NT DID Cold Start Problem

[brucie_990]

Hi,

As a number of people have had over the years, my Pajero struggles to start up on a cold morning. The last two mornings have been the worst so far. Possible problems are either the glow plugs or associated wiring or the starter motor (2009 engine with 234000km on the clock). If I manage to get it started (haven't had any luck today yet) and the engine is warm, it starts no problem.

My question is that if the engine starts no problems after it is warm, does that suggest that the issue is more likely to be the glow plugs and/ or wiring or would that suggest starter motor troubles?

I am in the process of taking the starter motor off and prior to taking it off altogether, I just wanted to check. It looks like it will be tricky putting it back on.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[spot01]

Simple things first (before pulling the starter):


If not already done:
- check glow plug fuse/link
- check glow all plugs are getting power with a meter
- check glow plug leads are secure & making good contact to plugs
- is your battery good & connections cleaned? (check voltage before & during cranking, on battery posts & on leads)
- does it crank fast or slow when cold?
- does it crank much faster when warm?

The fact it starts OK warm doesn't really help to narrow it down to starter or plugs - it still could be either.

[BruceandBobbi]

Had the same problem here. Went to battery world to check the battery we purchased from them 14 month ago.

It was down to 577CCA from 720CCA. Free replacement battery and all good.

[brucie_990]

I still need to check the glow plugs and the associated relay.

The engine cranks over at what would be considered normal speed when cold. The battery seems to be in good condition. It was replaced 4 months ago and the voltage only drops to around 10V when attempting to start.

The fusable link appears good with visual observation.

I shall search the forum for a post on how to check the wiring harness relay. Possibly during the last service, they dislodged a wire at the back of a plug. All connectors are tight and clean. They didn't correctly tighten one of the bolts (only off by 1/4 of a turn) and the turbo wasn't providing normal performance.

[flyboy]

Is there any puffs of white smoke after it starts?

[brucie_990]

Yes. A nice thick plume of whitish smoke. The car is booked for a service at the start of July so I will try and do some trouble shooting in the mean time. These frosty mornings are not helping at all.

[flyboy]

Glow plugs then. Remove and test.

[JohnnyK]

Hi,
Had problems with my NT starting when cold. Couldn't figure it out, even at a service. Problem was simply the batter terminals. They looked clean and looked tight (couldn't move them easily by hand) but that was enough to do it. Suspect you have already done it, but clean and tighten battery terminals well.

Have not had an issue since, and just came back from camping in a state forest with 0 deg temps. Started first go.
Cheers,

[Purdy]

Simple things first (before pulling the starter):


If not already done:
- check glow plug fuse/link
- check glow all plugs are getting power with a meter
- check glow plug leads are secure & making good contact to plugs
- is your battery good & connections cleaned? (check voltage before & during cranking, on battery posts & on leads)
- does it crank fast or slow when cold?
- does it crank much faster when warm?

The fact it starts OK warm doesn't really help to narrow it down to starter or plugs - it still could be either.

Hi guys, Have the similar, battery tested and all good, same with alternator. Does anybody have wiring diagram for glow plugs?

Cheers

[erad]

Before you get too fat into the maze, check that the glow plugs are getting voltage when you turn the start key. If you are not, then the wiring arrangement for the glow plugs is fairly simple. According to the wiring diagram in my Max Elery W/S manual, the power comes to the glow plug relay via a white/blue wire, and then goes to the glow plug busbar via a black/blue wire,. The signal for the glow plug relay comes from the ECU via a yellow/red wire. That is all I could find on the glow plug wiring.

To test the glow plugs, the battery voltage shld be 11 - 13V and the coolant temp less than 40 Deg C. Turn the ignition ON and measure the voltage immediately. It should fall to 9 - 11 V. After 8 seconds, the voltage should drop to zero when the relay cuts out.

The glow plugs should have a resistance of 1.1 Ohms @ 20 Deg C. The glow plugs are tested when removed by applying 12 V to the terminal and the tip is then earthed. Testing should be with jumper leads because the current is quite high. The tip should glow red hot within 15 seconds.

[Peterng]

I will come at this from a different angle if it helps..
If you find that there is normal glow plug function, battery voltage and starter motor function and the motor turns well but the engine still fails to fire, there is a fuel supply issue.
This can be a pain, for when the motor is warm, the motor starts first time until you rest the vehicle overnight..problem happens again.
In checking this, first thing in the morning after a O/N rest, start the vehicle for 15 seconds..it should have fired up by then, if not, turn it off.
Open the bonnet, go to the manual pump primer on top the factory filter. holder...press on it, if it feels soft and easy to depress...bingo..fuel supply issue.
Hence, you will need to hand prime until the primer become stiff to pump..
Reason..a seal in fuel return valve within the fuel filter holder has become warn and the cold nights are shrinking the seal by a couple of thou, allowing the diesel to run back to the tank.
Fix..new fuel filter holder.
If not and the primer is hard to prime, then the fuel supply will not be an issue.. it will probably be an electrical / fuse / glow plug..issue.



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[Dutch68]

Thanks peterng I think/hope you just diagnosed my starting issues. Armed with the info from the others I checked the battery terminals (although it seemed to turn over as usual) and got out the test light on the busbar but all come up ok. Then you posted about trying the fuel filter pump.... BINGO. Now to find a new filter holder. Thanks peterng.

[Peterng]

No problem...

Also why you are at it...check the fuel cap as well.
What I mean is, when you are tightening the cap after a fill, there should be a bit of "resistance" before the "Clicking" from the continual turning of the cap will startup.
You can "feel" it..
If you don't feel that immediate resistance, the fuel cap internal rubber seal is warn or starting to wear, this will exacerbate the fuel supply problem.
It is best to go and buy a "GENUINE MMA" fuel filter cap..$64.00...

PS.
There must be a run on Fuel filter Brackets, for the Geelong dealer said it will a month before the fuel filter bracket supplies would be in Australia and another week to Geelong..price..$180.00 + GST.
So onto the bring up the website... amayama.com...put in my VIN..up comes a CAD drawing of the Pajero showing all of its parts/systems...bring up the Fuel System, zero into the CAD image of the Fuel Filter and sundry parts....Fuel Filter Bracket...cost $107.25 incl Postage and 2 weeks later a new bracket "Original MM Part and all" straight to my door.
How easy...
I pity these poor Stealership Spare Parts Divisions, they are living in denial...
You gotta luv the www...

[Dutch68]

Fuel cap seems fine. I tried to put my VIN into amayama but couldn’t recognise it? What frame number would I have? 09 nt LWB DiD vrx? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

[Peterng]

Fuel cap seems fine. I tried to put my VIN into amayama but couldn’t recognise it? What frame number would I have? 09 nt LWB DiD vrx? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The VIN plate is on the bottom of the B pillar, drivers side door.
I am lazy, so I get my rego papers out..
Then I put the VIN number into my phone, just in case I need to get to it.


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