Rear spare wheel cover bolts and the thread

[Alexey2357]

Hi,

I went to replace the tyres and I wanted to use one of my best tyres as a spare. so I took off the front driver side wheel as a spare. When I tried to put the bolts back I could not make it as the thread is worn on bolts and in the wheel cover it looks like no thread in there.
I wanted to order new bolts, but it seems that would work 2 times and I will have the problem again as the thread in cover completely broken.
What would you recommend?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J-0kSvLa1glqlR6ckodwSTR7YWsH3Wzh/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KzzeA9gdvEECnLmjHTMa34YDmcuP96UA/view?usp=sharing

[boritz]

Since the threads in the cover are damaged I would go to a bolt supplier and try to source bolts a thread size larger (preferably with the same nut size) and tap matching threads in the cover. Perhaps taper the ends of the new bolts similar to the originals to aid insertion.

It has previously crossed my mind that some folks may be tempted to apply the same torque to the cover retaining bolts as is applied to the wheel lugs because they have the same nut size. That will certainly strip the threads. Not suggesting this was so in your case.

[Alexey2357]

Called Mitsubishi and ordered 2 bolts I believe this is 68982D part number.
$4.50 each. Seems cheap for such big bolts.
I will try to use new bolts. Hope that they would hold it.
If not than would be looking how to weld the whole, drill the whole and make a thread with the tap.
Or may be just weld 2 right bolt to the holder.

[old Jack]

Once you get the new bolts I would be getting the correct size tap and running a tap through the nuts on the carrier. They look metric fine so make sure you have the correct diameter and thread pitch to match the new bolts.

OJ.

[nj swb]

M12 x 1.25 I believe. Count 10 turns and measure.

You could also try to find somebody with the right Helicoil / Recoil kit.

[Alexey2357]

M12 x 1.25 I believe. Count 10 turns and measure.

You could also try to find somebody with the right Helicoil / Recoil kit.

Thanks. You was right.

10 turns slightly less than 13mm, so I believe this is 1.25 and the width slightly less than 13mm. Considering it is photo taken from short distance and the ruler was slightly behind, so it seems M12.

[Alexey2357]

Once you get the new bolts I would be getting the correct size tap and running a tap through the nuts on the carrier. They look metric fine so make sure you have the correct diameter and thread pitch to match the new bolts.

OJ.

Thanks for the advice. But a friend of mine told me that going with the tap in the cover nuts could make things worse. If I miss the original thread in the nut I would make just a whole 12mm and bolt would not hold it. He recommended just to try to screw in the new bolt and do not touch it until I really need it. I tend to believe this would be great strategy for now.

[old Jack]

Thanks for the advice. But a friend of mine told me that going with the tap in the cover nuts could make things worse. If I miss the original thread in the nut I would make just a whole 12mm and bolt would not hold it. He recommended just to try to screw in the new bolt and do not touch it until I really need it. I tend to believe this would be great strategy for now.

If you can not screw the new bolts in using your fingers then the nut threads will need to be cleaned up. If you can run a tap through from the opposite side to the bolt entry side it is more likely to be successful. My thinking is based on the condition of the bolts you have removed, the nut threads are going to be damaged.


OJ.

[tiger99]

Same thing happened to me. Jax tyres used a rattle gun to put on the spare and misthreaded them. They helicoiled the threads and replaced the bolts with genuine. They were apologetic but I won’t be going back there. I’ve now written “no rattle gun” all through the inside of the cover.

[aussieintas]

Heard of this before, normally caused by over zealous tyre fitters over tightening the bolts. Only needs to be nipped up to between 11 to 25nm (as per handbook) as it's only holding the rego plate carrier not the tyre/wheel itself.

Have a look at thread below.

https://www2.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/showthread.php?t=48589

[geopaj]

I had the same problem. The thread is actually just cut into the flat metal that is ‘mushroomed’. I drilled the thread out, ground the metal flat and then welded on a pair of high tensile nuts (so next time hopefully the bolt will strip first)

[nj swb]

I had the same problem. The thread is actually just cut into the flat metal that is ‘mushroomed’. I drilled the thread out, ground the metal flat and then welded on a pair of high tensile nuts (so next time hopefully the bolt will strip first)

Oops. Good point.

I was picturing my bolts going into welded nuts. Kinda forgot mine's not standard.

[Morville]

I have found that those bolts cross thread very easily. They take a bit of patience to ensure they are starting in easily before tightening with a tool. One of my bolts was partially cross threaded possibly by the dealer and now it takes care to ensure it is not cross threaded before tightening.
Peter

[Alexey2357]

Hi Guys, again. After I bought new bolts I was able to close it. All was good till the time when we went on a trip when I had to replace the wheel.
After that I used zip ties to hold the cover. I looked the thread inside the bolt whole and it looks like there's no thread. The thread on bolts looks ideal but I still can not close it.
Went to buning to find a long bolt with a nut to replace. I found that the length of the bolt which is possible to screw into a nut should be minimum 160mm in length, but to be on safe side I think 170mm. will be better. I did not find in bunnings a bolt m10 which has length more then 150mm.

Thinking to buy https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001163253744.html
The only thing I don't like is that time to deliver I need this urgently.

I see 3 potential solutions.

1) Take 170mm M10 bolt with a nut. Weld to one of the 6 nut's sides a metal bar 3-4 cm in length and 5x5mm. So that nut would not rotate behaind M12 whole nut.

2) Weld nut in front of the M12 whole nut. So I can use either original bol or any other bold. The original bolt kind good, but I don't like that somebody can use ratched gun or car wheel wrench applying to much torque and breaking the thread. The other problem is that it seems not easy to properly set the orientation of the nut so that bolt will get correctly without damaging thread.

3) Weld a metal round thing with a whole for M12, similar to nut option the only difference that I close the cover and take tap and through the door try to make a a thread in that whole. This way I kinda make better nut orientation. But this seems well overcomplicated. I don't think it would be possible to make a thread with tap in a whole through the door.

The first one seems easier the other 2, the downside you need to have a wrench for the bolt you're using. What do you think?

[Alexey2357]

Finally I did this, very happy that nobody won't break it with any ratched gun.

Done. it was simpler then I thought. I went and I bought threaded stick M10 $4.60 for 1m with a pich 1.5mm, washers & wheel nuts. total was $14, but if I won't take extra hexagon nuts & washers it would be less then $10.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Hutheu4kgUCAh3Hv9

Using angle grinder cutted 2 pieces 170mm & 180mm. I think 180mm is better as it is easier to screw wheel nut. Here's how it looks

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ChG8JtLLtzwTZjWU9