Traction Control NS vs NX

[pfgrobler]

It looks like the Pajero Sport traction control is very good, which made me wonder if there has been any updates to the traction control programs between the NS and NX ?

Do the traction control on the NW/NX still overheat when using for extended periods ?

[Hatto]

I have had it happen to me once in my NW. Didn't really cause me any problems as at that time I was pretty much stuck, so when I heard the beeps I decided to call it a failed attempt and go for a snatch recovery.

[gen1]

My NX is used as intended around the high country regularly. The traction control works brilliantly, but it will work hard for maybe 15 seconds before it overheats and stops working. I overcome this by switching on the rear locker on steep ascents which disables the traction control and allows it to cool down for when I really need it.

[TC.Barky]

NW here, have never had it overheat but haven't done many clay uphills in this car and I take it slowly in the high country so it's rarely operating continuously for more than a couple seconds in short bursts. Comes on nearly instantly, have been on trips with older pajeros and seems to much quicker to react and generally more effective - this was definitely vs gen3 and from memory NS as well.

[Axis]

NW here, have never had it overheat but haven't done many clay uphills in this car and I take it slowly in the high country so it's rarely operating continuously for more than a couple seconds in short bursts. Comes on nearly instantly, have been on trips with older pajeros and seems to much quicker to react and generally more effective - this was definitely vs gen3 and from memory NS as well.

I find my manual NS kicks in traction control pretty quickly. Was up around Walhalla last weekend and had it overheat on one long loose climb on Fultons track. There were another 2 climbs either on Fultons or Fultons Creek that it started beeping at me. Compared to a mates MN Triton the traction control is very sensitive.

[kiwi1973]

I haven't driven a NT through NX to compare, but my NS auto TC performs extremely well. Exhausting the capacity of the TC system has been a rare experience for me so far, yet is something that concerns me. Really wouldn't be a great outcome to lose TC half way up a climb that really needed it. This is why I'm currently in the process of installing an E Locker in the front diff. I'm hopeful that having a locker on one axle will have the effect of increasing the reserve capacity of the TC system. I got the diff back today with the locker installed and plan to reinstall in the car tomorrow. I'll be posting some comments on how it all performs when I've had the chance to test it.

[Benji]

Our NT has the rear diff lock, have done the TC mod and on several steep climbs it's beeped and even flat lined, it gives up too quickly.

Ben

[razor]

I've just had my NS go in to Mitsubishi for the airbag recalls. I asked them to check for an update for the traction control ecu and they came back saying there isn't any changes

[kiwi1973]

Our NT has the rear diff lock, have done the TC mod and on several steep climbs it's beeped and even flat lined, it gives up too quickly.

Ben

I'm hopeful that I'll achieve better results by having the diff lock in the front diff, working in conjunction with the traction control. The front wheels will lift a lot more than the rear during a steep loose climb - this due to more weight over the rear axle and longer rear control arms with more wheel travel in the rear. Additionally, if/when TC does give up the Pajero should keep climbing more effectively with the front diff lock than a rear.

[JoshF]

I would have thought that when the TC overheats you just become and open diff 4WD rather than a disabled 4WD, you can still keep progressing, if it is possible to do so

[kiwi1973]

I would have thought that when the TC overheats you just become and open diff 4WD rather than a disabled 4WD, you can still keep progressing, if it is possible to do so

Correct - in non cross axled situations you'll continue. The issue is that much of this discussion is aimed at situations when you're attempting an obstacle or climb etc that requires more than open diffs can accomplish.

[old Jack]

All effective traction control systems have a limited operating capacity over a certain period of time, this is because there is a small electric motor that drives the hydraulic pump that provides the hydraulic pressure. The ASCTC ECU detects wheel spin, by comparing the speed of all wheel sensors and then opens a valve to the brakes on the wheel that is spinning until the wheel speed is reduced. If the TC is system is pushed too hard for too long then the electric motor gets hot and its temperature is monitored by the ASTC ECU, which then gives the driver a warning beep followed by a continuous warning before the system shuts down to allow the motor to cool down. This is something people do not realise or wont to accept. To get more TC capacity you need a bigger motor or a engine driven hydraulic pump.

However you can conserve the TC capacity by changing the way you drive to reduce the need for long periods of traction control operation. Have off road tyres that are well deflated, choose your driving line more carefully, if you have a RDL engage it, when the the system starts beeping or you detect wheel spin then ease off the accelerator a little.

The Pajero TC system is very good, it makes an average driver look good, a skilled driver should be aiming to drive in are manner that requires less reliance on TC so it has operating capacity when you really need it.

OJ.

[Hatto]

Well said OJ! Couldn't agree more.

[Kumabear]

My experience is the same as OJ

TC is extremely effective, only once have I had it beeping on a very long steep shale hill in the vic high country this was after nearly 45 seconds of continuous operation and even then didn't completely die and I continued on with the rear locker (TC mod). I really should have gone up maybe 2km/h faster and 1 gear higher then I wouldn't have had half as much wheel spin.

I find as long as I am deflated correctly (i personally run at 22-25 psi depending on conditions on the tracks. And as long as I accurately estimate a good speed to start my climb then its all good.

I have learned to be a bit less timid, its quite shocking how much 2kmh speed increase (as long as it will still be safe) when you start your climb helps with reducing the amount of torque you need to apply which greatly lessens wheel spin on low traction surfaces. As slow as possible and as fast as necessary being the catch phrase, I just never really realised how big a difference a very small increase in climb speed makes.

Unfortunately I had to learn this because the last 6 times ive gone out it has rained and I refuse to call off my day just because it rains unless its going to be dangerous.

[pauld]

Tyre pressures make a huge difference, just did 3 days in High Country at 18 psi, TC system with diff lock (mod) needed but never close to timing out