DPF issue or possibly not. Help Required

[NSGaz]

Hi All,

I've been searching the threads and spending hours reading through all those I think might be related that I could find. To say I'm pessimistic about getting a resolution quickly is now an understatement.

My car is a 2008 NS Auto DID with just under 300,000km on the clock. Resister mod on EGR.

On Saturday I drove the car around with out issue including some long freeway runs. Then on Sunday whilst pulling a light trailer I noticed a lack of power that progressively got worse, No fault codes other than the swirl control valve one I just live with now as I'm not sure how to bypass. Interestingly I could hear a cyclic noise which sounded a bit like surging but not felt. Possibly an exhaust or inlet manifold leak. Fuel level was low.

First I thought that it felt like my torque converter was slipping as the motor would rev out before changing gears and not a lot of acceleration. That afternoon I put on a diagnostic tester (ICarsoft CR PRO) and only got the swirl control valve fault.

Yesterday I fueled up and drove around a bit. It seemed a little better, but the sluggish acceleration returned and then on the way home the DPF light came on.

So this morning I changed the fuel filter, checked the MAF sensor tube and poked a bit of wire down the nipple. (have replaced this sensor previously) and set off to do a burn. The car was actually driving ok but noticeably down on power. Then whilst accelerating I noticed a plume of black smoke come out the exhaust and the car when into what felt like limp mode shortly after (no lights besides the DPF light now flashing). I could also hear what appeared to the be a loud leak coming from the exhaust manifold, possibly near the CAT but I couldn't see it or feel it. To be honest could be anywhere.

I checked for codes and the DPF overload was present. So I reset and the DPF light went back to solid and I tried driving off but the engine noise / leak was loud. I had no power and the car felt to be in limp mode. Finally the ASC lights came on and I knew I was in limp mode then. I crawled for a while then tried resetting the codes again. The ASC lights went off but the DPF light remained flashing and in limp mode.

When home I got the Mrs to rev the car as I laid underneath looking for any exhaust leaks or tell tail signs. The noise is loud with revs and really sound like a leak. Occasionally I get a puff of black smoke coming from the manifold area but cant see the leak. My mind is suspecting I might have killed my CAT or Turbo and because of that the Regen is failing so perhaps not a DPF issue.

I'm reluctant to try a forced regen with my diagnostic tool (although I'm led to believe it can do it) as I'm concerned of doing more damage or should I try this?

I know all this is a bit vague but I guess I'm asking here to see if anyone has experienced any of this? How do I know my CAT has failed or DPF? Can they block up to the extent that causes excessive pressure and then a leaking manifold?

If not, can anyone recommend a good Mitsubishi dealer in Perth that actually knows how to diagnose issues? Preferably north of the river.

I've just lost my job this week and need this like a hole in the head so hoping I can fix myself.

Thanks

Garry

[Azzx]

The black smoke you're talking about could be caused by a leak in intercooler rubber pipes, have you checked them if they are not split or anything?

[NSGaz]

The black smoke you're talking about could be caused by a leak in intercooler rubber pipes, have you checked them if they are not split or anything?

Thanks Azzx will have a good look today.

[NSGaz]

The black smoke you're talking about could be caused by a leak in intercooler rubber pipes, have you checked them if they are not split or anything?

Todays update.

I had a better look today. Intercooler pipes all look good.

I found the source of the noise. A severe leak on the exhaust pipe at the semi flexible flange joint between the CAT and the main pipe after the turbo.

I tried tightening the bolts to no avail as it was still leaking so suspect the seal ring has gone (hopefully not down the exhaust into the CAT!). In the course of tightening and loosening the bolts on the exhaust flange I'm managed to strip the thread on the flange. One of the bolts is just spinning and not coming out.

I intend to get a new seal ring and a longer bolt. Will cut out (hopefully not have to drill out) the stuck bolt and replace with a straight through bolt and retain the spring. Hopefully this still works and allows enough flexibility at the joint. Open to ideas if this is not a good solution? I'm trying to avoid taking out the cat and welding in a new nut.

