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Rear Left Shock absorber loose on top.

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  • OkiMatt
    Junior Member
    • Oct 2019
    • 4
    • Okinawa

    Rear Left Shock absorber loose on top.

    I joined this forum because I bought a used 1998 Pajero here in Okinawa. Since we bought the vehicle I have heard a knocking on the left rear of the vehicle.



    Below is a picture of the actuator and the top of the left shock. When pressing down on the vehicle I would hear a knocking noise, I realized it is the Stud pin hitting the frame of the vehicle. Also it is severely bent and in the manual it states to be sure not to bend it. I can push the shock in a bit and it slowly comes back to this position. MY question, is the shock bad or device to keep the shock secure bad? Or is the actuator supposed to keep the shock secure?









    Here is the other side for reference.




    Thank you.
    Last edited by OkiMatt; 04-11-19, 03:11 PM.
  • old Jack
    Regular
    • Jun 2011
    • 11609
    • Adelaide, South Australia.

    #2
    Hi Matt,

    Well the posting of the photos did not work.

    3 things happen to cause the top pin to be loose in the mount.

    1. Nut is loose, normally caused by the sleeve shoulder in the bush being worn.
    2. Pin is worn, caused by letting the above occur over a period of time.
    3. Top mount hole is elongated, caused by both of the above.

    If the pin is only slightly worn and the hole is sightly elongated you can sometimes cut a piece of fuel hose that is the same inside diameter as the pin diameter, cut it slightly longer than the height of the rubber bushes. Slide the lower steel washer on the pin, then the fuel hose over the pin, then the lower rubber bush over the fuel hose. Fit the shocker to the mount so the section of the pin covered by the fuel hose is through the top mount. Slide the top rubber bush over the fuel hose and the install the steel washer and nut.

    As you tighten the nut the fuel hose will compress and fill the void between the worn pin and the elongated hole in the top mount.

    If the pin diameter is worn by more than 25% in diameter then best to replace the shocker. You really do not want the pin breaking whilst driving!

    EDIT;
    I can see the photos now.

    Looks like there are the electric adjustable shockers fitted.
    Best to disassemble and check all parts.

    OJ.
    2011 PB Base White Auto, Smartbar, Cooper STMaxx LT235/85R-16,TPMS, HR TB, 3 x Bushskinz, front +40mm Dobinson , rear +50mm EHDVR Lovells, Dobinson MT struts and shockers, Peddars 5899 cone springs, Windcheater rack, GME UHF, Custom alloy drawer system inc. 30lt Engel & 2 x 30 AH LiFePo batteries + elec controls, Tailgate hi-lift/long struts, Phillips +100 LB & HB, Lightforce 20" single row driving beam LED lightbar, Scanguage II.
    MM4x4 Auto Mate, Serial No 1 .

    Comment

    • Drewan
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2017
      • 284
      • Adelaide

      #3
      I would just bin them and put civilized shocks on.
      Over capitalized NK.I'm running out of things to add to it it died , now a SWB NJ with all the good stuff from the NK on it .

      Comment

      • OkiMatt
        Junior Member
        • Oct 2019
        • 4
        • Okinawa

        #4
        Originally posted by Drewan View Post
        I would just bin them and put civilized shocks on.

        By civilized shocks you mean just replace them with non-adjustable shocks?

        Comment

        • OkiMatt
          Junior Member
          • Oct 2019
          • 4
          • Okinawa

          #5
          I also think the actuators don't work because when I change the setting between soft, medium and hard I do not hear anything. Looking on other threads they should make some noise changing between settings.

          Comment

          • NJV6
            Valued Member
            • Sep 2010
            • 606
            • New Zealand

            #6
            You need to remove the top piece which is the small adjustment motor. There are 2 small bolts that hold it on.

            Then there is a lock nut that holds the frame for the motor on so remove that. You will need 2 spanners for this job.

            Then tighten the lower nut to compress the bush again, or identify why it is sitting loose, maybe the bush below the top mount is no good?
            1994 NJ SWB, 3.5 Manual, 285/75/16 Deegan 38s MT, 25mm body lift, Twin ARB air lockers, XD9000 winch, custom bar.
            1991 NH LWB, 3.9 V8, trayback, solid front axle, Toyota hi mount winch
            2011 NT GLX DiD, 3.2 Manual, 285/65/17 Falken Wildpeak AT3W, SPV EGR, Lovells SD rear, HD front, Bilsteins, Custom underbody protection, Safari Snorkel, JTig intercooler and loads of zip ties in the dash...

            Comment

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