won't fit directly. A healthy sensor will read up to around 1.5kohms as I recall. If the resistance is hugely different, or there is no resistance at all, then you've found your faulty sensor.

        Test 2 - AC voltage

        Jack up each wheel one at a time, with vehicle immobolised and in neutral. Set meter to the lowest AC voltage setting. You'll need someone to hold the meter wires, or use little crocodile clips if your meter has them. Now give the jacked up wheel a spin and test to see if an AC voltage is being generated at the sensor as the wheel spins.

        If any connector is found to be dirty/contaminated during the test process then that may also be the cause. They can be cleaned out by spraying liberally with contact cleaner.

        I used this procedure on my car just recently and because my fault was intermittent it wasn't until the 3rd test of the front left sensor that it failed the above tests. I replaced that sensor and the issue was solved. (I don't buy sensors from Mitsubishi - Chinese aftermarket ones can be good, but they sometimes have crappy connectors making it important to use dielectric grease when reassembling, or else water contamination may subsequently cause an issue to return).
        2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

        Comment

        • kiwi1973
          Valued Member
          • Sep 2012
          • 1178
          • New Zealand

          #5
          You can also check that all the teeth are present on the wheel speed rotors. Check none are broken off or obstructed in any way.
          2007 Shogun 3.2DID. UK Diamond Spec. Harrop Eaton front E-locker. MCC Bullbar. Runva 11XP winch. 17" Dotz rims with 32" STT Pro. Koni HT RAID 90 series with +2" EHD Lovells springs. ASFIR protection plates for engine & transmission. DIY steel rocksliders. LRA 81 litre auxiliary fuel tank. Waeco CFX-40. Home made drawers & fridge slide. Dual power - 120a/h AGM with CTEK DC-DC. LED lighting. 43 litre water tank with two electric pumps - one for tap (via filter) & one via heat exchanger.

          Comment

          • scribble88
            Valued Member
            • Mar 2014
            • 529
            • Geraldton, WA

            #6
            Great bit of advice Kiwi1973. I am not having this issue at the moment, but it is great to know where to look if I have this issue.
            2010 3.2 DiD Activ Pajero 5sp Manual. Bilstein and HD Lovells 50mm lift, Toyo Open Country II A/T, Diff breathers, SPV EGR Mod, Exedy HD Clutch, Electric brake controller, Kings Lethal 9” LED’s.Reversing camera system for trailer, Airtec Snorkel. Full set of Bushskinz bash plates.

            Comment

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