Whilst under I found my knock I had in the front end. The nut had come off the stabiliser bar linkage. So the passenger side of the stabiliser bar wasn't connected. Easily fixed but not the torn steering box dust bellows That has been ripped in two from excessive articulation now. No idea how hard that will be to fix. Anyone replaced one? Can you get a split version that you can cable tie in place like the emergency cv joint covers I know are available?

Hoping to fix the exhaust leak tomorrow and will then try to reset the DPF fault code and then give it a run to see if it will now do a burn. Hopefully it was the exhaust leak that was causing it. Just didn't expect such a leak would cause the power issues, but I guess that the CAT and DPF weren't seeing the normal pressures or temps as a result and thus spitting the dummy.

If the burn doesn't happen or I'm still stuck in the limp home mode, then I might have to try a forced regen with my diagnostic tool. Haven't done one before, so that will be a learning experience.... (no doubt more questions to come!

[NSGaz]

Todays update.

I had a better look today. Intercooler pipes all look good.

I found the source of the noise. A severe leak on the exhaust pipe at the semi flexible flange joint between the CAT and the main pipe after the turbo.

I tried tightening the bolts to no avail as it was still leaking so suspect the seal ring has gone (hopefully not down the exhaust into the CAT!). In the course of tightening and loosening the bolts on the exhaust flange I'm managed to strip the thread on the flange. One of the bolts is just spinning and not coming out.

I intend to get a new seal ring and a longer bolt. Will cut out (hopefully not have to drill out) the stuck bolt and replace with a straight through bolt and retain the spring. Hopefully this still works and allows enough flexibility at the joint. Open to ideas if this is not a good solution? I'm trying to avoid taking out the cat and welding in a new nut.

Whilst under I found my knock I had in the front end. The nut had come off the stabiliser bar linkage. So the passenger side of the stabiliser bar wasn't connected. Easily fixed but not the torn steering box dust bellows That has been ripped in two from excessive articulation now. No idea how hard that will be to fix. Anyone replaced one? Can you get a split version that you can cable tie in place like the emergency cv joint covers I know are available?

Hoping to fix the exhaust leak tomorrow and will then try to reset the DPF fault code and then give it a run to see if it will now do a burn. Hopefully it was the exhaust leak that was causing it. Just didn't expect such a leak would cause the power issues, but I guess that the CAT and DPF weren't seeing the normal pressures or temps as a result and thus spitting the dummy.

If the burn doesn't happen or I'm still stuck in the limp home mode, then I might have to try a forced regen with my diagnostic tool. Haven't done one before, so that will be a learning experience.... (no doubt more questions to come!

Cut out the stuck bolt and the seal ring fell out. Didn't look too bad but thought I would try to get a replacement, thinking it would be an easy to get item.... apparently not... Would need to wait a week as it has to be ordered in (Perth).

So going to try using some manifold cement and the old ring to see if that works. If not then I'll have to order the new seal ring ($62) and try again. Fingers crossed.

[erad]

I suggest that you wrap some wire into the joint and then push the muffler putty into the ie the wire is to reinforce the putty.

[Herman4x4]

Gday NSGaz,
Just wondering what scan tool you have?
Cheers,
Andrew

Sent from my CPH1611 using Tapatalk

[NSGaz]

Gday NSGaz,
Just wondering what scan tool you have?
Cheers,
Andrew

Sent from my CPH1611 using Tapatalk

Icarsoft CR Pro

[NSGaz]

At a loss now

Ok Things seem to have gone from bad to worse

I managed to get the exhaust to seal via the use of lots of pressure on the bolts and manifold puttly.

Started the car up and it sounded a fair bit better. It revved fine in the driveway. Went for a short drive around the block and it was very evident it was still in limp mode (no lights other than the CEL (from swirl valve) and the DPF light flashing. I was struggling to get home. Absolutely no power and struggling to get over 1500 rpm.

Decided to try the DPF Regen on my scan tool (Icarsoft CR Pro). Said I needed to get the coolant temp up to 80c and it would take 25 min. Thought I would drive to a secluded spot as it was getting late so not to bother anyone as I wasn't sure if it does it in situ or you had to drive...

