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MMA advised me that I should put additive in for every fuel fill. At $15 a pop any economy gain on petrol is lost. Is this necessary? How often should I add this stuff & is it important to use MMA products?
Thanks
Thanks
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No you don't need it. $15 is better spent filling with good fuel..Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
NS VRX DiD auto. RIP. -
good fuel?
Do you mean BP & shell?Comment
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Not united or the independents.
BP & Shell fine. Cannot fix a tank of crap fuel with a $15 additive.
Just buy the good stuff..Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.Comment
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The mitsu additive is crap anyway id rather add liqui moly diesel purge to the tank than the mitsu stuffOriginally posted by Goodsy View PostComment
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Get the name of the person and ask MMA customer service if this is needed.
This sounds very very suspicious to me.....does the person recommending the additive give any reason? I have heard many reasons not to use additives. Some even cause damage like bore glazing, filter blocking, sensor coating etc.Originally posted by christiansen View Post
I'd get the person recommending this to put it in writing then scan/fax to MMA and get them to say this is correct....many people on here would like to see MMA technical response to this "recommendation"!
My NT 3.2 DiD has now covered 165,000 kilometres and with not a drop of additive.
Cheers and keep us posted
David
Busselton WAComment
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I have a very good friend who is a Doctor of Science and and works for the defence Force looking after and advising on Fuels and Lubricants. The first this he said to me when I told him I bought a Diesel powered car was to run an Additive.
Now the arm chair experts out there say its not nessesary which is fine you guys are experts to, but as he was an ex Aircraft Maintenance Engineer before heading to Uni to study I will take his word for it...because he knows his stuff.....I use F10 and have been since new and this used by trawler crews out of Freo.
He gave me plenty of reasons to use F10 to prolong the life of engine fuel system components especially injectors so make up your own minds I know who Im listening to...2011 NT RX 3.2DiD.ARB Winch Bar,Avenger 9500lb Winch,ARB Lockers,OME 2' Lifted Suspension,Poly Airs,58lt LRA Tank, Redarc Dual Battery Kit,Snorkel,Rock Sliders,GME UHF TX3340,265/70R17 MTZ's,Full Under Body Protection,48lt S/S Water Tank,HID Spot Lights,LED Light Bar,Custom Made Rear Draws,Diff Breathers,Diesel Smart Module,B&M Tranny Cooler,Dual Wheel Carrier,Rear,Camp Light,In Dash GPS,Coupler Tech,Tyre Monitors,Scan Gauge,3' Manta Exh,HPD InterCooler,RhinoRack etcComment
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Cost effective Maintainance
Go the to www.costeffectivemaintainace site Brid Walker is a chemical engineer who has been giving me the heads up and selling me various products. for 25 years He has a CRD additive available now on the net. Get to his site and have a read I would not drive my paj without CRD. I recently took the EGR system off the NT DID and the intake manifold to clean it out. It was spotless. I also use sludge cleaner once a year and the inside of the motor is spotless the oil that is put in after a sludge clean is still clear a fortnight later. Read his information he will even send you out a sample if you are keen for postage cost only, Ben2010 Pajero VRX auto wagon, Cooper A/T 3's, 40mm lift, Lovells, Bilsteins, Polyair bags, Factory Nudge bar, driving lights, dual air cond, DVD player (rear) Hayman Reese Super Heavy Duty Tow bar, Bushskinz front/intercooler and engine sump, Polaris towing camera system, Clearview Mirrors, tows 2013 dual axle Jayco Outback Discovery Caravan. Redlec battery shutoff, Polaris HUD speedo. 400LMT Navman GPS. GME 88 channel UHF Radio. Bendix Stealth 4WD Disc PadsComment
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I'll stick with running a bottle of Liqui-Moly Diesel Purge Plus every 20000k's and buying good fuel.
I think that bad fuel far outways what any additive can do.
My opinion only..Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.Comment
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Heh Goodsy would love to buy good fuel where ever I go but unfortunatley where I drive you dont always get that choice mate of a BP etc.... If you are just a city 4wd'er its not a problem for you...2011 NT RX 3.2DiD.ARB Winch Bar,Avenger 9500lb Winch,ARB Lockers,OME 2' Lifted Suspension,Poly Airs,58lt LRA Tank, Redarc Dual Battery Kit,Snorkel,Rock Sliders,GME UHF TX3340,265/70R17 MTZ's,Full Under Body Protection,48lt S/S Water Tank,HID Spot Lights,LED Light Bar,Custom Made Rear Draws,Diff Breathers,Diesel Smart Module,B&M Tranny Cooler,Dual Wheel Carrier,Rear,Camp Light,In Dash GPS,Coupler Tech,Tyre Monitors,Scan Gauge,3' Manta Exh,HPD InterCooler,RhinoRack etcComment
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My local a k from home in a United. 10k's get's me Shell. I hate driving out of town to pay more for fuel.
You have to fight your mind.
.Previously an NP GLX 3.8 auto RIP
NS VRX DiD auto. RIP.Comment
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I gotta drive 180km to get bp or shell. but 90km will get me caltex and that's the closest...NT ACTIV 2010 DID ManualComment
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Thanfully the closest three servos to me are bp and caltex and the two most convenient on the way to work are bp.2010 NT GLS DiD Auto Silver | TJM T13 Bullbar | Lightforce LED 180 Spotlights | Runva 11XP | Dual Batteries | TJM snorkel | Bushskinz & TJM bash plates | Custom alloy roof rack | Sunseeker II Awning | MDC RTT | EGR Block | Bilstein/Lovells | Dick Cepek Fun Country tyres | Wet seat seatcovers | Uniden UH7760NB | Parrot Asteroid Smart | Morel, Soundstream and Kicker Audio | MM Cargo Barrier | Storage Drawer | Onboard water system |
See our latest adventures at http://www.treksandtinroofs.comComment
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Not quite sure why this would affect the inlet manifold, since no fuel passes through there, or am I missing something?Originally posted by csimic View PostComment
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