Gearbox removal help.

[knigit]

Hi all. Been lurking for a while. What an awesome forum.



Car is nk 3.0l lwb.



So I'm attempting to remove the gearbox for clutch and spigot bearing replacement.

I've got the exhaust, starter motor and prop shafts off but things get a bit scarier from here.



So for taking off the gear levers, do you mean take off the machined brass bits, or unbolt and pull out the whole lot from the top of the gearbox. It would certainly give me more room but I just have no idea if that's opening a can of worms.



So for once i thought i'd do the smart thing and ask first .



Also how much slack is there in the wiring and air lines around the top of the box. I really can't see enough to start disconnecting things without dropping it at least a bit.



One thread suggested removing the left torsion bar. Haven't done one of those either, does it really need to come off.



Thank you so much, I'm sure there will be more questions to follow up.

[Kaldek]

Hi mate, I recently replaced the little plastic bucket that goes on the bottom of the shift lever on my NH, so I needed to remove it.

You remove the lever from the top. It wasn't more than a few bolts required to get it out, maybe 8 or 10 in total? All accessible from the top inside the cabin. I would suspect it's the same for the 4WD shifter.

[knigit]

Thank you, I just wasn't sure what sort of connection the shifters made inside the gearbox. Realised that one of the boots was torn so they had to come off anyway.


Took the plunge and pulled em out. Oh so nearly dropped a spring washer into the gearbox!!

[knigit]

If there is anybody else out there that's pulled the gearbox before I'm still trying to figure exactly what wiring and airlines I need to disconnect.


Seems that if I disconnect the large clip in the cabin and pull that and the grommet through to the underside that almost all the wiring would come out with the box.

[brw0513]

I've not removed my gearbox yet. Just researching now.

Maybe the following images will be helpful? Make up your own mind.

I'd be happy to send you the entire .pdf but it is 14MB or so and don't know how to send a file this size over the interwebs

I can't find it now, but there was a thread on this forum where a member had the rear tyres packed up 6" or so off the ground. Apparently that made it easier to remove the gearbox.

[knigit]

Thank you for that. I had only ever dealt with gear linkages before, so lifting those gear levers out without knowing how they attached inside was a bit of a worry.



$30 dollars for the tiny little rubber spring cover, and $50 for the clutch fork boot what a rip off from MM!


Anyway slowly and steadily I managed to get the box out on a trolley jack and a cradle. Was quite a squeeze.



After finding the main harness clip in the cab it all became significantly easier, was really scratching my head on how to undo all those 20 year old electric connectors way up on top of the box.


Only had to disconnect oxygen sensor, earth wire, speedo sensor and one near the flywheel.



I just put a couple of cardboard gaskets over the gear lever holes to keep any dirt out.



Cheers

[brw0513]

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$30 dollars for the tiny little rubber spring cover, and $50 for the clutch fork boot what a rip off from MM!
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Totally agree.

But doing the work yourself may have saved you $1000 in labour. That buys a lot of satisfaction

[disco stu]

I was tempted to try and replace those rubber boots, but figured I would be spending about that much each, so not going to bother

How did you go with the oxygen sensor plug? I unplugged mine with the box in situ and it was the most frustrating thing ever. I think it took me over 1.5hrs of fiddling around to get it unplugged. Couldn't believe it was positioned where it was, considering that changing the oxygen sensor is not the rarest occurrence