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Pajero Sport QE 2015 - 2019 The Pajero Sport new to Oz

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  #51  
Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Seems like a good result but the rear coils will settle about 5mm to 10mm from where they are when first fitted.
You should notice the difference even more when driving both hitched and unhitched, there should be less wallowing and pitching of the rear suspension.

Once the WDH is fitted and setup correctly, only to return the front ride height measurements back to the pre-hitched measurements then the whole setup should tow and ride much better.

Hopefully this is good enough and you do not need to go down the airbag route.

OJ.
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  #52  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
josmond josmond is offline
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So I hooked up the WDH today, just did a quick test and didn't dial it in precisely, but rough measurements (also car was on a bit of a sideways angle, need to do again on fully flat):

Front wheel:
No Van: 515
Van (no WDH): 525
Van (WDH): 520

Back wheel:
No Van: 600
Van (no WDH): 560
Van (WDH): 565

So reduce the front lift from 10mm to 5mm.
My socket wrench didn't fit in the provided socket for tightening the chains, so that was just by hand tightening, I'll go to Bunnings and get a proper socket for it which should hopefully allow me to tight properly and bring the front back down the extra 5mm.

What's the recommendation with the Anderson WDH for reversing, tight maneuvering, or rough roads etc?
To get to my parking spot on the drive way, i do have a bit where the car and van are at quiet different angles going up a slope to the levelish ground at the top. Hoping that I don't need to disconnect to get up over that.
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  #53  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josmond View Post
So I hooked up the WDH today, just did a quick test and didn't dial it in precisely, but rough measurements (also car was on a bit of a sideways angle, need to do again on fully flat):

Front wheel:
No Van: 515
Van (no WDH): 525
Van (WDH): 520

Back wheel:
No Van: 600
Van (no WDH): 560
Van (WDH): 565

So reduce the front lift from 10mm to 5mm.
My socket wrench didn't fit in the provided socket for tightening the chains, so that was just by hand tightening, I'll go to Bunnings and get a proper socket for it which should hopefully allow me to tight properly and bring the front back down the extra 5mm.

What's the recommendation with the Anderson WDH for reversing, tight maneuvering, or rough roads etc?
To get to my parking spot on the drive way, i do have a bit where the car and van are at quiet different angles going up a slope to the levelish ground at the top. Hoping that I don't need to disconnect to get up over that.



What are the actual weights of your van from the weighbridge? Tare when empty and fully loaded.
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  #54  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josmond View Post
So I hooked up the WDH today, just did a quick test and didn't dial it in precisely, but rough measurements (also car was on a bit of a sideways angle, need to do again on fully flat):

Front wheel:
No Van: 515
Van (no WDH): 525
Van (WDH): 520

Back wheel:
No Van: 600
Van (no WDH): 560
Van (WDH): 565

So reduce the front lift from 10mm to 5mm.
My socket wrench didn't fit in the provided socket for tightening the chains, so that was just by hand tightening, I'll go to Bunnings and get a proper socket for it which should hopefully allow me to tight properly and bring the front back down the extra 5mm.

What's the recommendation with the Anderson WDH for reversing, tight maneuvering, or rough roads etc?
To get to my parking spot on the drive way, i do have a bit where the car and van are at quiet different angles going up a slope to the levelish ground at the top. Hoping that I don't need to disconnect to get up over that.
This is all progressing Josh

Once you have the Anderson hitch set up correctly it will be interesting to hear how your towing experience has changed.

No need to disconnect the Anderson WDH when reversing or when going through drains, as long as the trailer movement is within the articulation range of the 50mm ball. This is one of the major benefits of using an Anderson WDH.
https://andersenhitches.com/Catalog/...ion-hitch.aspx

OJ.
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  #55  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
orthodoxs orthodoxs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josmond View Post
S
My socket wrench didn't fit in the provided socket for tightening the chains, so that was just by hand tightening, I'll go to Bunnings and get a proper socket for it which should hopefully allow me to tight properly and bring the front back down the extra 5mm.

What's the recommendation with the Anderson WDH for reversing, tight maneuvering, or rough roads etc?
To get to my parking spot on the drive way, i do have a bit where the car and van are at quiet different angles going up a slope to the levelish ground at the top. Hoping that I don't need to disconnect to get up over that.
Like OJ said, you dont have to remove for reversing or inclines. I haven't used one but, after assembling it, lifting the A frame with the jockey and then tigtening the chains may be the right way to go, instead of cranking it with full load on the chains. once levelled users detach the triangular plate each time they need to decouple leaving the chains and triangular plate attached to the frame. You must be aware of this by now as there are many videos on U tube.
How much did you get it for and where from? pls share your opinions as i may need to change mine from the HR type tension bars and chain as i had to move the A frame chain attachment clamps more towards the caravan ( now the chains are not Vertical and become excessively tight when turning.)
P.S: If you detach the plate while the tow is at an angle to the caravan after parking, it may need a small trick to get it back on or you will have to reverse the tow back in the same angle.
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  #56  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
josmond josmond is offline
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Hi All,

So we are a few days in to our school holiday trip and done 2 long drives with the van and it towed nice and smoothly. Towed it on highway and winding roads, and there was no sway and it felt balanced.

The WDH is easy to use, just as mentioned need to make sure it is aligned the same or use the trick of only adding 1 sided to straighten. I use the lifting of the towball method and its easy to hitch and unhitch that way.

Thank you all for helping and making me feel more confident and safer on the roads.
Time to start planning what the new tow vehicle will be!
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  #57  
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Hi Josh,

Glad you are happy with the results of the suspension upgrade and WDH.

OJ.
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2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .
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  #58  
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Here are a few tips in getting the weight down....


https://rvdaily.com.au/how-to-reduce...+-+30+Sep+2020




Some good ideas...
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  #59  
Old 3 Weeks Ago
Ian H Ian H is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by josmond View Post
Thank you all for helping and making me feel more confident and safer on the roads.
Time to start planning what the new tow vehicle will be!
I reckon you are to be congratulated on going through the process and not burying your head in the sand like so many do.
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  #60  
Old 2 Weeks Ago
orthodoxs orthodoxs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko1 View Post
Here are a few tips in getting the weight down....


https://rvdaily.com.au/how-to-reduce...+-+30+Sep+2020




Some good ideas...
To note: the lead batteries are first on the hit list. I think all ends well for the OP and if the set up cruises well AND it is legal, it may be redundant to change the tow rig, might as well fill up the water tanks and add a solenoid controlled dump valve for the water if pulled over. jus kiddin of course.
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