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L\H rear driveshaft and hub stuffed

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  • Brissyguy
    Member
    • Apr 2012
    • 200
    • Brisbane

    #16
    Nice to hear some good will better than none
    Mazda BT 50, dual cab, silver, 60 ltr fridge freezr, UHF , bullbar, sports bar

    More to come as can afford it

    Retired the old NS

    Comment

    • DaveE66
      Valued Member
      • Oct 2010
      • 560
      • Mannum SA

      #17
      Yeah you are right brissyguy, i could have gone for the second hand option which was only 300 less than the offer from mitsi. Big expense but cant afford to get stuck while out bush.
      NS DiD VRX, ARB Steel Bar, Roo Lites, Safari Snorkel, GME UHF, 2" Lift, Poly Airs, Dual Batteries, Cooper Tyres, Ecu remap, 3inch exhaust, Imax 12000lb Winch,

      Comment

      • shawty950
        Member
        • Jun 2011
        • 218
        • Brisbane

        #18
        Same here(loose nut)...but NT April 2011 build - 80,000k's

        Thanks to this and other threads I went and bought the 36mm socket and checked both rears after a progressively noisier clunk appearing 20,000k ago...manual says 185 ft/lbs +/- 21 ft/lbs (IIRC)

        Right Rear - approx 16" breaker bar, standing on it ( I am 75kgs ), and bouncing up and down, tightened a 1/16 of a turn.

        Left rear - put breaker bar on to undo( and reseat shaft in splines) and the weight of just the breaker undid the nut... WTF

        So anyways I move the shaft inboard/outboard to reseat splines and then tighten by the aforementioned jumping (bouncing) on the breaker and get it to approximately the same tension as the right rear.

        Driveline clunk on/off thottle in selected gear is gone.

        Will mention at next service in case there is damage as mentioned by OP.

        This should really be something that all gen 4 owners should be checking.

        My mate and his father also have an NW and NT respectively, and will be something that will get checked next time they are over for a coldie.

        Shawty

        PS. Is there a thread/sticky somehwere that can have model or build specific things that should be checked...ie in this case a thread for all gen 4 owners to check the following:-
        Left rear half shaft nut

        Gen 4-2 owners - check for rust rear passenger doors
        Gen 4-1 etc...etc
        ?
        Last edited by shawty950; 27-05-14, 01:20 PM.
        SOLD at 150k's - 2011 NT Platinum Diesel auto. Wheels and tyres, cav filter, caddy storage/ausguard barrier and icom IC-440N. NoLimit Tuning Chip. T13 Bullbar. Other stuff when money allows.

        NOW - 2016 MQ Triton Exceed - All the TJM fruit re barwork, MCA Gold shocks and Parabolic rear leafs, TJM canopy, twin diff locks OEM rear and Harrop front, breathers, rhinorack, eco foxwing

        Comment

        • grhyso
          Valued Member
          • Aug 2012
          • 2074
          • Perth

          #19
          Originally posted by shawty950 View Post
          Thanks to this and other threads I went and bought the 36mm socket and checked both rears after a progressively noisier clunk appearing 20,000k ago...manual says 185 ft/lbs +/- 21 ft/lbs (IIRC)

          Right Rear - approx 16" breaker bar, standing on it ( I am 75kgs ), and bouncing up and down, tightened a 1/16 of a turn.

          Left rear - put breaker bar on to undo( and reseat shaft in splines) and the weight of just the breaker undid the nut... WTF

          So anyways I move the shaft inboard/outboard to reseat splines and then tighten by the aforementioned jumping (bouncing) on the breaker and get it to approximately the same tension as the right rear.

          Driveline clunk on/off thottle in selected gear is gone.

          Will mention at next service in case there is damage as mentioned by OP.

          This should really be something that all gen 4 owners should be checking.

          My mate and his father also have an NW and NT respectively, and will be something that will get checked next time they are over for a coldie.

