Heavy duty tierod? Do they exist?

[Roach]

Hi, guys, chasing some advice and/or solution to my tierod issues.

First off I'm running 37" tires on an NH shorty and continuously bend passenger side tirods. Is there any chance of getting stronger tierod?? Or is it something I have to deal with?

When I originally bought the car it had a bent passenger side tierod on standard tires. So there may be excessive wear somewhere?

I have replaced, both inners and outers on both sides including idler arm, upper and lower ball joints on both sides and still continue to bend them. Even before installing ball joint spacer and reindexing torsion bars bending tierod was an issue.

I don't need to 'give it the berries' due to tire size and front air locker. First low on a tuff track it still bends. If I do get into it too much it snaps tierod completely in half. I'll try post video to show what I mean. Cheers for your thoughts. P.s. I'm not interested in dropping tire size.

[nj swb]

Hi, guys, chasing some advice and/or solution to my tierod issues.

First off I'm running 37" tires on an NH shorty and continuously bend passenger side tirods. Is there any chance of getting stronger tierod?? Or is it something I have to deal with?

When I originally bought the car it had a bent passenger side tierod on standard tires. So there may be excessive wear somewhere?

I have replaced, both inners and outers on both sides including idler arm, upper and lower ball joints on both sides and still continue to bend them. Even before installing ball joint spacer and reindexing torsion bars bending tierod was an issue.

I don't need to 'give it the berries' due to tire size and front air locker. First low on a tuff track it still bends. If I do get into it too much it snaps tierod completely in half. I'll try post video to show what I mean. Cheers for your thoughts. P.s. I'm not interested in dropping tire size.

Sorry bud - you are running way outside the design intent, and Pajero is way outside radar range of the companies that build after-market bits. You're pretty much on your own.

You might be able to improve things with a different offset - what offset are you running now?

[stumagoo]

2 things come to mind - I have heard non genuine are not so great for strength - and how much lift are you running? A couple of our crew are running 3-4" of suspension lift now and this has happened here as well - we are not sure if its the balljoint binding and bending the rod - the angle of the tierod pushing the geometry out of spec and causing a loading on the setup (the angle of the tierod and Idler is so great that loading it is bending stuff instead of transfering through the shafts and causing it to alter the steering position)or a combination.

but no we have found no off the shelf alternative yet

[erad]

To me, it sounds as if the suspension arm is loose and allowing the wheel to travel forward under heavy acceleration. The tie rod then becomes the locating arm and it is not man enough to take it. Check the suspension for excessive (or any) fore/aft movement. I have never heard of such a condition.

[stumagoo]

our ones are breaking when we get a hit coming down from a wheel lift. if we are not carefull it also can aloow the wheel to turn beyond the range of the outer CV at full droop if you miss it and lift again - that destroys the outer CV then - only time I have seen an outer go boom on a gen 2

[Paj man]

Weren't the 555 brand tie rods meant to be you beaut?

I saw a couple of WA boys make the switch but no follow up report.

[NJV6]

When on full lock are your stubs touching the steering stops at the front and rear of the lower ball joint?

[stumagoo]

1 of our guys has broken 555 rod ends. But after research there may be differences in them depending on manufacturing locations. Have seen anecdotal evidence suggesting some are not made the same as others.

[Roach]

Nj swb- rim offset is -44 16 x 10"

Stumagoo- suspension is efs 2" lift, original torsion bars (not heavy duty) reindexed 1 notch, upper ball joint spacer 1", also running 3" body lift but has no real effect on steering geometry. Interesting thought about ball joint binding! It isn't on the best angle. However with wheel on ground and off ground I can pivot steering arm by hand between inner and outer tierod both sides feels fine not 'notchy' or loose.

Pajman- interested in the 555's I'll do sum googling.

Nj swb- yes they touch stops, it happens more with ruts n stuff in reasonably straight lines I try not to go full lock unless absolutely necessary its always in first low and never drivers side.

I haven't had this set up long enough to thrash it nor needed to with tyres this big. Just seems like a really week point. Cvs were binding and breaking with upper bump stops removed. But with those back in haven't had any break since. I did note that car had bent tierod when I bought it stocker than rock. So there may be an underlying issue I'm missing. I also replaced upper bushes when new suspension went in. Any more advice greatly appreciated

[stumagoo]

depending on the spacer size sounds similar to the last chap here who broke his tierod (was a 555 one) he did his going up a big rock step, as I said full drop out - his just ended up letting go as it came down on the wheel. then when he went up in the ait again his CV popped to pieces. there is a vid of it out on fb even.... he has 3" suspension 2" body (again no effect on geometry) and a 25mm spacer -22 rims - with lakesea muddies. big 33's - he did run bighorn 35's but these measure almost the same OD