Auto V Manual Glow Plugs

[Jim Hannah]

I was pleased when I got a quote from Repco for NGK Glow plugs for the Padger today...until the guy said..."woah...they're different ones listed for the Auto, and they're seventy bucks each".


Seems strange to me that they are different on an Automatic Vehicle to those on a Manual vehicle...anyone know if this is correct information?


I was thinking of buying them online, but apparently there are so many fake ones out there that it's a risk (particularly NGK and Bosch). If one failed and fell into the cylinder...that would be a costly mistake.


I'm getting lumpy running after startup and until the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature. I understand that on these did common rails, the glow plugs continue to operate, controlled by the ECM, until normal operating temperature is reached, so I have concluded that the Glow plugs are a likely culprit (or the relay, which I will also check). 173k now, so I think that's a reasonable life expectation for a humble glowie?



Any thoughts or experiences shared would be welcome. I also checked with the main dealer, who want $75.50 each for the glowies, which is surprisingly reasonable if Repco are $70.00.


Jim

[Seigried]

I was pleased when I got a quote from Repco for NGK Glow plugs for the Padger today...until the guy said..."woah...they're different ones listed for the Auto, and they're seventy bucks each".


Seems strange to me that they are different on an Automatic Vehicle to those on a Manual vehicle...anyone know if this is correct information?


I was thinking of buying them online, but apparently there are so many fake ones out there that it's a risk (particularly NGK and Bosch). If one failed and fell into the cylinder...that would be a costly mistake.


I'm getting lumpy running after startup and until the vehicle reaches normal operating temperature. I understand that on these did common rails, the glow plugs continue to operate, controlled by the ECM, until normal operating temperature is reached, so I have concluded that the Glow plugs are a likely culprit (or the relay, which I will also check). 173k now, so I think that's a reasonable life expectation for a humble glowie?



Any thoughts or experiences shared would be welcome. I also checked with the main dealer, who want $75.50 each for the glowies, which is surprisingly reasonable if Repco are $70.00.


Jim

NGK lists part number manual 3.2 = Y1007J Manual
auto 3.2 = CZ251 Auto, Ceramic

[scribble88]

Going through process of buying glow plugs myself. I don't know your vin number, or what year you Pajero is; did a search 2006 to 2009. No difference in price between manual and automatic on Amayama and Partsouq, Mitsubishi part number 1820A009.

This is amayama:

https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/1820a009

Check out non genuine part price.

Never changed glow plugs, don't have any experience. I got a bit scared when I did google search, oem vs aftermarket glow plugs; people having MAJOR issues with some aftermarket glow plugs doing damage to engine. I am going to stick with Mitsubishi OEM glow plugs, there has to be a reason why the OEM ones are so much more expensive.

This is Partsouq:

https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=1820A009

Type in your vin number into the amayama or Partsouq search bar to ensure I have given you the correct part number.

This is what I get typing in my vin number ( I have 2010 Pajero 3.2l diesel activ though, generation 4.2 )

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Mitsubishi&ssd=%24HQwXW1d0BwMKBA9aV01MRVFdW1d0B1tVSwVNa3VgRnpSCgQ4QmRcYBM%24&vid=10027&gid=10252&q=JMFLNV98WAJ000448

[BruceandBobbi]

The NS auto takes NGK CZ251 Ceramic. Replaced ours 12 months ago.Paid $242 for the 4 at suoercheap. They priced matched an Ebay seller in Sydney.

Still have one brand new in the box as one snapped off. Starts fine on 3.

The cost of removing the snapped one is $600.

[Jim Hannah]

Thanks guys. A bit of information for those who might appreciate it...I've been doing some research...


The glow plugs on Auto or Manual cars are different, though I don't know why. The Automatic vehicles use ceramic glow plugs, which are more expensive. The main dealer trade price is not, at $75.50, unreasonable, IMHO.


The glow plug relay is actually under the battery tray on the NS models, and possibly later ones too and you have to remove the battery tray to get access to it. I've tested my relay, and I can't get accurate reliable readings from it on either of my multi-meters, so I intend to replace it as a matter of course.



The glow plugs themselves hide behind the inlet manifold, and are swearword inducing little items of uncertain parentage to access. The risk of breaking one or more is too high for me, and I intend to leave them well alone until I remove my inlet manifold for cleaning and do the valve clearances etc. later this year. We live in central queensland, so it never drops below 8 or 10 deg, and the car starts anyway. I hope that the replacement relay will solve the problem anyway, though when I've got the inlet manifold out of the way later on, I'll probably take the glowies out and check them manually, if not replace them, since we're now at 173k.



Now, here's an important bit of info. it seems not too many people, and some mechanics, are not aware of. The glowies on these, and most other modern direct injection common rail engines, do not just work prior to start up. They continue to operate, controlled by the ECM until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Hence my conclusion that the rough running for the first few k's is probably a glow plug issue. A lot of things I've seen written on various forums, suggests that the glowies only work prior to start up, and that took me off the scent of the problem, until I read the Haynes manual, and got other information elsewhere, which told me that the glowies continue to work when the engine is running. This is apparently to help reduce emissions when the engine is cold, and that makes some sense to me.



So there, I will report back when I've replaced the relay.


J

[erad]

My Max Elery manual (not that this is 100% reliable) states to turn the ignition switch ON and after 8 seconds the voltage will drop to zero. Also check that the glow plug lamp illuminates. That pretty well agrees with my observations of battery voltage.

Further down the page it tells me to start the engine and check the voltage (12-15 V). There is a note If the engine coolant temperature reaches 60 Deg C or 180 seconds has passed the voltage reading will return to zero. SI I guess that the glow plugs continue to run for 3 minutes or until the temperature has reached 60 Deg C (that is not likely to happen where I live).

I think this is referring to the NM/NP models (not common rail), but I expect that it would also apply to the later CRD models.

[old Jack]

From the factory service manual, Pajero 2007 to 2013;

The self-regulating glow system enables the vehicle to start ideally at low temperature by preheating the glow plug at super speed. When the ignition switch is turned to the ON position, the engine-ECU supplies electric currents and controls the glow lamp illumination in accordance with the engine coolant temperature. The control resistance wire built in the glow plug has a higher resistance as the glow plug temperature becomes higher. Because of this, the currents in the heater wire gradually decrease. The glow plug is stabilized at the specified temperature. After the engine start at low temperature, the current going to the glow plug is controlled to perform the stable combustion.

OJ.