Big mistake. Almost got stranded. Car wont go over 1000 rpm. sounds like crap and is billowing lots of smoke. Even stalled on me a couple of times whilst trying to limp home a less than walking pace. Thought I was going to get stuck in the middle of the road.

Have no idea whats going on now and I'm thinking its terminal Not a great feeling the week you lose your job.

When home I decided to just try to force regen, followed the instructions then it got to the data stream, then nothing. Just sat there. I paged through everything and it said DPF regen off etc. I didn't know if I was meant to start or not. After a while I did and tried to rev it, but couldn't get over 1000rpm so aborted the regen (not that it was doing anything).

Is it possible for the CAT or DPF to block so much they cant let any air through?

I was hoping once I fixed the exhaust I would be able to do a forced regen, change the oil and be on my way.

Im at a loss now, so any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.

[Two Emms]

Hi Garry,

I know very little about DPFs but I might offer some thoughts .

In your last post you said it revved ok in the driveway. This suggests that the exhaust components are not blocked. If this revving was not very high then of course this doesn't apply.

Simplistic (and cheap) diagnosis might be to disconnect the exhaust completely and start the motor. Yes it will be louder than usual but if it revs freely, reconnect it all, low revs would indicate a blocked cat or DPF.

Maybe before starting the motor after disconnecting the exhaust, disconnect the battery for a few minutes. Upon starting the motor, the ECU might run a scan of all sensors and allow the motor to rev. Won't clear stored codes of course.

Sorry mate, it's not a lot but might help.

[erad]

You may still have an obstruction in the exhaust (a bit unlikely, but possible). You could have a flap of corroded material in the muffler which gets moved to a position where it blocks the gas flow and then when the engine stops, the flap falls back away, allowing normal operation until th whole cycle repeats later on.

[Herman4x4]

Icarsoft CR Pro

Thane for this. I hope you get it sorted.
Cheers,
Andrew

Sent from my CPH1611 using Tapatalk

[NSGaz]

Update

A frustrating day grinding and cutting off rusted bolts to check the exhaust for blockages.

Started the day off trying to move the car to the driveway, but it wouldn't run. Kept stalling on idle.

Initially thought it was the CAT that was blocked so removed it (after cutting and grinding the existing rusted nuts on the rear flange to the DPF) and the motor was now able to rev freely. Got a hose into the CAT and whilst some crap came out it didn't seem that dirty. The honeycomb actually looked pretty clean. No burnt areas or heavy deposits. The water also flowed freely through which indicated no real blockage. Started to regret going to the trouble to take it out now.
Reinstalled the CAT temporarily but left the connection between the DPF and CAT open. Motor revved freely.

Next culprit was the dreaded DPF. More swearing to cut and grind off the bolts on the rear connection to the muffler to open that end. Then to make sure it wasn't a blockage further down I connected the DPF to the CAT again. Turned the key and no more free revving. Back to under 1000rpm foot flat to the floor.

Pulled the DPF out totally (fun times) and connected the hose to it again. Crap came out everywhere. No matter what I did water would not flow through it, instead just coming out the pressure sensor tubes. So I'm figuring I have a stuffed (pun intended) DPF

So now my intention is to source a secondhand genuine DPF and install that. A local wrecker has one. Hopefully this will allow me to regen (even better if it decides it doesn't need it - although from what I've read on here it will still need to do a forced regen to clear the codes). Then change the oil and filter and hopefully be trouble free until I sell or install a delete pipe.

[Old pops]

Don’t know if it helps but used to have a van the cat was knackered it drove ok for a few miles then lost power and bellowed smoke then wouldn’t start I disconnected the cat drove down the road with no cat on and gap in exhaust worked fine so replaced cat with a different car cat and just welded it in all worked fine from then on in but there was no dpf on the van and not so many sensors don’t know if that helps

[erad]

Sounds as if it is the DPF all cagged up. Can you try soaking some solvent or a few days and then trying to wash it out? A replacement DPF will not be chap.