          Shawty

          PS. Is there a thread/sticky somehwere that can have model or build specific things that should be checked...ie in this case a thread for all gen 4 owners to check the following:-
          Left rear half shaft nut

          Gen 4-2 owners - check for rust rear passenger doors
          Gen 4-1 etc...etc
          ?
          I'll be checking mine this weekend I think, get a clunk sometimes and thought it was just normal. 2010 NT.
          2010 NT GLS DiD Auto Silver | TJM T13 Bullbar | Lightforce LED 180 Spotlights | Runva 11XP | Dual Batteries | TJM snorkel | Bushskinz & TJM bash plates | Custom alloy roof rack | Sunseeker II Awning | MDC RTT | EGR Block | Bilstein/Lovells | Dick Cepek Fun Country tyres | Wet seat seatcovers | Uniden UH7760NB | Parrot Asteroid Smart | Morel, Soundstream and Kicker Audio | MM Cargo Barrier | Storage Drawer | Onboard water system |

          See our latest adventures at http://www.treksandtinroofs.com

          Comment

          • RaRe
            Member
            • May 2014
            • 58
            • Perth

            #20
            I also have a knocking sound when backing off the accelerator, Only seems to happen in when taking off the mark and backing off the power quickly. Took it to my local mechanic, they tell me they think its backlash in the rear Diff, and to fix it i will need a rebuild.

            I'm not happy with that diagnoses, so i will be taking it over to WA Diff center, hopefully the specialists in Diffs will be able to give me a definitive answer on this issue.

            Keep you posted.

            Comment

            • pasniny
              Valued Member
              • Jul 2009
              • 1081
              • ...

              #21
              Originally posted by RaRe View Post
              I also have a knocking sound when backing off the accelerator, Only seems to happen in when taking off the mark and backing off the power quickly. Took it to my local mechanic, they tell me they think its backlash in the rear Diff, and to fix it i will need a rebuild.

              I'm not happy with that diagnoses, so i will be taking it over to WA Diff center, hopefully the specialists in Diffs will be able to give me a definitive answer on this issue.

              Keep you posted.
              try and tighten the hub bolt you will be supprised

              Comment

              • Axis
                Valued Member
                • Jul 2011
                • 977
                • Highett Vic

                #22
                Been meaning to do this for ages. Previously tried, couldn't get the DS hub nut to budge, couldn't get the PS cover/cap off to get at the wheel nut

                After reading this thread with more people doing it I thought I'd give it another shot - as usual decided to start as it was getting dark - in the driveway.

                Drivers side - couldn't budge nut. Ended up resting the socket extension on a car stand so I could stand on the bar and bounce up and down on it. Did the trick and loosened the nut. Saw a pic of this on the forum and hadn't thought of it . With the nut loose I could move the shaft in and out a bit. Retorqued by jumping on the bar again and all good.

                Passenger Side - Hub cover came off with aid of a chisel and hammer. The split pin cover on the nut was a pain as it had moved (clearly nut was loose) and jammed the split pin in. Got the socket on the nut and it came loose with not a lot of pressure (no standing on it). With the nut loose there was no movement in the shaft so not sure if I need to look further into that. Retorqued and replaced everything.

                No more clunk on take off! over a 15 minute drive lots of stopping and starting.

                07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates

                Comment

                • Axis
                  Valued Member
                  • Jul 2011
                  • 977
                  • Highett Vic

                  #23
                  Also, had a mechanic telling me is was chassis mounts or something causing the clunk.

                  As per Pasniny - check this before shelling out for any other work if you have the clunk!
                  07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates

                  Comment

                  • Kumabear
                    Valued Member
                    • Sep 2013
                    • 696
                    • Sydney, Macarther Region

                    #24
                    Hmmm I get a very similar sound occurring on my NW... It seems to mostly happen in car parks when I'm lightly coming on and off the throttle.

                    Also seems to thunk louder than I would expect when I put it in drive.

                    Is it just the outer hub bolt behind the dust cover thing that you are talking about, I have not touched the hub on a gen 4 but did rebuild a mates hubs on his 1999 NL.
                    2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

                    Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

                    Wishlist:

                    Comment

                    • Axis
                      Valued Member
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 977
                      • Highett Vic

                      #25
                      Originally posted by Kumabear View Post
                      Hmmm I get a very similar sound occurring on my NW... It seems to mostly happen in car parks when I'm lightly coming on and off the throttle.

                      Also seems to thunk louder than I would expect when I put it in drive.

