2003 NP 3.2L DiD EWL & Code 41

[BBP]

I have a basic endoscope with an L.E.D light on the end. Stuck it down the intake manifold and could not seem to see anything clearly when shoving it down the curve into the bottom half. But the fact it kept coming out covered in black gooey crap was enough to convince me that A: the camera was getting covered hence not seeing much, and B: time to pull the damn thing off anyway or a proper look. Tried Liqui-moly cleaner etc, only cleared a little bit. Pulled it off and yep pretty clogged up. A good scrape out and a soak in the parts cleaner sorted it out. Also carefully cleaned the intake ports as they get clogged as well. Did make a difference so worth doing. Now that I will have to clean the Inter-cooler as that is probably coated with oil and doing stuff all. Catch can first though and maybe an upgraded Inter-cooler as well. Would like a front mount but don't want to loose the ability to install a winch.

Rob

[campingtechaust]

Economy has improved and I will work out exactly how much once I clock a few more KM's to average out the towing a bit.

Well I must say I'm pretty happy with the performance of the Pajero!
We just did a trip from Perth to Kalbarri and back with some gorge hopping in between over the long weekend.

10.3 l/100km over 800km on the return leg with an average speed of 88km/hr.
Overtaking is no longer a scary prospect with the Paj leap frogging the multitude of warmth seeking, north bound Grey Nomads with ease!

On the city grind I'm getting 14.5l/100kms so ok for me.

Happy car = happy driver

Cheers
Jason


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[campingtechaust]

PS- total respect to the grey nomads out there! I hope to be one, one day apart from the fact I don't have any hair to go grey!
Jas


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[rykiel575]

hi guys

i am suspecting i have some electrical issues and the culprit seems to be the APS.

I am thinking of ordering a 3rd party part to confirm the diagnosis and if it is what's causing it i will carry the old one in the car with me as a spare in case it shits itself (still works just no cruise control and the Stability control/traction control lights come on.

The part is here:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Auto-Parts-Original-TPS-8-Pins-Sensor-Throttle-Position-Sensor-For-Mitsubishi-Outlander-OEM-MR578861/32616312778.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.1.10842ca6FlYmzJ&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_4_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10130_5722815_10342_10547_10343_10340_5722915_10548_10341_5722615_10696_10084_10083_10618_10307_10131_5722715_10132_10133_10059_100031_10103_10624_10623_10622_5722515_10621_10620,searchweb201603_55,ppcSwitch_5&algo_expid=4a53bf81-4793-4aa7-87fd-806a0c6da52d-0&algo_pvid=4a53bf81-4793-4aa7-87fd-806a0c6da52d&priceBeautifyAB=0

My question though is that the chinese part doesn't come with the white plastic attachment. It is only the black plastic sensor. Is the white plastic part something that I can easily salvage from the old sensor (as in it wont break apart if I try and dismantle it) or am I better off getting the sensor+the white attachment part elsewhere?

Cheers

[crc4m41t]

Just keep in mind guys , the reason Mitsubishi say not to try pull codes on 2002 - 2005-6 ish , is they 99% are running MUTT , not OBD , so don’t rely on all them codes unless you drag them with MUTT3 .

With the APS , you have APS1 and APS2 , now far as I am aware , APS1 talks direct to the ecu ( potentiometer voltage) via the signal wire , it looks after your main acceleration and as dose the idle switch they pretty much cover the first side of the APS,


the second side or half is also a potentiometer but voltage is reversed and it gives signal along with the boost sensor to the injection volume module on the zexel pump.

So far as I am aware the APS 2 isn’t a back up , both side seem critical.