IMO a well setup shop would have no trouble dropping the crossmember, its only 4 bolts plus supporting the tranny. Most would have vehicle hoists & rattle guns, so doing that would be 10-15 mins max, IMO. Cant see why they say its a big job. Also best to spend extra $$ & get a full flush done.
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Automatic Transmission Service
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NT transmission service
I got the trannie serviced at 110k km after following the service schedule to the letter at MM .the mechanics said the sump had never been off and that the filter was partially blocked. They were not surprised that it hadn't been serviced properly but said it should have been.the transmission has never been smoother .$330 well spent. They recommend that the filter gets changed at every service at approx 40k intervals.
I am glad I read this forum
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Originally posted by christiansen View PostI got the trannie serviced at 110k km after following the service schedule to the letter at MM .the mechanics said the sump had never been off and that the filter was partially blocked. They were not surprised that it hadn't been serviced properly but said it should have been.the transmission has never been smoother .$330 well spent. They recommend that the filter gets changed at every service at approx 40k intervals.
I am glad I read this forum
Did they do a full transmission flush or just drop the pan replace the strainer and refill?
Claiming the strainer needs replacing every 40K seems like touting for work.
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Trannie service
Originally posted by BruceandBobbi View PostDid they do a full transmission flush or just drop the pan replace the strainer and refill?
Claiming the strainer needs replacing every 40K seems like touting for work.
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Originally posted by christiansen View PostI was charged for 6 l of fluid so not sure. The filter was blocked so service was necessary
6 litres means no flush. Box holds 9.7 litres and takes around 10 litres to flush and then another 9.7 to refill. Thats on the Jatco box. I should image the Aisin would be the same or close.
You still have close to 40% of the old oil in there.
I have never heard of a strainer being blocked. Others may have.
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Transmission Service
I serviced my NT myself. I did it by flushing it out by disconnecting the hoses from the transmission cooler in front of the radiator. You need to remove the bash plate, as you would for an engine oil change. Disconnect the spring loaded clip from the rubber hose, then stick a bit of plastic hose onto the pipe so you can direct the flow into a waste container. Get someone to start the engine, and then stop it the moment it starts to splutter. Do this with the transmission in Park!
By the way, check the fluid level before you even start. To do this, remove the filler plug, then use something as a dipstick to check the level. I used a large allen key as a dipstick, which wouldn't accidentally fall inside. The fill plug is on the left side of the transmission near the rear of the transmission; it's on a sort of a ledge, you may need a mirror to find it, then you need a torque drive socket to remove the plug.
Buy about 2 mtrs of 10mm clear plastic tube and stick it in the filler hole, then run the tube up into the engine bay a jam a small funnel into it and put some tape around it so it won't fall out or leak.
Each time you run the engine to drain the transmission then refill it will take a few litres or so, I can't recall exactly how much. I found I needed to flush about 15 litres of fluid through it before I was happy with the colour.
Yes, changing the filter is a big job involving dropping the cross member and supporting the transmission and it's really messy. Personally, I wouldn't bother changing the filter. I did mine at 150,000 kms because I thought it was a good idea and the car had done about 50,000kms of towing a large caravan around Australia. To satisfy my curiosity I pried the old filter apart to see what was inside and there was hardly any metal etc in it at all, so I have no intention of doing again.
Do a final check of the fill level, then take it for a short drive and check it again if you are not sure of yourself.
Final step: Go have a shower, then have a beer.
Trusting this helps a few of you out there.2010 NT Pajero diesel auto, RX specs. (Basic GLX with a bit of bling such as rear air conditioning) Stock as a rock.
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Transmission Service
I serviced my NT myself. I did it by flushing it out by disconnecting the hoses from the transmission cooler in front of the radiator. You need to remove the bash plate, as you would for an engine oil change. Disconnect the spring loaded clip from the rubber hose, then stick a bit of plastic hose onto the pipe so you can direct the flow into a waste container. Get someone to start the engine, and then stop it the moment it starts to splutter. Do this with the transmission in Park!
By the way, check the fluid level before you even start. To do this, remove the filler plug, then use something as a dipstick to check the level. I used a large allen key as a dipstick, which wouldn't accidentally fall inside. The fill plug is on the left side of the transmission near the rear of the transmission; it's on a sort of a ledge, you may need a mirror to find it, then you need a torque drive socket to remove the plug.
Buy about 2 mtrs of 10mm clear plastic tube and stick it in the filler hole, then run the tube up into the engine bay a jam a small funnel into it and put some tape around it so it won't fall out or leak.
Each time you run the engine to drain the transmission then refill it will take a few litres or so, I can't recall exactly how much. I found I needed to flush about 15 litres of fluid through it before I was happy with the colour.
Yes, changing the filter is a big job involving dropping the cross member and supporting the transmission and it's really messy. Personally, I wouldn't bother changing the filter. I did mine at 150,000 kms because I thought it was a good idea and the car had done about 50,000kms of towing a large caravan around Australia. To satisfy my curiosity I pried the old filter apart to see what was inside and there was hardly any metal etc in it at all, so I have no intention of doing again.
Do a final check of the fill level, then take it for a short drive and check it again if you are not sure of yourself.
Final step: Go have a shower, then have a beer.
Trusting this helps a few of you out there.2010 NT Pajero diesel auto, RX specs. (Basic GLX with a bit of bling such as rear air conditioning) Stock as a rock.
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Originally posted by GordonC View PostTrusting this helps a few of you out there.
Thanks Gordon. Your post kinda cleared things up for me. I picked up a used 2009 NT 3.2 DID which had been used only in urban area with no towing/off-road duties. My truck has done 100K kms.
I was debating whether to do a AT fluid flush like you described or whether to drop the PAN. But, I think for a lightly used truck dropping the PAN and changing the filter at 100K kms maybe an overkill. I decided to do a full fluid change as you described and then dot he PAN drop and filter change a 200K with a complete fluid change at 150K.
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Adelaide Auto Trans Service
Had mine done by Auto Trans in Hampstead Gardens by Kon for $250 recently and cannot fault the service and customer service.
Anyone that doesn't change their filter at service should think of the big picture and what it would cost to rebuilt the tranny.
If I did the service myself (and I'm capable as a motor tech) I'm sure the cost of parts and the chance of getting very grotty was well worth the $250.
Our Paj's are precious to us and sometimes professions need to be utilised to save us big dollars in the big picture!My19 ZL Outlander Diesel Auto. Ultra Gauge MX, Uniden CB, 270 Batwing Awning, Catch Can
WARNING: Towballs used for recoveries can, and do kill people.
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