                      Is it just the outer hub bolt behind the dust cover thing that you are talking about, I have not touched the hub on a gen 4 but did rebuild a mates hubs on his 1999 NL.
                      Yes that's the one. The manual says tighten to 220nm. I checked both rears but it is the passenger side that has the issue. Mine could be loosened easily with a socket.

                      Let us know how yours goes...
                      07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates

                      Comment

                      • justcruizin
                        Valued Member
                        • Jun 2008
                        • 499
                        • Brisbane

                        #26
                        Axis, what size socket is it? Will check mine when I do next service. Imagine it will be large so will have to go buy it most likely.
                        08 NS 25th Anniversary Limited Edition DID Auto, MM TBar, TJM T13 Bar, Airtec Snorkel, Redarc Dual battery, ORU 12000lb rope winch, Bushskinz Full Bash Plate set, Uniden UHF, Narva 175 spots, HD(F) & SD(R) Lovells, Bilsteins, Dynapro ATs, Diff and trans breathers, Poly Airs, Ridge Rider Awning, Eagle Camper Trailer, Engel 40 lt, Waeco CF110

                        Comment

                        • Axis
                          Valued Member
                          • Jul 2011
                          • 977
                          • Highett Vic

                          #27
                          Originally posted by justcruizin View Post
                          Axis, what size socket is it? Will check mine when I do next service. Imagine it will be large so will have to go buy it most likely.
                          Hi Justcruizin,

                          It's a 36mm socket - got mine from Autobarn.

                          Cheers,
                          James
                          07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates

                          Comment

                          • justcruizin
                            Valued Member
                            • Jun 2008
                            • 499
                            • Brisbane

                            #28
                            Cheers James.
                            08 NS 25th Anniversary Limited Edition DID Auto, MM TBar, TJM T13 Bar, Airtec Snorkel, Redarc Dual battery, ORU 12000lb rope winch, Bushskinz Full Bash Plate set, Uniden UHF, Narva 175 spots, HD(F) & SD(R) Lovells, Bilsteins, Dynapro ATs, Diff and trans breathers, Poly Airs, Ridge Rider Awning, Eagle Camper Trailer, Engel 40 lt, Waeco CF110

                            Comment

                            • Kumabear
                              Valued Member
                              • Sep 2013
                              • 696
                              • Sydney, Macarther Region

                              #29
                              I don't personally have access to a torque wrench, my mate has one at his place but I'm not entirely sure its big enough.

                              Is there a big danger in over tightening the bolt or should i just have a go with my breaker bar and make sure they are tight for now.

                              I also get a clunk every now and then during a gear shift if the shift occurs on light/trailing throttle at low speed.
                              2011 MY12 NW Pajero GL (White)

                              Factory Rear Diff lock | Modded Traction Control | Hankook RT03 MT LT265/70/17 | Uniden 7760nb UHF | Opposite Lock 3 Loop steel bar with fog lights |Runva EXW12000 | Bushskinz plates and sliders |Ultimate Suspension true 50mm Lift (above factory trim)

                              Wishlist:

                              Comment

                              • Axis
                                Valued Member
                                • Jul 2011
                                • 977
                                • Highett Vic

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Kumabear View Post
                                I don't personally have access to a torque wrench, my mate has one at his place but I'm not entirely sure its big enough.

                                Is there a big danger in over tightening the bolt or should i just have a go with my breaker bar and make sure they are tight for now.

                                I also get a clunk every now and then during a gear shift if the shift occurs on light/trailing throttle at low speed.
                                My torque wrench goes to 210nm. I think manual says 220 +/-10. I had to stand on it and bounce to get it to that and put a bit extra on. Not sure if about overtightening...

                                It was really obvious the passenger side was loose. I'd say check it and tighten as much as possible by hand and then some.... If it's affected will be a lot better than it was..
                                07 NS DiD GLX Manual, Alloy Bullbar, 2" lift, Bilstein shocks, King Springs, Kumho MT51, Oricom UHF088, Prodigy P2 Brake Controller, Airtec Snorkel, Bushskinz Intercooler Guard, Boo's Sump and Tansmission Bash Plates

                                Comment

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